Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 測試

Tested out the Anycubic Eco resin on a sculpt I did for a client and the result turned out better than I expected at 0.05 layer. I used the photon file validator that I saw recently on 3DPrintFarm's YouTube video and I have to say it's a life saver. I've been using Prusa slicer to build my automatic supports, then run it through that software and finally add light supports in chitubox on every island it shows me unsupported. By the end I still get warnings (ranging from 10 to 30 and between 1 to 5 pixels), which I end up not considering.

I definitely want to reduce failed prints and with the eco resin (which is so much better than the elegoo black I was using) plus the combo of Prusa slicer+chitubox+photon file validator (and loads of hours of patience) I feel I'm on the right track.

Good prints everyone!

在我為客戶做的雕塑上測試了生態樹脂, 結果比我預期的要好. 我用了最近在3 dprintfarm的youtube視訊上看到的光子檔案驗證器, 我不得不說它是一個救生者. 我一直在使用prusa slicer來建立我的自動支撐, 然後通過軟體運行, 並最終在chitubox中新增燈光支援. 到最後, 我仍然收到警告(從10到30到5畫素之間), 但最後我沒有考慮.

我絕對想要減少失敗的指紋, 用生態樹脂(比我使用的elegoo black好多)加上prusa slicer+chitubox+photon檔案驗證器(和大量的耐心)我覺得我覺得自己在正確的軌道上 "我想讓我們知道,

大家的好指紋!

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Sorry, no photos... newly assembled Photon, test print lattice cube failed. Leveled the build plate per AC instructions, shook my resin (the included green), filled the vat to the line. It appears that several layers cooked properly, and then it lost adhesion to the plate & stuck to the FEP instead. Of course, I couldn't see that until it was around the 45-50% mark, so phooey. (I did NOT yet swap the AC USB stick for my own, as I forgot to purchase a spare, and I am uncharacteristically out of spare cards/USB sticks.)

It did print the base/disc to a thickness of close to 1mm before failing, then I ended up with a nice 2-D version of the cube lattice branching out from that.

I re-leveled the bed according to this video, only slightly altered from AC's official instructions. Currently trying the test print lattice cube again

So... if this fails in a similar manner, should I try the Flint Read method, or are there other common n00blet errors of which I may be guilty and should check out?

抱歉, 沒有照片... 新組裝的光子, 測試列印格立方體失敗. 按ac指示平整了構建板, 搖我的樹脂(包括綠色), 把增值稅填滿了線. 看起來好幾層烹飪得當, 然後它失去了對盤子的粘附, 反而粘在fep上. 當然, 我看不到, 直到它大約45-50 %的標記, 所以我很幽默. (我還沒有把ac usb棍子換成我自己, 因為我忘了購買備用, 而且我不尋常的卡片/ usb棍棒.) 你知道嗎?

它確實將基底/盤列印到近1毫米的厚度, 然後我最後我最後推出了一個很好的立方體格的2 d版本.

我根據這段視訊重新平平了床, 只是從ac的官方指示稍微改變. 目前正在嘗試測試列印格立方體

那麼... 如果這也失敗了, 我應該試試弗林特讀取法, 或者還有其他常見的n00blet錯誤, 我可能有罪, 應該看看?

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Hey Guys, so... i have a few questions i would like for the community to help me with. Sorry it will be a bit of a long post xD.

I got my Photon this week. Here's what i did (questions come after :p ).

- Checked everything was working properly working, turned on the printer, checked if the Z-Axis was moving, if the screen was ok, etc.

- Ditched the stock PSU and USB drive (tested the PSU and its outputing the correct voltage but i ditched it anyway), im using another one i had here with the exact same specs, USB drive im now using a Kingston one.

- Disconnected the "smelling" fan from the main board to avoid the fumes from getting out and stinking up the place. (Planing to upgrade the stock led cooling fan, suggestions???)

- Checked every screw to see if everything was properly tightened (the buildplate wasnt, it would move even after tightening the grub screw).

- Checked the FEP tension with a sound analyzer, it was below 300hz... tuned it to 345-355hz.

- Applied Kapton tape to the borders of the screen (to avoid a spill going into the machine in case that happens).

- Adjusted the buildplate to be completely flat against the screen, made sure that the plate was making even pressure on the paper on all sides (front, back, left and right). After that i leveled the printer and set the new Z=0 (didnt forget to hit Home first :p ).

