Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

In a month or so I am going to start an 'epic' project'- a full conversion of the Hasbro Hero X-Wing. Anyone that isn't familiar with this impressive guy it's 30" nose to engine exhausts and 24" wing tip to wing tip. I won't be printing the fuselage but I will be printing pretty much everything else. Needless to say most of the parts are bigger than the build plate.

I have the STL files, but at this time I don't have the knowledge or skills to cut the pieces into sized that will fit and add connection tabs so I can put everything back together. Ideally the wings should be cut at a natural seam/hull line so the seam looks natural. Is there anyone out there that can do this? I will pay for this service as long as it's not an arm and a leg... otherwise I'll have to wait until I acquire the skills myself.

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I'm going to do a print that may (or may not) use all the resin in the vat. Is it safe to pause the print, raise the build plate, add more resin, and then resume the print? Will it auto resume and lower the plate to the right height to resume the print?

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Support questions...

Right now and because I am a newbie I have been using the auto support in the Photon slicer. For the most part it has been fine, but every now and then I get what I call 'pricklies' and pock marks when I remove the supports. It's fixable with a little sanding and sometimes some PPP (Perfect Plastic Putty) but it is a bit irritating at times. It can turn a perfect print into something I don't want to show anyone until I fix it. I see some of you are doing supports in other software, which software are you guys using that works the best with auto support?

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My impressions and assessment after owning the Photon for a week now...

I've printed nonstop for the past week. I averaged 2 prints a day. I only had one failure but that was a bad file not the printer. The only other issue I had was a gantry bridge had one footer consistently deformed, but again I think that was due to the file. I resized it (made it bigger) and I think there was something with the one footer that cause it to deform when blown up in size. Other than that everything has been perfect.

I haven't encountered some of the common problems I've seen others have- like prints sticking to the plate and requiring a razor blade or metal scraper to get it off. The plastic one provided is working fine. I started having a print issue where the object wouldn't stick to the plate. Again I have been printing nonstop, basically refilling the vat and hitting print again. When I started having the failure to stick issues I simply stopped printing, cleaned everything and used Flint's leveling method and it's printing like a champ again.

So my personal assessment is this is one great little printer. My only complaint isn't an issue with the printer, rather I just wish the build volume was bigger. That's pretty much it. Everything has been a dream with it. It would be nice to be able to see if the print is on the plate without waiting for it to clear the vat, but I'd rather have this rock solid vat with inexpensive FEP replacements over a clear vat that you have to replace the entire vat.

So I guess I just wanted to praise this little guy! Anyone that is on the fence about buying one, I say do it. If you always wanted a 3D printer this is a decent price, good quality, great customer support compared to some other companies, and it's easy to use.

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Are there any tutorials on how to make interlocking parts with a seam as small as possible? The best way to explain it I guess would be parts like the Bandai model kits that snap together and are so precise no glue is needed. They typically have the parts fit together along a natural seam line like a hull panel or natural break. I have tried to search but really didn't find anything. Sometimes my GoogleFu is weak ;)

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I see a lot of people use Monocure Rapid Cure resin... I need to order more resin so quick question, is there any particular color that works best?

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Questions questions and more questions lol... I bet you guys are sorry you let me join :)

Okay... I have been doing basic prints (a lot of them) but I want to start doing what I got this for... custom stuff and larger props. I need to learn how to dissect an stl and remove sections so I can print something in pieces because the whole object is too big for the build area. I need to do some precision 'cuts' to take this one apart, that way when I glue it together there isn't a noticeable seam, or the seam is where there is a body panel line already so the seam won't be noticeable.

Meshmixer doesn't give me the precision and control I want/need. What software would work best for this and is relatively easy to learn?

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Yet another question...

Since everything I am printing will be painted, it really doesn't matter what color the resin is that it is being printed in. Do the lighter colors or translucent colors like the Anycubic green work better than darker colors? I had a print failure with the Wanhao gray resin. I used the settings from the spread sheet and shook it really good. I was printing like a mad man with the Anycubic green so I know that works well.

I really don't care about the color, will I be better served using lighter color resin? I would just keep going with the Anycubic resin but it's a bit expensive.

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First print failure.

Two variables were introduced... First I ran out of the green resin so I switched to the Wanhao gray. I used the settings in the spreadsheet. The second variable was a file I never printed before and was something converted from Sketchup.

I ran a printer test and the LCD is working fine, and seeing the print was in the bottom of the vat, The build started on the plate but the rest was in the vat. I'm going to print a file I know worked with the Anycubic green resin and see what happens.

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I'm looking for a Battlestar Galactica Landram stl

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