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I have left in the VAT a bit of Anycubic black.
In lack of possibilities i purchased Monocure Rapid black.

Now have 2 questions with hope get answers from you:
1. Can i mix Anycubic with Monocure ?
2. By same parameters aside the resin brand should i be abble to go with 8.5seconds by 0.025 layer for Monocure ?

Point 2 is specialy interesting as it would save me to run all models again trough the slicer.

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I ran almost out of Anycubic black. As i couldnt find it here i purchased 2 liters of Monocure black and 0,5 liters of Monocure clear.
My questions are:
1. Does Monocure achieves same printing details as with Anycubic ?
2. I'll use the clear as a cover layer (enamel like) applied with a brush and uv-cured, will it stay clear ?

Hope some can share their experiencess.
Thanks anyway.

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When you listen anxious for the "schlurp".
And you still dont hear it but dont dare to pause ! :-(

Because you never paused and your conciousness tells you the supports are well placed.

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Darkelf Witchqueen finally assembled.
Size is around 150 millimeters without base.

It's a 3D-kitbash of 4 different models. Legs/torso/arms/face from thingyverse to which i modelled a headpiece with needle-hair, locks and horns.

Added a sprayover of grey primer to bring out the details.

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The latest print from this weekend.
Till it was ready to print it gave me some nightmares about the filesize. Hardly my computer could handle it.

The overall model is somehow a 3D-kitbash from different models on thingyverse.
The legs was from one figure.
The torso was astatue without arms, cutted the head off and added another. The headpiece, hair and locks are modelled by myself.
The arms are from the dreamcatcher figure on thingyverse.

The next nightmare started while i had to add to each hairstrand manually supports.

Overall i'm thrilled and it was worth the effort.

Used parameters:
- Anycubic black
- 80 seconds at 10 baselayers
- 8.5 seconds on layers
- 1.5 seconds off time
- 0.05 milimeter layer thickness

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Some of the best prints so far.
Booth models from thingiverse.

The nymph is 28mm in size. As the original model was missing a part of the right arm i added one to be abble to use as a wargames figure.

The other is called ToonGirl and is about 54mm.
Printed it just cause had some spare space on the buildplate. No real use for the figure, maybe by daughter will want it for playing. :-)

For booth i added supports in Anycubic slicer.
But before i looked carefully in which angle to print.
The small one was done with mid-autosupport. Then deleted some of the supports and teplaced them with light-supports. Also had to add some additional supports at points the slicer didn't recognize as islands.

The big one i did in heavy-autosupport.
Like by the other deleted some and added some supports.

Settings:
- Anycubic black
- 10 baselayers with 80 seconds
- 8.5 seconds exposure
- 1.5 seconds offtime

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As i've read so far it seems some have difficulties to know where exactly supports are needed.
It's cause you have to think upside down.

Slicers also do not catch necessarly all points where supports are needed.
So adding manually supports is sometimes necessary.

I thought about a easy way for those not very familiar with 3D how to see where slicers maybe miss.

Load your file in the slicer.
Incline it to the degree you think it should be printed.
Then move your viewport the way you see the model from under it.
Now step by step, 1mm, turn z-axis to minus.
Slowly your model model stick out under the "plate".
As soon you see a spot of your model not connected tò the rest it a island which needs a support.
After you added auto-supports check if those islands you've seen as mentioned before got supports.
If not, add them manually.

Hope managed to describe it understandable.

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Latest badge of Hotwheels tires and rims.
Rimsize is 8 milimeters.

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Anyboby thought about a possibility to see what's going on in the VAT ?
I'm a bit tired not knowing if it's going to be good or bad and waiting till the print is almost finished.

Have the idea to cut a "window" in the VAT where i can actually see what happens while it prints. Means drilling a hole in the sidewall of the VAT, cutting a piece of glass to the right size and slip it in. sealed with silicon.

What's your thought about that ?

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Project from 2013 finally got printed.
It's the 1st set of 8 different rim-sets.

I started back in 2013 to model rims, tires and centercaps when i still created custom Hotwheels.
Unfortunately then 3D printing was pretty expensive.
The model has for detail comparison by myself recasted resin rims from another brand then Hotwheels.

A lot changed since then and now i can print them myself ! :-)

Had a hardtime to catch the details with my phone.
The rims have a diameter of 8 milimeters.
The tires are 11 milimeters and the centercaps around 2.8 milimeters.

Parameters:
- anycubic green
- layers 0.02
- 7.5 seconds exposure
- 1.5 seconds offtime
- 10 base layers with 60 seconds exposure

Support grid and supports manually designed.

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