ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » CES

Hi Birk, I took a quick look and it looks like there are two problems:

1. The upper flat face at the bottom of the face (not the one touching the print bed) goes through the sidewalls of the vase. Instead it should be trimmed by the inner perimeter of the vase wall

2. The very bottom face (and maybe also the same upper face as mentioned before) seem to have duplicate surfaces on the same plane. This will also confuse the slicers or 3D model programs.

1. The tiny edge peeking out of the outer side wall indicates that there is a surface with a perimeter running along it

2. The odd pattern indicates that there are 2 surfaces on the same plane

Hi Andrew - thanks for your help on this. I will make a new posting about what I did with this part to get it to print (sort of), but it's clear the key word in your comments above is "confuse".

Your observation that both of the surfaces of the bottom meet the outside surface of the part is correct. I could have trimmed the bottom's upper surface with the inside part surface, but I used the outside surface simply because that's the one I used to trim the bottom's bottom surface. I can easily use the part's inside as the trim surface; I will do this on my next print.

I did not think it mattered whether I used the inside or outside to trim the bottom's top surface because I thought slicers only cared about external surfaces, and ignored internal ones. I guess this is not the case.

I am not sure what to do about apparent duplicate surfaces. In the part design there are really only 1 of each. Each one is created as a boundary surface, where the boundary is the plane curve formed by the intersection of the outside surface with the top and bottom of a right circular cylinder that is somewhat larger in diameter than the actual part.

For my next print I will use a different method to create these surfaces. I'm not exactly sure what that method will be, but hopefully it will also resolve the problem you describe in #1 above. That one is surprising because I did a "join surface" to eliminate the naked edge at the intersection of the outside and bottom surfaces.

Thanks again for your help with this. It's clear I still have some things to learn about designing parts for 3D printing.

Possible solution:
1.use a much bigger mouse ear
2. consider to turn off the M106 controllered cooling fan(set a very high fan z on kisslicer) since it's a large object. Should be fine without cooling. …… 查看更多

Simple
De l'abs melanger a de l'acétone pour obtenir un jus.
En suite prendre un chiffon et en mettre sur le plateau. …… 查看更多

Ludovic: merci beaucoup!

De rien
Comment as tu acheté une atom et ou.
J'aimerais en acheter une une. …… 查看更多

Ludovic: I am in the US and was included in the Atom2 "Early Adopter" program. That means I was able to get an Atom2 before they became available for order in the US. People in Taiwan and (I think) in Japan can get Atom2 now, but not anyone else.

I …… 查看更多

Birk - perhaps try applying a thicker layer of gluestick, different gluestick brand or a stronger one. Also try waiting a bit for the gluestick to "dry" first

I can assure both english manuals will be much more improved in terms of translation. (The draft version you received was quite literally a draft) Extra details from suggestions will be added. Thank you …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard here is a link on the print bed adhesion issues. http://reprap.org/wiki/Bed_material
The fool proof solution if everything else fails I found to be brown paper packaging tape with UHU gluestick on top. I us this solution on very large objects with corners. I never fails! Oh, and no need for heated bed.

Thanks Andre - I've been doing some reading on the subject myself ,and the general consensus seems to be that 3M blue painter's tape on a cold bed works about as well as anything. The reason given is that there is wax (or something) in the tape that m …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard try and send my your g-code for the heart box that troubles you and I will test it with my setup.

Large area object test:
http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/62187225

Clarence - yes, the Geckotek test #4 at about 45:00 is exactly what I am talking about. What did you do to solve this?

Andre - thanks for your help with this.Here is the link to download the box GCode. It includes mouse ears twice the size of those shown on the previous photo.

http://1drv.ms/1S1tuIN …… 查看更多

I think previous few suggestion I post ed, each of them is a possible solution. Since almost all I tested before and proved works.
Geckotek plate is a special plate design by geckotek3d.com for PLA without glue & heatbed. I just get it about a week. St …… 查看更多

This corner might be a little not flat enough.
If it's not geckotek plate. another tips I never tried but heard it works is use super glue on the corner during printing.
I printed square box about 10x10cm before a few times. It's really hard to fight with at least one corner might warp. Sometimes I still thinking if it's round corner might be helpful?

Has anyone tried kisslicer's brim with the mouse ears?

1.yes or no.
Use the kisslicer profile on file area. check the pre gcode.
The marlin FW here, g29 save the leveling array.
So, the g29 is not necessary on each print.
But might need bed offset. The example profile is work like that.
But you still can use old way, add G29 Z+0.3 (for example) after g28 at prefix gcode section in kisslicer or other slicer.

2. G28 auto home
G29 auto level
ref http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

3. Possible G0 X(200/2) Y(200/2). [if you set the dimension in pronterface setting]
It looks like not for deltabot style printer.

4. Turn off,no motor current out put.
You could notice that you can move the cart by your hand.
Any G code need to use stepper motor would bring it back output and moving.
Such as G01

5. SD card benefit. No PC connected required.
Prevent any USB connection or PC sw error/suspend interrupt the printing job.

1. Yes for auto home, home is the starting point to count the distance to the bed. No for auto level, it is now stored in eeprom, if you did not remove the bed or disassemble the nozzle parts, it is not necessary. They are stored in your prefix gcode.. . 4. Marlin firmware has a timeout to turn off motors but you can manually do it by click motors off. Turn off means power off, do not energized them. once you give any command related to move, the motor is turned back on automatically (Ex. G28 auto home)

Give you a reference,my installation method

Very nice. Better than my approach - but I cut off my flex tubing so I can't do that now.

FYI, you can use a lighter to shrink the shrink wrap

An open flame sounds a little scary - but I might just try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

https://youtu.be/4vnthybw0II?t=27s

Excellent - very hot! I'll give it a try. Thanks.