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Fixed, changed the mainboard for a new one, looks like the mainboard was faulty, tomorrow I will check it to see what is wrong with it.

Thanks everyone ;)

My first motherboard had an very obscure problem - it was some sort of internal short circuit (or something) that caused the reading of the X limit switch to be interpreted incorrectly, but only when the X & Y limit switches were triggered together. Individually all the limit switches worked OK, and so did the X-Z and X-Y pairs. Only the X-Y pair gave a bad result.

Its extrange, as soon as I get some time I will check the signals with the polimeter...

Check 12v => 5v regulator and L1

I checked and it looks like the regulator, Ill change it, thanks Clarence Lee

插頭那邊動一下,或者拔起來重插看看,應該就會有了

小心迪士尼告侵權

沒成功跟電腦連線中途斷掉了？確定port對再試一次？

我笑了，
以後等待列印的時候還可以玩一下？

這個不錯喔~

新開發的韌體能增加這個功能嗎？XDDDD

不要這樣浪費才能XDD

Is side fan blowing when it's 16x/200 ?
Is bottom wind shielding available?
Where did you get the thermistor?
Is it NTC 100K?
B 3950?
Or even have a model number like MF58

這個之前有 po 過了心得了. SD卡的內容不宜過多, 因為它讀寫久了, 容易有異常, 讀寫速度會越來越慢.

嗯sdcard裡面的檔案不宜太多，因為韌體實作檔案列表的方式很沒有效率(但這樣的mcu也只能這樣寫了)

Seems not. Details will be later in hours. Today is a tough day to me.

Understand - thanks

If it's problematic after a few mins, the first I would check is the back cooling fan effective.
It sound like coldend too hot.

Try to measure the temperature around coldend area.

The back fan is OK - I can tell by the sound it makes. I did stall the blades once when I reassembled the printhead, but that was immediately obvious and has not happened again.

Only one of my side-blowing fans works (I should have replacement fans in a couple more days) so this could result in uneven temperatures, but would this be enough to cause hot-end clogs?

hmm I don't think so, but did your inner 3*2 ptfe tube already got the replacement?
Maybe a photo focus on the hotend & effector.
wondering there might be something related.

To tell the heat resistor and thermistor ok or not.
Check the temperature by other thermometer.

Yes, I did replace the inner PTFE tube and have checked it several times. It is OK; not burned or melted at all and filament passes through it OK. All the parts in the hot end look good actually - I'll take a pic next time I have it disassembled.

Birk Binnard For your situation, I guess you should try to use the smallest allen wrench to push or pull out the materials stuck in the triangle field of hot-end.
In general, the printhead have three regions, PTFE, triangle area, extrusion hold. And we always aware to replace PTFE, but never pay attention to the triangle area.
As my personal experience, this area is the most important about the printhead. So, after you clean it up, you may solve the problem you have encountered.

Could this be that the PTFE tube can be easily moved within the hotend? The extruder sometimes pull back the filament, which I imagine could also pull the inner tube, leading to some filament getting stuck in between the hotend and the end of the tube. I have similar issues from time to time, but manually pushing the filament usually solves the problem.

that means inner ptfe tube too short
Or you are talking about longer one?

Here is a pic of my disassembled hot end. The internal PTFE tube is 19mm long and filament passes through it OK. The Quick Connector is just below/behind the 2 yellow wires; it has white filament in it. The heatsink comes off easily and is not clogged or dirty. The pieces of electrical tape are mine - they cover up solder joints where I had re-soldered wires I broke during previous disassembly/reassembly attempts.

I am a bit reluctant to take the entire hot end apart for fear of breaking either the heating resistor or the thermistor. I have used the end of a paperclip to poke down the top of the hot end and clean out whatever filament is in there, but the same problem keeps recurring.

19m is too short, it would moving inside up & down when retract

Originally the PTFE tube was 23mm long, but I found that the bottom end (the end inside the hot end) was ending up in a slight conical shape that seemed to restrict the filament moving through it. Plus, the PTFE tube is a tight fit inside the metal piece that holds it so I don't think it moves very much (if at all.)

I guess I can try a piece 23mm long again just to see what happens.

OK - I tried a longer tube - 25mm to be exact. Pic #1 shows the longer tube next to the shorter one (19 mm) I had been using.

The longer one failed pretty badly. At 200 degrees I was able to push a tiny bit (maybe 4 mm) of filament through the hot en d, but that's all. After that I could neither feed nor extract any filament. So I raised the temperature to 240 degrees - hotter than I have ever used with PLA before - and the filament was still stuck. So I disassembled the hot end and found that the PTFE tube was stuck in the hot end. I managed to get it out with considerable effort (again heating to 240) and Pic #2 show how it looked when it came out.

