Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 樹脂

Seeing alot of plant resin post , is that stuff great for casting ? I assume it burns out well Seeing alot of plant resin post , is that stuff great for casting ? I assume it burns out well

看到很多植物樹脂帖子, 這東西適合鑄造嗎? 我猜它燃燒得很好

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Does anyone have a better way to view the resin calibration? Maybe I'm just I've getting old but I am just not seeing anything that looks different. I've held it up to the sun. Held it at different angles, nothing. 1 & 2 looks to thin and blank. 3-6 might be ok. 7-9 looks black. 10 seems to have the most detail. Should 10 be the number I use? Any ideas?

誰有更好的方法來檢視樹脂校准? 也許我只是變老了, 但我只是沒有看到任何看起來不一樣的東西. 我一直堅持到太陽. 用不同角度持有, 沒甚麼. 1和2看起來瘦又空白. 3-6年可能沒問題. 7-9看起來黑色. 10年似乎有最詳細的. 10應該是我使用的號碼嗎? 有甚麼想法嗎?

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Trying Monocure Rapid Grey and the Exposure Finder for the first time. I am unsure how to read this.

Col 9 is the first column with a nicely formed first circle (A). Col 5 has the first negative graph (B) fully formed, in column 6 and further this graph gets eaten away. Col 8 has the most crisp positive graph (C) and col 8 is the first column with the dots on the right fully formed up until the bottom.

Using rapid grey and the Artus Fuste resin exposure table, I would expect 11-12 sec so somewhere between col 5 and 7.

第一次嘗試單一療法快速灰色和曝光器. 我不確定該怎麼讀這個.

Col 9是第一個有著良好的第一個圓圈(a)的欄目. Col 5有第一個負圖(b)完全形成, 在第6欄中, 而且這個圖表被吃掉了. Col 8擁有最脆的正圖(c), col 8是第一列, 右側的點完全形成到底部.

使用快速灰色和artus fuste樹脂曝光表, 我預計11-12秒, 所以在col 5到7. 之間.

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Thought I would share my UV box idea.

Aluminum small trash can (foot pedal operated, easy to put models in without touching the outside and potentially getting resin/IPA on it) + UV light strands and some aluminum foil for the bottom.

I do plan on printing a translucent stand on my FDM printers to bring models up to the middle section (I'll be dealing mostly with 28mm models).

Enjoy the wacky idea lol.

我想我會分享我的紫外線盒的想法.

鋁小型垃圾桶(腳踏板操作, 很容易放入模型而不接觸外部, 可能會獲得樹脂/ ipa) +紫外線和底部的鋁葉子.

我確實計劃在我的fdm印表機上列印一個半透明支架, 將模特帶到中間部分(我將主要處理28毫米型號).

享受這個奇怪的想法, 哈哈.

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Sorry, no photos... newly assembled Photon, test print lattice cube failed. Leveled the build plate per AC instructions, shook my resin (the included green), filled the vat to the line. It appears that several layers cooked properly, and then it lost adhesion to the plate & stuck to the FEP instead. Of course, I couldn't see that until it was around the 45-50% mark, so phooey. (I did NOT yet swap the AC USB stick for my own, as I forgot to purchase a spare, and I am uncharacteristically out of spare cards/USB sticks.)

It did print the base/disc to a thickness of close to 1mm before failing, then I ended up with a nice 2-D version of the cube lattice branching out from that.

I re-leveled the bed according to this video, only slightly altered from AC's official instructions. Currently trying the test print lattice cube again

So... if this fails in a similar manner, should I try the Flint Read method, or are there other common n00blet errors of which I may be guilty and should check out?

抱歉, 沒有照片... 新組裝的光子, 測試列印格立方體失敗. 按ac指示平整了構建板, 搖我的樹脂(包括綠色), 把增值稅填滿了線. 看起來好幾層烹飪得當, 然後它失去了對盤子的粘附, 反而粘在fep上. 當然, 我看不到, 直到它大約45-50 %的標記, 所以我很幽默. (我還沒有把ac usb棍子換成我自己, 因為我忘了購買備用, 而且我不尋常的卡片/ usb棍棒.) 你知道嗎?

