ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » Kisslicer

請問有人知道KISSlicer產生的Crown Path是做什麼用的嗎？在印鐵塔模型的時候邊緣會產生一些小小的突起似乎就是它造成的，有什麼辦法可以關掉嗎？

貌似沒有人用Mac嗎？ 還是小弟太過孤陋寡聞？
在使用Mac的KISSlicer會發現打開檔案的時候會沒辦法瀏覽
上網找了一下後 發現用拖拉的方式把檔案拖進去 就可以解決問題了
分享一下 希望不會是野人獻曝（掩面

!!出料系統大檢修!!
剛組好機列印遭遇到出料不連續時常會莫名停止供料
新手對於出料阻力到底多大完全沒概念，以為阻力太大造成一連串白工
整理出查修過程來讓大家參考一下

A:首先當然是檢查出料輪是否有對正
結果也不算歪(重點是沒聽到擠料輪刮PLA的達達聲)
進料時已經確認夾緊的機構不會太緊

B:擠料機構都沒問題後檢查是不是馬達出力不夠
結果驅動IC的電壓調整到0.4V也沒用
假設馬達出力沒問題也許是因為擠料過程阻力太大

C:先調高噴頭溫度，讓PLA更容易擠出
結果調到快235度還是一樣

D:懷疑噴頭是否堵塞
退料後將鐵氟龍管退出 先用手壓PLA發現還是很順暢

E:剛組完機響等到沒問題後再開始整線 可能鐵氟龍管在蛇管內跟電線繞來繞去造成阻力
將全部的線組都整理好放入蛇管後最駭才放入鐵氟龍管 還是沒用

F:鐵氟龍管太長 造成阻力過高
結果剪掉約10CM鐵氟龍管 還是一樣(衝動剪管錢要先確認還有預度喔)

G:該不會是韌體怪怪的造成步進馬達亂跳
將韌體重稍後還是沒差
這邊要提一下 到ATOM官網下載韌體後
說明書裡面寫的ATOM2.0.ino
在下載的韌體中沒有這個檔案
應該是沒改道檔名請選用Marlin.ino

F:真正原因是步進馬達會動但其實出力不夠
當初被進退料的輕載的表現騙了
以為馬達沒問題
但最後實在不知道要換甚麼了
就把原廠附的備用馬達驅動IC換上去了
結果終於出料非常順暢
讓我當下內牛滿面
現在終於能正常列印
享受ATOM2.0的超高精度列印XDDDD(當然還要再調KISSlicer參數讓誠品好上加好)

在印官方的迷你铁塔，我也碰到一粒一粒的问题了。已经调过了皮带，PID，Z值。kisslicer切片，0.1层高，温度200，速度30，40，50都试过，destring三项数值8,8,5。还应该调整哪里？

鐵塔還是印得很醜，一粒粒解決不了，還有就是下面過小橋時超失敗的，印了5，6個都一樣。我已經把wipe調到2了還是一樣一粒粒，速度也有試過調慢了⋯

請問還有什麼需要注意的嗎？

還有就是請問大家在調列印速度時，是在kisslicer調還是手動在機器轉那個按鈕？

放KISSlicer3D切片分析軟體的檔案夾，要放在C槽跟目錄下，不然開啟程式時無法載入ATOM2.0設定檔，且參數修改後也無法儲存

請問一樣的檔案 一樣是用Kisslicer切片
溫度左側是185度 右側是200度
材料:PLA 馬卡龍色
為什麼右側的邊緣會這麼醜?溢料嚴重

有人可以解惑嗎?

No strings. No seams.

18.5 hours sliced with Kisslicer. Gold filament. printed with no strings or seams. There are some very (and I mean very) small blobs on the inside that are almost impossible to see, but you can feel them if you run your finger over the inside surface. They are not on the outside surface however.

First photo was at about the 8 hour mark. Orange appearance is due to strong lighting and photo take at night.

I can't see how any printer could make a higher quality print than this. Congratulations to the Atom2 team.

翻譯年糕

2 bud vases: to seam or not to seam....

I used Kisslicer for the one on the left, and Craftware for the one on the rights. As you can see, the one on the left has no visible seam - trust me, I didn't hide it in the back, there really is no seam on the part - but there is an obvious seam on the one on the right.

Clearly it is possible to eliminate seams when slicing and I hope the Craftware team will put that kind of code into the next release. I watched both bud vases print and I really could not tell what the printer was doing differently between the two, other than the Kisslicer GCode clearly had each printed level starting at a different location around the vase.

翻譯年糕

New design - nice results

I changed the design of my ribbed vase so it has only one outside surface and one bottom surface. I had only a small amount of brown filament left so I printed a small test version of the part. I set Kisslicer's Skin Thickness to 4 mm, but it looks like the sides of the part are about 2 mm. This may be because I scaled it down to a small size due to lack of filament. (The last pic shows how much I had left when the print ended.)

I'm not sure why the outside surface looks so much better than the inside - see pics # 2 & 3. This may be a quirk of Kisslicer. But it does seem that a single-surface part can print OK; this means I do not have to be concerned about both outside and inside surfaces. Thanks to Clarence Lee for pointing that out.

翻譯年糕