Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » CNC

Anyone get a bad respiratory infection after starting printing with a resin printer? Suddenly I got really sick just about a week after starting printing. Coincidence?

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Can we make manual program of part like in CNC milling machine?

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Hi all, new in the group here :)
Going to receive the Photon mext week, thought it could be useful to get some information in advance :)
About me, I have a >20 years experience with CNC tools, around one year ago I bought a FDM printer and now moving to resin :)

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And so it starts so if I gauge this against setting up and using the filament 3D printer for the first time this photon was 90% faster to set up leveling the bed is almost the same as a filament printer but the steps are so many fewer and it's so much easier. If you already understood how to use this printer it would take you no more than 15 minutes to pull it out of the box set it up and start your first print.
Now I'm new to printing so don't take my word as gospel but at the rate of printing that a resin printer can do I can see why they're highly valued.
And just like every tool has its job I just don't think in my field I would own just a resin printer, I would have to use it in concert with a filament printer. And by the time I'm done it will go into CNC and laser engraving as I can put all four of those together for one project probably many times over.

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Hello guys. I recently purchased my anycubic photon printer. I placed it in an airy area, so as not to have problems with the resin vapors. But after printing, I realized that the resin was hardening very fast. I could hardly recover part of the resin, and the valt was difficult to clean. I did a test, and at the place I believe it has a lot of light, because I put a little resin on the table, and it hardens quickly. Does anyone have any tips to help me? Would it be that if I switch the printer to a dark place with less incidence of sunlight getting better?

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Don't kill me for this, nor poor resin over me and cover me with feathers ? , but I don’t own a photon nor any other 3d printer. I own a CNC.
Reading all the stuff here, is getting me confused should I buy one or not. Some posts let me think yeah do it, others tell me don't touch.

It’s all about what you get for the buck no? Can I go wrong with it?
I just need to print tiny parts for my hobby, accuracy is important but there is a workaround by making adjustments in the slicer.

Here is an example of a part that I want to print. The part was printed for me in a print shop on a form2 in but 4k for a printer no I can't be asked to pay that amount. The ruler is in mm btw.

Is the photon capable of printing this stuff? Yesterday I discovered the Phrozen Shuffle looks more stable on the Z, is that one any good?

Yeah you can clearly tell I’m in the woods here, can someone give me advice here. It will be my own decision so no problem if it does not work out for me, just point me in the right direction please.

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Probably not a fair comparison - colour etc and photo limitations, should probably spray all in primer first: L->R...
1) Photon ? 50microns
2) i3 Mega ? 50/60 microns
3) Wanhao i3 mini clone (Aldi) (1st 3d printer)
3d experience I think is <1 mth. Liked the Wanhao clone and bought the other 2 last week. Still having trouble with the leveling of the i3 bed. But there is obviously a distinct difference in quality between the Photon and the 2)/3). 2 and 3 very similar, and although apparently i3 mega apparently able to do 50microns, I don't think I can see very much difference between i3 and Wanhao. Just lots more threads. Could be that I can't get the fine bed levelling with the i3 at the moment. There were a lot of failed half prints and the filament that the i3 came with kept snapping and jamming, had to change to the Aldi grey filament before I could print this.
Wanhao also has it's limitations, the magnetic base, not heated, would warp on bigger projects, and even with glue stick there's still warping.

In summary, Photon wins hands down and for fine scale, will be my go to machine. But have to still work on my support beam creation etc. because I haven't got the perfect print yet.

(Shaman thanks to Filippo Giovannini: CrossLances)

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going through my messages, heaps of "XXX wants to connect" messages about fixing the stepper coupler/mount eccentricity. I simply dont have time as I have many many messages from girls in my neighbourhood that want to connect with me and will show me "bobs and vagene" for just my credit card details.. priorities..

1. you probably don't need to do this, its more likely you have not leveled properly or your FEP is loose. you will know you need to do this, if no matter how much lube you add you have a persistent, regular grinding noise from machine even after tightening/loosening the travel chuck and/or you can visible see eccentric motion at the bottom of the lead screw.

2. To find out if you need to do this, buy a dial gauge, any CNC supplier, I have a few, I used the magnetic mount one and ran it against my lead screw, even for experienced machinists taking a reading from a lead screw is tricky because , well, its not a cylinder, its a screw. If you spent enough on your dial gauge (costs more than the photon), you can read max and min deviation from the edges of the rail.

3. If you are cheap (you bought a photon, the cheapest printer you could find, you ARE cheap, you pick flowers from the neighbors yard instead of buying for your wife, and you are reading this from a linux computer..), then you can simply rest a block against the lead screw and see if the block moves at all while turning the lead screw.

4. If you have eccentric motion, then, and ONLY then, remove the stepper and its coupler (the thingomajoozit that mounts the stepper to the photon. cover your screen, use a spindle (drillamajoozit) to open the holes in the photon by an additional 0.1mm (deviation was ~70um in mine) and remount loosely. hand tighten the bolts allowing some slip. spin the lead screw by software with your measuring tool in place. use a light object (i used the back of a kitchen knife) to tap left/right or front/back as required, until you have sub 10um deviation (read point about how hard it is to read deviation on a lead screw)

5. lock down screws another 1/4 turn, repeat point 4, most likely you moved it while tightening.. rinse repeat, then lock it down hard.

6. Bonus info: If your lead screw has yaw/pitch compared to the rail, raid your wife's pantry for aluminium foil, for the Americans, that is pronounced A as in cat, lew as in in lieu, mi as in me, ni as in the knights that say NI!, um as in yoom. Learn to pronounce it properly, you are butchering the queens English.
Now. assuming your lead screw is not bent (mine was, took a mallet to it, whole different measurement saga, worth checking before doing anything else from here on), measure the left and right extremes of the top of the lead screw to the left and right of the rail, loosen the rail assembly or the stepper, your choice, and fold some aluminium under the opposite side of the worst error, re-tighten, remeasure, add more or less AL until you get max deviation under 50um top to bottom.

HTH.

(all the CNC guys are going "ahhhh same as tramming a 4th axis, ya, kinda. )

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May remember this print, did in maroon on the photon and grey on the phrozen. I also cnc cut to wax and cast, one of my guys at work liked it so much he took the STL and cut me a massive one in wood on his CNC!

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I'm looking for a GREAT Halloween print. We want to use it for social media, if you have one, we will print it, cast it, and then send you the cleaned up casting to keep for free (in brass/bronze etc).

Message me please.

Video unrelated, it was a wax CNC and a printed parts, but we well, the halloween one was.. it was ugly..

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