Here is Pic #2

Yes, the inner one. Mine lost its triangular head when I pulled after it was stuck, so it does have more wriggle room that what it should.

Just out if curiosity, what is the yellow bit in the lower left below the fan?

It is one of 2 identical horseshoe shaped printed parts called a quick_connector_spacer. It fits in the space at each end of the Bowden tube and significantly reduces the movement of the tube when the printer does retracts. The bottom line is it helps a lot with reducing stringing.

I couldn't find it online so here's a link to the STL file:

https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......

I put a new piece of PTFE into the hot end and reassembled it. Before I did this I made sure the inside of the hot end was clear of any old filament or PTFE residue. With the new PTFE and temperature at 200 I can manually push filament through the hot end, but it takes a lot of pressure to do this - basically I have to grab a piece of filament with some pliers and push hard on it to get any extrusion.

I doubt any extruder gear would be able to push filament with that much force so my only conclusion is there is something wrong with either the hot end itself, or perhaps the heating resistor.

Could the resistor be heating unevenly?

Could you check if resistor not loosen?It should be stable touch the hotend.
But since you said the temperature is stable, it`s not like its moving.
Or maybe the thermistor problem?

Anyway， use multimeter to measure the heat resistor resistance.

Birk Binnard try to use smallest allen key or others to cleanup hotend inside deepest area when heatup the hotend to 200.

What is the expected ohm value? I had a broken thermistor when I first assembled the printer and remember that the manual was quite elusive, something like "it works if it is not zero".

it's a range usually not all the same by batch
So it's better recalibrate by M303
it shouldn't be 0 or open
As I measured before on different batch I got , usually around 2~4 ohm.

It doesn't look like there are any places on either the resistor or the thermocouple to put the multimeter probes. I might be able to see better tomorrow during the day.

Actually I found that a 1/16" twist drill works very well for this purpose. Of course I turned it by hand and not in a drill chuck.

multimeter probe on wires where you connect it.

OK - I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks.

Bug.

Yes - I thought it might be something like that.. An easy fix for sure. But for me 2.04 has the same problem as 2.03 - it does not remember the Z-offset values. So I will go back to 2.02 (again.)

Looks like clogged nozzle?Some toothpicks worked really good for me.

It was a clogged nozzle. Fixed it with the 0.400 mm drill and a small unfolded paperclip. US toothpicks are too thick. I wonder if there is an actual tool made for cleaning out 0.400 mm hot end nozzles. Seems like there should be.

And I wonder what causes the nozzle get clogged in the first place. Seems to me when it gets hot any PLA inside would get forced out by new filament entering the nozzle.

sounds like power issue, or controller board issue

That's my thinking also, but how to identify the actual problem? I have an old motherboard with an internal short that affects the X & Y limit switches ; maybe substituting that might show something helpful.

Maybe use another power source is easier.
Usually controller board is not so frequently broken.
Unless somewhere short , wrong connection, or the board components quality issue.

OK. I have an old PC power supply I used once before. If I remember correctly, black is - and yellow is +, correct?

right

OK - I'll try that and see what happens. Thanks.

Well - using the PC power supply got the printer working OK - sort of. The LCD looks OK and the vibrations are gone, and I can do Auto-Home & Auto-Level OK. But when I try to print from the SD card the LCD says ERR:MINTEMP even though it goes up to th e set temperature OK.

When it reaches the set temperature the LCD SD value increases from 0 to 100% just like it should with the printer printing, but in fact the print head never moves. When it reaches 100% the printhead does a Home move just like it would if the print actually printed.

I did a reload of the firmware (I am using Ver. 2.02) and this had no effect. So the MINTEMP error must be the problem. I thought this meant the thermistor was not working or broken, but the LCD temperature readout looks OK - it goes from 22 to 200 exactly like it is supposed to..

Very puzzling indeed.

So I wiggled the thermistor connector on the motherboard to make sure it was attached ok and after doing this the MINTEMP error disappeared. So the connector or one of the yellow wires in it must have been loose (or something).

I'll try printing a couple of things with the PC power supply and then go back the real one and see if that still gives me problems.

Hmmm....that power supply doesn't look like anything I've seen before. But I do recognize the knife holder.

Birk Binnard
it's for 1U server ATX power anyway.
Just want to say I use PC power for a long time.

Ah - OK. That's a much better shape than the one I have that came from inside an old PC.

我都有

用螢幕背面的可變電阻調一下亮度

Main board is fried, I had the same problem and I needed to replace it

李穆 I've adjusted the VR behind the LCD and it returns to normal. Thanks a lot!

Can you please test what happens if you insert the USB cable during a print?