Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » LASS

Best place to buy a new lcd and glass I would like to be prepared just in case.

I’m in the USA

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So i did a classic noob move and mixed the green resin which comes with the printer with aqua blue thinking it would be fine. Tried to print on the same green settings, no dice. Any tips to get this to print? Or am I doomed? # mixgate

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Solved the heating problem! ??‍♂️ This probably looks more dangerous than it is....

Also was there a sticky for where to buy LCDs already attached to the glass?

Broke 1 lcd and messed up 2 pieces of glass from theFEPshop :/ not a fun night.
Luckily the advice was to have a backup!

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Folks may remember that, about a week ago, I posted a horrendous print that I thought was due to uncontrolled z-wobble. As well as writing in to the group, I also put in a service ticket.

After a day and a half, I figured out the problem, and returned my printer to its prior performance - it wobbles more than it should, but I'm able to use the parts if I sand them.

After a couple of days, I heard back from Anycubic - since I hadn't heard from them right off, I figured that the request had gone missing, but I was wrong. I decided to keep moving forward with the service ticket and see if they can get the wobble completely straightened out.

If their suggestions don't completely eliminate the wobble, I'll get into the fixes on the Photonsters page, but I don't want to do that until I've seen Anycubic's take on the issue.

Their first suggestions were to lubricate the Z pillar, tighten the screws on the brass block etc., all of which I'd already done. I re-did those things, which made no difference. So, I wrote back, and got an instruction to reflash with new firmware provided with the e-mail, which I did.

The explanation is that the newer firmware lowers the speed that the stepper motor is run. It also lowered the frame refresh from 6.5 to 4.5 seconds.

But, I haven't gotten a complete print since. And, the problem finally got bad enough that I could see it - extra pixels everywhere, and vital pixels turned off. I tried a UV recognition test and, I got nothing at all - not a rectangle - nothing.

I rebooted the printer and got a normal UV test. So it was clearly a new firmware bug.

So, I've attempted to reflash with the firmware that was working and have re-started the print - it's a 14 hour print, so I'm heading to bed and I'll find out in the morning if I have parts.

As to the photo - there's supposed to be a 120mm tall column in the middle - heavily braced and with a small cross-section - that's completely missing. Everything went wrong here. As background - I massively oversupported everything, upped the exposure and lowered the z step a bit, because I'd been missing bits - as in supports that disappeared half way up the model and then reappeared higher up. (blu at 16sec .04 - which is really a bit much - the FEP is in good shape, and the glass and underside of the FEP are clean - the machine is heated to 30c)

I not only got missing bits (like half of that ring in the middle - it had 2 layers of supports every 2mm, btw), but all that extra flash off to the left of the pic.

So, clearly it's a firmware Armageddon - I guess we'll see what happens in the morning (to be fair, the prints in the foreground and background might be OK under all the extra crap, but I'm frazzled and am not going to check them out until tomorrow.

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Somehow resin got under my vat. I am having trouble scraping it off with plastic. Will a razor glass scraper scratch my LCD protector?

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Hello all, I'm after some help with my Photon. Ive just replaced the LCD screen and top glass with a one from the FEP shop and noticed that when the machine is on the UV LED lamp is lit all the time, looks dim as the LCD is black, I didn't notice this with the original screen is it normal?

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I'm curious about the interface between the FEP film and the model, where the rubber hits the road so to speak. The film seems like a compromise from the ideal. The ideal would seem to be a rigid perfectly non stick surface rather than a flexible one, unless a slight flexibility helps the layer un-stick and move away from the film. I have an idea to take a thin tempered glass screen protector the size of the vat, place the vat with FEP film on top of it, and literally glue the FEP film to the thin glass using an optically clear UV curable glue. So the result would be a lamination of a very thin glass screen protector and FEP film. The film should then not stretch or wear as bad, and could possibly periodically be treated with teflon spray or Neverwet or another superhydrophobic coating. I have ordered a spare vat to experiment with. Has anyone here tried re-lubricating the film, or does it just stretch out before losing it's non-stick properties?

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Mixed glass fibers into resin to make it stronger and more dimensionally stable.

One issue is that the glass is more dense than the resin, so much of it settled to the bottom. What was left made the part about 10 percent stronger, which was not enough to be worth it. If anyone has a Form-2 with rigid resin, it would be great if you could print the test part so I had something to shoot for.

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Hello people I have a problem, in the last impressions were not printed well because the brackets were released above all on one side, after several impressions I realized that the glass is broken, I do not know if it will have something to do but I will also have to repair it, do you know where to get it? Thank you.

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Would any one be interested in a brand new LCD and front glass protector? UK residents only.

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