它確實將基底/盤列印到近1毫米的厚度, 然後我最後我最後推出了一個很好的立方體格的2 d版本.

我根據這段視訊重新平平了床, 只是從ac的官方指示稍微改變. 目前正在嘗試測試列印格立方體

那麼... 如果這也失敗了, 我應該試試弗林特讀取法, 或者還有其他常見的n00blet錯誤, 我可能有罪, 應該看看?

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Just ordered my Trigorilla Photon today from Amazon.ca. Excited to enter the world of resin printing. I have 5 FDM printers but the precision of resin is mind blowing. Thanks for the add. I look forward to being a member of this group.

Any words of wisdom before i get started?

今天從亞馬遜訂購了我的三大猩猩光子. Ca. 很高興進入樹脂列印世界. 我有5台fdm印表機, 但樹脂的精確度讓人心碎. 謝謝你的加. 我期待成為這個社團的成員.

在我開始之前有任何智慧的話嗎?

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The resins I use are:

-the transparent green of anycubic that went very well and I made many pieces.

the flesh-colored resin of anycubic that I was able to print some figures

-the white resin of anycubic that I have not managed to print anything with it.

-and I have a new one that I have not tried yet which is "Siraya Blu"

I control in pictures the values that I have used lately.

and the last thing I'm trying to print.

These are the last values that I have used and that did not work for me.

我使用的樹脂是:

-任何立方體的透明綠色, 非常順利, 我做了很多碎片.

我能夠列印一些數字的任何立方體樹脂

-任何立方體的白色樹脂, 但我還沒有用它印出任何東西.

-我有一個新的, 我還沒有試過, 那就是"siraya blu"

我在圖片中控制我最近使用的值.

我最後想列印的東西.

這些是我使用過的最後一個值, 但對我沒用.

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Hey Guys, so... i have a few questions i would like for the community to help me with. Sorry it will be a bit of a long post xD.

I got my Photon this week. Here's what i did (questions come after :p ).

- Checked everything was working properly working, turned on the printer, checked if the Z-Axis was moving, if the screen was ok, etc.

- Ditched the stock PSU and USB drive (tested the PSU and its outputing the correct voltage but i ditched it anyway), im using another one i had here with the exact same specs, USB drive im now using a Kingston one.

- Disconnected the "smelling" fan from the main board to avoid the fumes from getting out and stinking up the place. (Planing to upgrade the stock led cooling fan, suggestions???)

- Checked every screw to see if everything was properly tightened (the buildplate wasnt, it would move even after tightening the grub screw).

- Checked the FEP tension with a sound analyzer, it was below 300hz... tuned it to 345-355hz.

- Applied Kapton tape to the borders of the screen (to avoid a spill going into the machine in case that happens).

- Adjusted the buildplate to be completely flat against the screen, made sure that the plate was making even pressure on the paper on all sides (front, back, left and right). After that i leveled the printer and set the new Z=0 (didnt forget to hit Home first :p ).

- Finally i heated up the resin (room temp was 19C) and started the default print file that came with the printer (photos attached).

So, now some questions.

1 - The new yellow windows, how good are they at blocking UV? The printer is not on a direct sunlight enviroment, not even daylight for that matter, but the room does have okayish lighting (there is no light directly above the printer), i am safe to assume resin wont cure while inside? I know i can cover up the printer but im trying to understand if its really necessary.

2 - Do you guys filter the resin and clean the vat after every print? I saw some people mentioning it... but to be completely honest i've never done that with my other printer, well... my other printer doesnt have the leaking risk this one has... So... what do you guys do?

3 - Firmware... my printer came with version 4.2.3... I dont see that in Anycubic site, anyone has the changelog for this fw? Just curious.

4 - Recommendations for resin, im looking for high detail. Impact resistance is not really important right now (Anycubic resins, how do they stack up against the competition?)

