Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Ok... I put my IPA bath out to cure today so that I could filter / clean it....first time doing it. It's a mix of anycubic green and elegoo gray in there. (with mostly IPA of course). Anyway it started to cure on the walls of the container facing the sun... So I gave it a shake.... Now that's coooool. Not all cleaning aspects of our messy hobby are bad... (or I'm just easily amused)

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Ok gurus, I'd like to get opinions on improving my process of removing unsupported islands that are too small (or invconvenient) to support in Chitubox.

I use the photon validator to do this, but it usually involves "removing" pixels identified as an island. Here's the problem: removing pixels works but at that point it simply moves the problem 1 layer up (the island still exists but starts 1 layer higher) . The problem is the validator doesn't automatically recalculate the "now ruined" layer above, so I fix all the islands I can (that are identifed in the validator) save the file and re-open it (tediously wait for it to recalculate every layer) and remove the next layer of islands for all the ones I just removed a layer down. I usually have to do this about 5 to 7 times.... because that's how many layers thick the unsupported island typically are (Anything larger than that becomes easy to support in ChituBox regardless of orientation, tight spaces etc).

For the record, this process has great results for me. Never have failed prints (Because large islands are properly supported, and small ones are eliminated with the process above)....but its CRAZY tedious. I wish there was an automated way to "Remove all red islands in the validator, move up 1 layer, recalculate that layer, if new red appears, remove that and so on" until you run out of that unsupported island, and then you move on to other areas found by the validator.

How can I make myself go less crazy? :) Thanks!

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Anyone have "Optimize Orientation" experience with the Prusa slicer? I just started playing with it yesterday, and although it seems to find some optimal orientation that matches certain criteria (minimize islands? overhangs? suction forces? etc) it seems to neglect (For obvious reasons) "faces of interest" which you want to face away from your build plate and supports. Do you know if there is anyway to get a slightly less optimal orientation, but one that allows you to have a selected face to point away from the build plate? [I'm open to other out of the box ideas , i.e. other software]

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Want to share an interesting finding and solution with ya'll: So I had this issue (See pic) that I thought was frame shearing. I only started to get it with the 4.2.19 firmware (Which I installed because I wanted AA). I tried the EPAX X1 firmware and the issue persisted! (Which is why I think this isn't standard frame shearing because epax firmware is known to fix frame shearing for good). I then read on the Photonsters README that 4.011 is stable and "Known good" so I reverted to that (which fixed the issue, yay, but I lost AA again, boooo). So I went to Anycubic support and they asked me to try 4.2.17 and they sent it to me (funny enough, according to the included readme, it is a "Beta" version of 4.2.19), but I installed it and the issue seems to have gone away! and I have AA. I'm assuming it's the same 4.2.17 that you can find here: https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/tree/master/firmware Work checking out if you're having this issue. 翻譯年糕

Hello all! Thanks everyone for the excellent FAQ's, tools, and general community support. With all these resources I've been getting successful prints from almost the start since I got the printer a few weeks ago (see example print in pictures). One big frustration though...ever since the first print..I keep finding cured resin floating around in my vat after the print. It doesn't cause my prints to fail, but I do have to clean the vat each time which is getting frustrating. Looking at other similar posts, people say it could be stray light. But I print only at night. So I started testing my bulbs by holding blobs of resin near them on a business card. The one closest to my printer (a couple of feet away) did cure resin when I was holding the card an inch away from the bulb (see CFL bulb in question in the pictures). But now I'm confused. Some people say "LED's have UV components", but other posts say "CFLs and Incandescents have UV, so use CFLs" . lol. I can't work with the printer in the dark, so how do I reliably figure out what kind of bulbs I could use in that room without trial and error and un-necessary expense? Is there a type / brand / "Kelvin temperature" of light bulbs that is known to reliably work? Thanks in advance.
Edit : For those just coming to the conversation:
Printer: Original photon
Resin: Anycubic Firmware: v4.0.11 (The only one that didn't give me frame shearing)
Typical exposure settings: 10s normal, 50s bottom layers, 4.5s off time, 8 bottom layers
That said, the test cube printed fine, but also had cured resin in the vat at the end. 翻譯年糕