Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » TIP

So I've just got the Photon S and I've leveled the bed a couple times but each time I keep getting this issue with prints. I'm using the default setting to try to print a model with the standard green they ship it with. Then I tried the settings here

https://docs.google.com/…/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhc…/htmlview…

So is it because I'm just leveling it wrong and should just use this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3096818 or does anyone have any tips for it?

翻譯年糕

So I’m throwing his out there in case in helps somebody else. I’ve had my photon for a few months now and even bought a second one about a month later. It hasn’t been without frusteration. I’d have one machine tip top and the other NEVER getting a fully successful print. I’ve also noticed that my resin times seemed to always take longer than suggested time. Well yesterday while changing the fep on both my machines, I noticed that the bottoms of the screws stick out slightly past the aluminum fep holder on the underside, causeing them to in some case stick past the vat depending on how tight you screw it in. Well I had never noticed this before and thought perhaps it’s the reason I’ve had failed prints and resting underexposure sometimes even at doubly the times suggested. If the fep isn’t pressing directly against your LCD screen, no amount of leveling is going to solve that issue. So people, please take this advice. If your struggling to get consistently good prints and feel like your bed is level, check the bottom side of your vat to make sure the screws aren’t sticking out past the fep film...........I am getting nothing but amazing prints since I did this (and yes it is brand new fep but I’ve still had fails on new fep before. I truly think this was the cause of all y issues since day 1.

翻譯年糕

anyone got a good tip for cleaning areas where supports material was removed or after sanding? ive got white areas and want to clean it back to the nice transparent green

翻譯年糕

Like Icarus I might have flown too close to the sun....

Second print, I saw the peeling from the plate of the larger piece but decided to let the two smaller ones finish before ending the print. Any tips as to where I might have gone wrong?
I know I did this part backwards, I made the supports in Chitubox but could not figure out how to slice it with Chitu. I sliced the .stl made by chitubox with the anycubic software. (I wanted to keep the hollow and holes, supports seemed good as well)
I followed the resin settings for ellgoo grey in the spreadsheet.

翻譯年糕

Ok All you new Phontonsters out there here's a tip that's not in the manual (You did read the manual, right?)

If you mess up an exposure setting in your slice It's not too late.

Just hit the cog Icon in the menu and fiddle with the settings (you need to be quick, do it while the plate is on it's way up for maximum time.)

And hey presto settings fixed even though it was already printing and in g code form.

That is all. Now go make some cool stuff.

翻譯年糕

Give me your Siraya Blu post processing and curing tips Give me your Siraya Blu post processing and curing tips 翻譯年糕

Hello resin lovers!

I recently got my photon S and started to do some test prints. Though for some reason my prints always cones out smaller than the original size that it was sliced. Any tips and guidelines for a new comer? Thank you in advance!

Settings:
Layer = .05
Exposure = 5.5
Offtime = 1
Bottom exp = 50
Bottom lay = 8

翻譯年糕

Hey everybody!

Long post incoming, so TL;DR : What affects print precision/detail level and how to optimize for as close to pixel-perfect as possible?

I've recently gotten an Anycubic Photon S for printing minis and general learning.

Testprinting the resin test (only one part, sliced multiple times with different exposure times since I have the S, 0.02 layer height, from 2s to 8s expsoure, anycubic green) has resulted in underwhelming precision for me. neighboring features merge together heavily, with the least merging at 4s exposure, at merging below 0.3mm at the cost of features < 3px not printing/failing to print over multiple layers. If I want those to show up I have to go up to 8s at which point details merge at distances < 0.7mm. (non-free standing details blend together totally, so rivets and stuff need to be bigger than 1mm to even look like rivets and not just be bumps) small details are also (of course) not at all their width in px anymore but heavily smoothed and about 0.3mm wider in all directions.

I've also tried the same procedure with elegoo black (thinking it might be diffusion and black absorbs light right??) which performs even worse, only starting to show 1px detail at 12s.

I've inspected all the different testprints under a microscope, so It's not just that the material is hiding the detail. I also understand that I'm doing the equivalent of pixel-peeping by now, but it's more about principle and learning at this point^^

now to optimization:

as far as I can tell, the points I can optimize are: the resin, the timings, temperature, the layer height, the FEP thickness, -clarity and tension and leveling of the build platform.

I've read through as many resin suggestions as I could find and Phrozen ABS Like Grey seems to be a very good performer, as well as MiniQ LCD-5400s (post by Boon Kheng Tang showing it of a few weeks ago) the latter being much more expensive for me. Apart from that I've been hearing that a lot of people are happy with anycubic green, so I'm not quite sure how much of a factor this is.

my room temp is relatively low, about 18c. which is out of the sweet spot if I'm not mistaken. Is that much of an Issue?

timing test are very slow on the S right now, since we can't use the resin test that tests multiple timings at once yet.
What would need to be done to make that compatible with the photon S?

I tried a few prints with a layer height of 0.01mm, but got the same blended results. My thinking was that with reducing the layer curing time, I could theoretically reduce the amount of resin that cures through scattered light, but that seems to be the wrong Idea of how the process works. Do you guys generally get more detail with more cubic voxels? (eg 0.05mm layer height)

I've replaced the FEP that was shipped with the photon since it looked relatively scratched and cloudy to me already. Since I had no reference to what an actually bad film looks like, I replaced a perfectly good one and nothing changed... Does anybody have experience with thinner films? Maybe they diffuse the light less between LCD and resin? (also is that even an Issue?). The film is tensioned to 350khz.

build platform is as level as I can get it. also that should be a non-issue after the base sticks, right?

Sorry for this extremely long post. I'm hoping that you can help me understand how the process works in as much detail as possible, hopefully to write a comprehensive optimization and recommendation guide and get the best possible prints for detail out of the anycubic. The possibility is there, especially with antialiasing, for reealy nice prints with this machine, I just can't get it there without help...

翻譯年糕

I really didn't want to bug the group so early in ownership, but I've read/search the group repeatedly, and can't find a solution. I've been trying to create replacement ceramic Christmas tree toppers. I've got the base supports fine. However, I can not get the bottom two tips to take hold.

When I tried ChiTuBox, adding supports (Even using the settings by the video that's recommended here frequently with the sphere attaching points), ChiTuBox leaves 4 layers of empty space between the top of the support and the arm. I moved up higher, making the point of the star almost to the bottom of the sphere. Still leaves 4 empty layers between the support and where the star point starts (Leaving a large crosssection by that point). The bottom is fine, so it seems like something like the fine point. ChiTuBox output throws Photon File Validator for an absolute fit as well, leaving MANY layers with rogue pixels going upwards.

I changed back to the Anycubic slicer, and did the same thing, except I just left defaults. I used a heavy support middle of the base of the star, then one for each of the points, adding some medium supports higher to help. Export, and Photon File Validator gives no errors. However, it never transitions from the point of the support to the star, even with the point of the star buried decently into the support.

I'm including photos of my last attempt. I forgot to take a picture of it with the supports on, but I circled the diagram where the star points end up starting.

50um layers, calibrated my resin, levelled my bed, cleaned all surfaces, levelled bed again (Even though never had a bed level issue), cleaned glass. Nothing seems to help.

Any help would be GREAT!

翻譯年糕

So ChituPro does work and allows you to manage multiple printers. And come in Chinglish

But needs to be run in Admin Mode otherwise the Printers are not picked up

Check the Photonsters NET ui MOD that enables the use of the network card on the photon Classic

https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/permalink/1651711838306785/

翻譯年糕