- Finally i heated up the resin (room temp was 19C) and started the default print file that came with the printer (photos attached).

So, now some questions.

1 - The new yellow windows, how good are they at blocking UV? The printer is not on a direct sunlight enviroment, not even daylight for that matter, but the room does have okayish lighting (there is no light directly above the printer), i am safe to assume resin wont cure while inside? I know i can cover up the printer but im trying to understand if its really necessary.

2 - Do you guys filter the resin and clean the vat after every print? I saw some people mentioning it... but to be completely honest i've never done that with my other printer, well... my other printer doesnt have the leaking risk this one has... So... what do you guys do?

3 - Firmware... my printer came with version 4.2.3... I dont see that in Anycubic site, anyone has the changelog for this fw? Just curious.

4 - Recommendations for resin, im looking for high detail. Impact resistance is not really important right now (Anycubic resins, how do they stack up against the competition?)

5 - Which one is better for the screen to last more? Slow or fast resins?

And for now thats it! Thanks guys...one of the reasons i got the Photon was for this awesome community =)

嘿, 夥計們, 所以... 我有幾個問題想讓社羣幫我解決. 抱歉, 這將是一個漫長的帖子xd.

我這周得到了我的光子. 這就是我所做的(問題之後: p).

-檢查一切正常運作, 開啟印表機, 檢查z軸是否移動, 螢幕是否正常等等.

-丟棄了存貨psu和usb驅動器(測試psu及其輸出正確的電壓, 但我還是拋棄了它), 我在這裡使用了另一個, usb驅動器, usb驅動器現在使用金斯敦.

-從主板上斷開"聞"風扇, 以避免煙霧出來, 讓地方臭. (計劃升級庫存led冷卻風扇, 建議???)

-檢查了每個螺絲, 看一切是否都收緊了(建築板沒有, 甚至在收緊後也會移動).

-用音效分析儀檢查了fep緊張, 低於300 hz... 調到345-355 hz.

-將kapton磁帶應用到螢幕的邊界(以防發生洩漏到機器).

-調整構建板完全平坦, 以確保板塊對紙板對紙面(前, 背面, 左和右)施加壓力. 之後, 我平平了印表機, 設定了新的z =0 (沒有忘記先打家: p).

-最後我加熱樹脂(房間溫度為19 c), 並啓動了印表機的預設列印檔案(照片附後).

所以, 現在有一些問題.

1-新的黃色窗戶, 阻擋紫外線有多好? 印表機不在直接陽光環境上, 連白天也沒有, 但房間確實有okayish照明(印表機上方沒有光), 我可以安全地假設樹脂治癒嗎? 我知道我可以掩飾印表機, 但我試著理解是否真的有必要.

2-你們在每次列印後過濾樹脂並清理增值稅嗎? 我看到有些人提到它... 但老實說, 我從來沒有和我的另一個印表機做過, 好吧... 我的另一個印表機沒有洩漏風險... 那麼... 你們這些傢伙是甚麼? 做甚麼?

3-固件... 我的印表機有4.2.3. 版.. 我沒看到在任何立方體網站, 有人有這個fw的改裝? 只是好奇.

4-樹脂推薦, 我正在尋找詳細的細節. 現在抵御衝擊並不重要(任何立方體樹脂, 他們是如何堆積起來對抗競爭的?) 你知道嗎?

5-哪一個更好讓螢幕持續更多? 慢或快速樹脂?

現在就這樣! 謝謝大家... 我得到光子的原因之一是這個很棒的社羣=)

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My third print of the test cube and it is the best yet, but still has major fail. I started with exposure time of 10 seconds, did this twice so last night I thought I'd up it to 12 seconds (Using newly shipped resin dated Sep 2018) and this is by far the best print. The lattice structure looks near perfect as does one of the internal banners, the other banner not good at all. Any ideas? Thank you for your patience in helping me learn this process. Bob

我的測試立方體的第三個列印, 它是最好的, 但仍然有很大的失敗. 我從曝光時間10秒開始, 昨晚做了兩次, 我想我會提高到12秒(使用2018年九月2018日的樹脂), 這是迄今為止最好的列印. 晶格結構看起來近乎完美, 內部旗幟之一, 另一個橫幅根本不好. 有甚麼想法嗎? 感謝您的耐心幫助我學習這個過程. 鮑勃·鮑伯

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