Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » TIP

Hi All!
Just tried out my Photon S for the first time. So far two failed prints. :-(
Around 1cm printed, then stuck to the vat. So i cleaned, noticed the printer was in a 4 degree tilt, fixed that, and tried again. After the second print came out almost the same (around 1.5cm printed then stuck to vat), and being a technical guy, here is a question to the gurus:

I'm printing a closed cone, with tip facing the build plate, is that possible that simply this 'suction cup' shape actually functioning like one and then tears itself from the build plate?

I quickly learned how to edit the model i downloaded from thingiverse, and i added a 'breathing hole' on the side, will start with this tomorrow morning. Any ideas are appreciated.

thx!

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So I've got my first problem.

There are wierd layer lines that I cannot find any explanation for. I've been printing for about a liter perfectly. Mostly small minis but one or two medium size prints. All with no problems.

These are the largest prints I've done, the wing is the entire height of the print volume! But as you can see the base of the dragon, in the crystals, there are wierd layer artifacts.

I didn't know what the could be causing the layer issues so I though I'd print the wing go see if it would repeat the issue.

The wing is really odd, it has 4 or 5 "layer shifts" like the print head moved a bit. But it's a resin printer without a print head.

I wonder if hollowing the prints could have done something. I used a wall thickness of 1.2.
Normal layer height. One model was hollowed in Meshmixer, the dragon base. And I added a large cutout on the bottom to add supports for the crystal base.
The wing was hollowed in ChiTu box.

So far I've gotten a few suggestions which all could be contributing but nothing real definitive.

1. Bad power supply? The lifting seems to suck to the print bed so maybe it draws to much power. Don't know if this makes sense but a Reddit user said he fixed something similar with a voltage regulator. Anyone else?
2. Wobbly table? It's on a descent folding table but not the most sturdy. I don't know how this could affect the print quality.
3. Z screw binding? Maybe it just for stuck a few times. I would think this would cause other issues like the piece crashing into the build plate or something.
4. Temperature? I print in a small room. The first print, the dragon base, had a computer on and close the door so it could have gotten warm. Not the case with the wing, it printed overnight.
5. Z wobble. Pretty much ruled out as it isn't a consistent problem. At some point I might try to readjust the escentric nut but it's currently working so I'd rather not.

Thinks that about sums up where I'm at. Any tips or if someone has had a similar problem I'd love to know what you did.

Thanks for any suggestions! Really lost here.

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I am looking for a comprehensive lists of resins that specifically list shrinkage. I need to make some very small parts that also need to be as accurate as I can make them. So, shrinkage is my primary obstacle. I would prefer to limit the trial and error time of making multiple prints while adjusting the print size between iterations. If you know of a resin that has extremely low shrinkage I would like to here about too.

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I'm setting up the table where the PhotonS will live; I'm thinking of some Silicon or Teflon mat

I'm thinking Teflon would be better for resin spills but I'm not sure if the products I find will do the trick:

https://www.amazon.ca/…/…/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_807RCbVD6WBN4

Otherwise, as far as silicon goes there's this:

Silicone Baking Mat Large Food Grade Pastry Dough Rolling Mat Multipurpose for Countertop Protection, Oven Mat, Table Mat and Placemat(Blue) https://www.amazon.ca/…/…/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B37RCbCHHGJHY

What do you guyd think?

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so im getting a photon later this week, any tips i should know before i start ?

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Another successful print. ? when the hell am I gonna paint all this? Lmfao. Model from stanislav Kuznetsov patreon omnioji

Warm water vs supports? Like a knife thru butter? Lol. Great tip I saw here. glass scraper is also a great tool. Printed a base flat to the build plate was worried but was just me being paranoid, came off easily

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Ok on FDM printers the z axis is limited to the smallest microstep of the motor. The lead screw looks to be 0.5mm/rev. The motor will be stepped in fractions of a turn. This can limit the resolution due to quantization error.

For example if the microstep is 1/32 of a turn and one turn is 0.5mm so the min step is actually 0.015625 and all steps must be a multiple of this. (Nb this is an example! )

Does the photon have the same limit? What is the minimum step on the motor?

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(Sorry no pictures until I’m home this evening). The base of the test cube stuck to my build platform but the cube detached during the print. Using Anycubic Orange. And I used recommended settings from someone else who uses Orange resin in this group. Any tips ? ( Paper method used to level bed)

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Wrecked my FEP due to a print getting stuck (damn you maroone). And holy sh*tsnacks these things are way more expensive then i would have thought. Do you guys have any tips for getting cheaper FEP's? Cuz if i broke my first one after like a month i'm guessing there will be more. Also since i'm in Europe, i'd prefer it to be sent from within the EU due to the Swedish postal maffia.

Sidenote, do you use an APP or something to check the right frequency for the FEP tension?

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Looking for some tips regarding recent problematic prints or how to increase quality.

Printed nearly a full bed of minis (will post screenshot of what it looked like in slicer program for reference when I get home)... had 3/4 of them turn out alright but 1/4 of buildplate had problems.

1. 1/4 of build plate didn’t have models stick to it and instead they stuck to FEP. Two of these models near this quadrant printed incorrectly near it. One didnt print the legs of the model entirely, they layers slipped off it appeared. The print stayed upright but a few legs on that side of the model didn’t make it. I noticed that one of the models that was stuck to fep printed more layers on one side of model compared to other.

I attribute this to my buildplate needing to be tightened and releveled?

2. Layer lines yikes. Do I need to decrease my layer height to .4 or .2 to get rid of these or are these possibly worse due to build plate being off level? I was having some groaning and greased the z rod with white lithium grease

3. 1/2 up the model you see what appears to be an overexposed layer? Not sure why this happened but have a small line around all the models at this level (only green models)

4. I dumped the entire remnants of my green bottle into my clean vat and went to bed thinking “this is enough!” After I had nearly nothing left in previous print using gray and had to stressfully wait to see if print completed or ran out... well I woke up this morning and nearly 0 green left at all and thank GOD or whoever because 2 minis failed on this print it seemingly allowed enough resin to remain to complete the other models. What a fortunate failure?? Had it printed the other turtle + rider I would have easily ran out of resin and the prints would have failed about 85% complete or so I think. Not sure if anyone else had this occur but man oh man ?

5. Regarding the layer lines shown in Grey model... they don’t seem near as bad as they green. Wondering if it’s just resin settings I’m using being better or what?

6. I would like to have less layer lines showing if possible if others can give advice on how to achieve this in future prints. What’s the easiest way to hide my sins with these prints? A thicker primer or extra coats to fill in layer lines?

Green is anycubic green printed according to resin settings from spreadsheet (5.5s / 1s / 50s base layers x 8 ) .5mm layer height

Grey is anycubic grey 18s / 0s / 90s base x 8 layers

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