Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Been out since January ;-)

Been in isolation since January?

i just realised i had 2 versions installed been usng an old version icon on desktop different install to the one i called up on search bar ,. sigh.

Check and make sure you the same exact settings on each version of chitu

Well I think I found the problem! Resin leaked all over my screen. Soaked in denatured alcohol for a few minutes then took a razor scraper to it carefully.
Fep didn't show signs of leaking through a water test but I'm not taking chances. Replaced It.

I had similar this week. Prints started sticking suddenly and found resin had creeped under. Cleaned it all and retried but had the same issue.

Got new FEP, tried that and resolved it straight away.

Ya my prints came out a ton better. Print failed today. Gonna post about it. Supported elbow didn't print propperly

YOU THOUGHT YOUR FIRST TEST WOULD BE THE CUBE BUT IT WAS I, DIO

Curious, what exposure time did you use for the plain black?

Michael Pescuma 10 on plain black, 15 on eco

Chris Kouvelis Interesting.. thanks :) I have a bottle I haven't opened yet and was curious what kind of times it would require.

stl? :>

That cat is cool as hell. ?

Michal Powierza it's on cults3d, cat meme

**D&D monster sexy walks towards your group**

I took a moment to google for you:

03 and 04 are absolutely identical according to the data sheets, they only differ in the connection cable (for the 04 there is a 90 ° adapter, then this also fits):

This works:

Bernhard Redlich thanks Bernhard

Bernhard Redlich my lcd screen got dead pixels. Waiting for Anycubic to send me a replacement, but it had being almost 3 weeks and shipping still not reach me. So thinking to get a spare one for future.

Afraid I cannot help with settings, but you should probably post which version of the Photon this is for as e.g. S model typically has shorter exposure times than original

Did you put your printer in test mode?

I did not put it into any kind of testmode. Have i misread it? I didnt even know there was one on the Photon S

Sascha Berlin okay so the way this file is suppost to work is there is a mode that changes the exposure time for each section of the file in 2 second increments. So section one will have 2 seconds of exposure while section 2 will have 4 and so on. This way you can see which is the best time of exposure

yeah, that was my assumption, but it still looks very off since no area is somewhat decent. I was wondering if i did something horribly wrong when setting it up

Sascha Berlin i got my source files elsewhere so ill test this one for ya really quick and see what i can find out

Sascha Berlin Well, I am unable to print this particular file as I have the OG photon and can't print .pws files, So I will link to the test I used and maybe that might help you out.

https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

If unfamiliar with github, there is a green box that says clone or download in the middle right of the screen.

Dustin Cole i sadly can not use said file for the newer photon, thats why i resorted to this one. I didnt really find much else in the way rerf testing for the photon s. But thanks for trying!

Sascha Berlin does your photon only print using .pws files?

no, but i heard that both photons use incompatible rerf variants

Sascha Berlin I may be wrong but the photon S does have a stronger light so essentially it just prints faster due to being able to cure fully at a lower exposure time. So for my photon it may take 8-10 seconds for the elegoo grey to cure, where your will take 5-6 seconds. The Rerf should still be able to show you where your resin sweet spot is regardless of machine.

Does this test work on the newer Fauxtons? I watched the youtube videos and didn't see the .gcode files on my thumbdrive when I went to check.

Christopher Barton thats at elsat what i hoped. I mean the areas on each test are different in my case, just not stellar quality. Maybe its the resin not being able to at that resolution.

Why would you say you're not getting good results? #3 - #4 on first picture look entirely decent. It's almost hitting the limits of the printer.

Go with 6 seconds

on which one? first, second or third picture?

i compared them to the original file, not knowing what to expect

The right column is all out of 50 micron range that the photon could *theoretically* achieve. Since this is an lcd sla there is always going to be some light scattering so even a 50 micron pixel will cure to more than 50 microns. The resolution you're getting here between #2 - #4 is about 150 microns, which is pretty much perfect for this kind of a printer. If you need better you'd have to look at $3000+ laser slas.

Sascha Berlin The first one. #2 give you best negative (lowered) detail but is lacking a bit of positive (raised) detail. I'd go with #3 (7s) or go a bit more heavy with supports with 6s. I'm assuming the first one is at 50 micron layers? Try to do another test with lower exposure for shallower layers as they need less time to cure.

Mi Ha first one is 50, yeah. I'll just try with that! What would the advantage of going below 50 be then? (looking at your other comment as well) I have been printing at 40 most of the time but some detail looked a bit off (overexposure i guess, printed at 9/10 secs)

i would print with those settings now using x4 AA, does that make sense?

Sascha Berlin You can linearly extrapolate for shallower layers and get pretty close. If 6s is good at 50 microns, then 4s will (most likely) work for 30 micron and 3s will be ok for 20 microns.

Those settings look good to me. AA is up to you, 4x is plenty.

Ah sorry, missed the question about the advantages. Smaller layers will give you better resolution in the Z axis (straight up), but the bigger advantage (for me at least) is that you can get a lot closer to horizontal with the plate and not have any bridging issues. You can see here: https://github.com/....../temp/slice_angles-van_kesteren.jpg how the layer height impacts critical angle (the angle where you'd need to add supports)

Mi Ha thanks for all the nice intel :) i will try it out! have a good night

Have you tried ChiChuBox?

Yes but there is no settings for the Zero Ryan sadly

Just go into Chitubox setting and click on add printer. Go to other and select default 1. Type in your resolution and the bed size and rename the profile to a name of your choice.

lol you think 8gb and a 1gb gpu is TOO powerful?! nah man something is likely wrong within your system. do you do yearly os resets? i find not doing so will usually result in issue like this. also i recomend chitubox and prusa slicer over the included software. anycubic's software is just a rip-off version of chitubox with less functionality. even if you dont see settings for your printer, you can enter then manually easily.

Lol, I thought it was cheese

I had something similar and what I discovered was that a job would complete but then the next would fail because of resin left on the fep from the successful one. Not 100% cured but enough to make it fail.

Turned out the LCD was failing and was Curing a 'shadow' on the fep between layers when it should have been dark.

Changed the screen and it was fixed, improvement in print quality too!

That might be it. I've also emptied the vat and the fep looked fine. This is the exposure test

I think my screen failed. I turned it off and back on again and then it was acting normal...? That's so weird

Benjamin Matthew Harding mine looked fine on the exposure test but it was clesrly letting UV through when it shouldn't have.

Hmmm.. what's weird for me is it wasn't doing any uv light and then after turning it off and back on, it showed up again. If this doesn't print then I'll have to get a new screen for sure

If your screen is old (mine was 14 months old with no dead areas) you may be best doing it anyway, the improvement in print quality very noticeable!

It's only 3.5 months old, as I got it for a Christmas gift for myself.

Hmmmm, there is no saying how long each one lasts. I've heard of people having them degrade in that time though. I was just lucky.

Dang. Well thanks for your advice. We'll see what happens

Benjamin Matthew Harding Good luck,

It'd look good if a hammer and sickle were in the star haha

It looks heavily overexposed to me

That was my thought as well, this one was exposed at 80s bottom and 8s normal, and seemed horrible underexposed. I guess I’ll split the difference

100% I don’t know who dude was that put 18 seconds on “the sheet” but 7-8 seconds is plenty

Thats the whole purpose of a calibration test, find the sweet spot!