Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Is there any way to spin a model in Chitubox the way you can in the Anycubic slicer once supports are down?

I'd like to easily optimize what's on the build plate, so any different functionality towards that end would be just as good.

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I have a guilty confession to make.

I tried using Chitubox about 3 months ago and my print failed miserably so I assumed it was garbage software and didn't try it again.

A few days ago the anycubic slicer was doing some weird support nonsense as is it's way - I was placing supports manually like I always do, and it was putting those support bridge pieces just hanging in the air not connected to anything.

I decided to try try Chitubox again, and I realized that I had forgotten to set my resin settings when I tried it the first time. When I opened up the resin section, I only had like three bottom layers and they were only being exposed for 30 seconds.

I just finished my first (correctly set) print in Chitubox and it came out beautifully. The supports were perfect and came off like a dream.

I feel pretty stupid to be honest.

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What's the over\under on this too-heavy print being OK anyway

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When the Photon Validator calculates resin used, is it accounting for supports as well?

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I'm printing something delicate. Normally I like Anycubic Grey but the finished parts are a little brittle.

What Anycubic resin do you guys like that has a bit of flex to it?

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Does it make any difference if you let the IPA dry off of a part or not before you put it in UV to cure it?

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Beyond the resin exposure finder, which I use, what small test prints do you guys like to try to dial in settings for a new resin?

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Ok, I'm obviously missing some fundamental concept here :)

I tried doing identical prints at .01 and .04 to see if there was a quality difference (.01 seems a little worse tbh).

What I can't figure is, why were the support bases so much thicker with otherwise identical settings?

Resin was Anycubic White:

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Is there a way to easily fix a model that doesn't import into the slicer very well? Meshmixer shows the bottom faced as red, and the slicer just drops all the bad faces, period.

The original model is apparently scaled to 12" which is pretty problematic.

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What happens if you hollow a model in Meshmixer, but don't add drain holes?

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