5 - Which one is better for the screen to last more? Slow or fast resins?

And for now thats it! Thanks guys...one of the reasons i got the Photon was for this awesome community =)

嘿, 夥計們, 所以... 我有幾個問題想讓社羣幫我解決. 抱歉, 這將是一個漫長的帖子xd.

我這周得到了我的光子. 這就是我所做的(問題之後: p).

-檢查一切正常運作, 開啟印表機, 檢查z軸是否移動, 螢幕是否正常等等.

-丟棄了存貨psu和usb驅動器(測試psu及其輸出正確的電壓, 但我還是拋棄了它), 我在這裡使用了另一個, usb驅動器, usb驅動器現在使用金斯敦.

-從主板上斷開"聞"風扇, 以避免煙霧出來, 讓地方臭. (計劃升級庫存led冷卻風扇, 建議???)

-檢查了每個螺絲, 看一切是否都收緊了(建築板沒有, 甚至在收緊後也會移動).

-用音效分析儀檢查了fep緊張, 低於300 hz... 調到345-355 hz.

-將kapton磁帶應用到螢幕的邊界(以防發生洩漏到機器).

-調整構建板完全平坦, 以確保板塊對紙板對紙面(前, 背面, 左和右)施加壓力. 之後, 我平平了印表機, 設定了新的z =0 (沒有忘記先打家: p).

-最後我加熱樹脂(房間溫度為19 c), 並啓動了印表機的預設列印檔案(照片附後).

所以, 現在有一些問題.

1-新的黃色窗戶, 阻擋紫外線有多好? 印表機不在直接陽光環境上, 連白天也沒有, 但房間確實有okayish照明(印表機上方沒有光), 我可以安全地假設樹脂治癒嗎? 我知道我可以掩飾印表機, 但我試著理解是否真的有必要.

2-你們在每次列印後過濾樹脂並清理增值稅嗎? 我看到有些人提到它... 但老實說, 我從來沒有和我的另一個印表機做過, 好吧... 我的另一個印表機沒有洩漏風險... 那麼... 你們這些傢伙是甚麼? 做甚麼?

3-固件... 我的印表機有4.2.3. 版.. 我沒看到在任何立方體網站, 有人有這個fw的改裝? 只是好奇.

4-樹脂推薦, 我正在尋找詳細的細節. 現在抵御衝擊並不重要(任何立方體樹脂, 他們是如何堆積起來對抗競爭的?) 你知道嗎?

5-哪一個更好讓螢幕持續更多? 慢或快速樹脂?

現在就這樣! 謝謝大家... 我得到光子的原因之一是這個很棒的社羣=)

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I am quite frustrated with the white resin of ANYCUBIC, it makes a lot of sediment in vat. Each time you print the same part of the same slice has a different result on the same printer. I opened new botle of white resin and same sediments.

Grey Resing is better ?

我對任何立方體的白色樹脂感到沮喪, 它在增值稅中製造了很多沈積物. 每次你列印同一部分同一部分, 同一個印表機會有不同的結果. 我開啟了新的白樹脂和同樣的沈積物.

Grey resing更好?

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EDIT: Thanks everyone! The Anycubic resin I typically get won't ship to Japan via Amazon.com , but the Nova3D resin will ship to my FPO address, with Prime Shipping too!
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I Just moved to Japan from the US. Anyone have any advice or recommendations on where/how to get resin for my printer? I'm still learning the methods/issues with ordering things here. Local recommendations would be great if you know where I can buy locally! Thanks in advance!

編輯: 謝謝大家! 我通常得到的任何立方體樹脂不會通過Amazon.com運往日本, 但nova3d樹脂將運到我的fpo地址, 同時也有主要運費!
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我剛從美國搬到日本. 有人對我的印表機在哪裡/如何獲得樹脂有任何建議或建議? 我還在學習訂購東西的方法/問題. 如果你知道我在哪裡可以在當地購買, 當地推薦會很棒! 提前感謝!

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