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Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » polishing

原文網址 Marcin Kudzia
2019-01-13 21:14:05

Hey guys, I know this is not strictly photon talk but something worth sharing especially for guys that want transparent prints and want to get rid of the slight imperfections. This is a "transparent" print of P38 canopy. With Anycubic i3 Mega using clear ABS filament. Results out of the printer you can see is the milky like totally opaque result. However after intiiall polishing of the windows with 300/800/1600/3000 grit I applied the XTC-3D finishing resin and as you can see it filled all the imperfections nicely creating nice transparent windows. I will bugg it a bit more after it cures and maybe apply a second layer but result is acceptable :)

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Guti Gutmann
2019-01-13 21:20:05

Miguel Montes Graña
2019-01-13 22:01:58


原文網址 Nick Spirov
2019-01-11 02:48:56

Hi,
has anyone tried polishing the FEP with microcrystalline wax (AKA Renaissance wax) to smooth it and minimize sticking?

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Thomas Singer
2019-01-11 03:04:39

Sen Kun
2019-01-11 03:16:45


原文網址 Seber Dra
2018-11-29 15:23:20

How I Polishing Resin model from Photon
I use melamine sponge

Art knife > Sand Paper > melamine sponge
And don’t forget dust mask ?

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Sen Kun
2018-11-29 15:30:42

Ben Schumacher
2018-11-29 23:10:35

Brian Morin
2018-11-30 00:48:10

Sen Kun
2018-11-30 01:20:00


原文網址 Vishal Nischal
2018-08-25 14:49:11

Good morning photonsters, Full story is here!!!! (watch till the last picture), final product is just acid treated ~ no polishing post production work done yet!!! Also have a look at the 20x magnification result # BLUECASTX5 # BLUECAST # pch3d

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原文網址 Devesh Rai
2018-07-11 15:32:31

Diamond from Thingiverse. Printed on Monocure Clear, 0.5/60/8/10/1. No polishing, sprayed with clear coat. Left overnight unprotected, caused a little yellowing.

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原文網址 Stefano Corinaldesi
2018-06-30 12:44:58

Alternative use Tek 1969 for Titanium Polishing

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原文網址 Sterling Murphy
2018-06-27 06:48:13

Looking for advice on polishing or buffering a finished print.

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原文網址 Julian Braun
2018-05-29 02:18:40

Lenses, printed with Monocure Rapid Clear. They need post processing (polishing, grinding). Slightly brown, absorbs maybe 30%. Invisible substructure, maybe a gradient index pattern induced by pixel grid produce diffraction grating-like effects. Usual curing time 50% more compared to Anycubic green resin (eg 15 instead of 10 seconds)

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原文網址 Daniel Neubacher
2018-04-02 13:39:12

After some time now with the Photon I have to search a bit more to find something to print. I've bought it to print miniatures but my "cloudy dlp printer wanting" mind didnt realize that there aren't too many to get for cheap or free :) I've bought a few heroforge minis but this doesnt scale well. The new desktophero looks promising but I think it still needs some polishing. I thought about creating a little heroforge trading group but their tos is pretty tight, like I can be lucky to get a stl in the first place :) I'll gladly pay for a good mini but €10 for every print is too much for me and heroforge lacks variety at times. So what do you guys do to get your miniatures? Maybe there is a magical place I didnt kow about :)

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原文網址 Flint Read
2018-03-06 15:05:20

Just gave this answer to a chat thread and thought it might be worth posting generally

For those still having a bit of trouble with failed prints follow if you want but bear in mind this is not the Anycubic recommended method and if you do something dumb you may crack your screen all parts MUST be absolutely clean and free of dust before you attempt this (I can not stress that enough DO NOT GET LAZY WITH YOUR screen and plate cleaning do NOT RUSH) take your time and you will have a 100% level bed with this technique

. If you feel brave my bed is absolutely level to my screen I do this by loosening the plate and homing it then I switch to 0.01 setting and continue to lower the plate onto a regular A4 piece of paper i tug on the paper after each press and when it's so snug i would have to pull firmly to get it out i then tighten the plate This is the IMPORTANT bit, I then raise the plate until i can just about shift the paper back and forwards with a bit of resistance (not much but it will feel firm), Then i back out of the movement menu and go to the Z=0 menu and set the new z height. this way i know I have the right height but more importantly my build plate is 100% parallel to the screen., sorry for the long answer but this is (I am sure) why i have such a high success rate with my prints.

I also sanded my build plate by laying some 600 grit clean emery paper on some glass then soaked the paper and figure of eight polishing it to keep it totally flat this gives me a higher chance of the base layers sticking the only fails I have had are 2 bad files that I should have checked first and a power outage should have checked the meter :D lol

Once every couple of prints I also check that all bolts holding the build plate together are both tight and secure so I can always be sure there is no wiggle being introduced to the plate from a loose nut it's not very likely but could happen with enough long term vibration. and after every print i remove, check and clean the vat i do this by pouring a small amount of IPA into the newly emptied vat to dissolve any residue and make it easier to remove any over cure if there is some. i then clean up with two paper towels (all this is done with the vat laying on a very clean and flat bit of glass 8mm thick) i then polish the FEP film lightly with a micro fibre cloth designed for lens cleaning. and then a final check in good light to make sure nothing not even a speck remains in the vat or on the film. then I clean the screen using the same method but with a lot less IPA and final polish with the optical cloth. My machine looks like new and prints perfectly every time :D Hope all this O.C.D. stuff helps you as it does me. Now stop gawking around here and go print something amazing and remember pics or it never happened!

oh i forgot to add this bit: i also clean the underside of the FEP film as well and finish with optical cloth

This seems like a whole hell of a lot to do each time but I leave the last print in the IPA bath while I am cleaning up the vat, Screen and film and by the time it's done the print just needs a quick swill round and we are ready to rock and roll on support removal :D

if it helps any feel free to copy and paste this as a reference sheet to follow until it becomes second nature to you then all you need worry about is what resin and what settings to try because it wont be your vat, film or screen and it sure as all heck will not be your build plates orientation.

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