Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ROS

Helli!
I had a problem printing a model.
The printed wheel model is larger in diameter than the 3D model in the slicer. 3d model diameter 20mm, printed model diameter 21mm.

If you increase the size of the 3D model, the printed model will always be about 4% larger.

Printer photon S. Slicer chitubox, rezin anycubic black and green.
Has anyone come across this?

翻譯年糕

Making progress but would like some advice on the last bit. I'm printing a basic railway wagon on a Photon S with Elegoo Grey. The wagon is about 30mm x 15mm x 8m tall and the sides are around 0.75mm thick. Picture 1 was done with the original Anycubic green parameters - oops. The second was with better parameters - 0.02, 12, 3, 80, 5 and 30 degrees. It still had a collapsed point and I realised I was using light supports. I changed to medium supports with the same parameters and it is much better but there are still faint lines across the wagon which do appear to align with the support attachment points. Would people change the supports further in some way or increase the exposure time further to prevent what seems to be a level of compression? I should add I used 24 supports spread evenly which is significantly fewer than the auto support from the Photon Workshop Slicer.

翻譯年糕

I'm very new to SLA printing just bought my first anycubic photon and haven't even printed out the test cube yet. I purchased it mainly for D&D miniatures and would love to print out this frost giant. I have a few questions that need some clarification before I want to even try. I have read you want to hollow larger minis? or Should I hollow all minis? I also read that I should dig a hole to drain the resin from within the hollow miniatures. Where do you put the holes and what's the best way to fill them afterwards if its in an obvious spot? I figure in the bottom of the feet and how many holes do I dig? It also shows supports inside the hollowed miniature, do I leave those? Why a 45 degree angle on small miniatures? I purchased some 405nm uv led light rope that I'm going to make a curing box. Does leaving the piece in there too long ruin detail? The alcohol bath, is there a set time to leave the printed piece in the bath? Or just a few seconds is fine? Should I slice off the hammer and turn his torso so its not riding on the edge like that? I probably have a ton more questions but can't think of any more right now. If anyone can help answer these questions I would be eternally grateful. Just trying not to waste a ton of resin right out of the gate.
Thanks 翻譯年糕

Hey all, new to this group, as well as the anycubic photon. I’m attempting to level my bed with the Flint Read method, however the cross arm to the build plate gets caught on the vat when trying to move the z axis down, any fixes for this? Thanks in advance

翻譯年糕

Hey Everyone, I just happened across a kickstarter that looks like it has some some models. Already funded, but these are great models for anyone who likes to print miniatures.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/266656159/bestiary-3d-printable-models/description 翻譯年糕

Another nice model from Skyless Realms, monocure rapid clear and citadel paint
https://www.heroshoard.com/ec3d-skyless-realms

翻譯年糕

Has anyone ever come across stl files for basic Imaginext figures?

翻譯年糕

I really like this snail gnome model ! Model from Skyless Realms EC3D Ks. This Ks offer Tons of nice models like that and terrains
https://www.heroshoard.com/ec3d-skyless-realms

翻譯年糕

Ogre, troll, and a dragon touched kobold for Frostgrave and rpgs. All available for download on Thingiverse. 0.02 mm layer height Anycubic photon green. D20 for scale. Vallejo grey primer.

翻譯年糕

Trying a different print setting on this fingers crossed

翻譯年糕