Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resolution

Well the first day with the PhotonS had some ups and downs. The lattice cube printed fine right out of the box and then I had failure after Failure...

I cleaned the machine and rechecked the level.

I’ve never had an issue with an ark from Hero Forge so I trusted it wasn’t a problem with the model

On a hunch I opened the cube file to check the settings that match the resin. At this point I decided to use the Photon workshop to slice instead of ChiTubox.

This seemed to solve the issue.

I still would like to see a higher resolution on the face and a good number of supports are welded to the body, but overall I’m pretty happy.

Thanks for this group and all the information you guys provide.

翻譯年糕

Ok so now that Im almost finished working out the detail on the skin of the Orbital Workshop or Skylab, I need to turn my attention to the interior.

In days past these jobs were assigned a 3 tear of resolution A,B,C each tear had 3 states 1,2,3 so it could be in A(1) where it is now and D(3) is obviously ready for production.

If you keep track of it that way the type of job becomes reducible for study and analysts of the process for synthesis of future project work flow.......But I got no time for that!

翻譯年糕

About to buy another litre of resin... Used Anycubic clear green, grey and Elegoo clear red.

So far - all resins appear equal... Any recommendation for another brand to try.

Obviously I want high resolution so will be interested in opinions?

翻譯年糕

First print with # sirayablu Siraya Tech
I killed the print a little early when I saw it was failing,
Settings
Resolution: .05mm
Exposure: 12 seconds
Off time: 5 seconds
Base Layers: 5
Base exposure: 60 seconds
Ambient temp: 25-27c (printer is in my attic)

I am definitely impressed with how strong this resin is, although it looks like the reason it failed is due to some of the layers snapping and shifting mid print. Is this just a levelling issue or something else?

翻譯年糕

Good Afternoon :)

Just a shower thought....
Could you triple the resolution in one dimension if you make use of the sub pixels?

To my knowledge a pixel consist of 3 sub pixel to get RGB color mixing. Bit this isn't needed in this case. Now if the slicer adjusts the color to full red/green/blue you have effectively made 3 pixels out of 1 or I'm mistaken? ?

翻譯年糕

Anyone know why I'm getting a kind of "excess curing" around the supports where they join the model, or where two parts of the model are within a couple of mm of each other they blend together? Doesn't seem to be such a problem on the upper side of the model but the early stages can be a problem. Supports closer than a few mm can fuse together.

I'm using Monocure Rapid Blue, I've had some trouble getting the settings right moving from the Anycubic Green, which printed pretty faultlessly, but the upper side prints so cleanly I'm just confused.

I've been using a pretty fine resolution as I'm printing D&D minis between 30mm and 50mm so trying to max out the details. Printing at 0.02 with 8 exposure, default "1" offtime and it's the Photon S in case that matters.

I feel like it's over exposing but thought 8 secs was pretty low. Is it something to do with the transparency of the Monocure Blue? Am I being too ambitious at 0.02? The supports are a little soft so don't know if I should be lowering the exp. Is the resin too cold or something? It's about 20c in my basement garage

翻譯年糕

I've seen so many posts about continually failed parts lately. Until yesterday I was one of them.

I was attempting to change the settings in the g-code to slow the lift speed when I realized the current website firmware release has a typo in the parameter file.
M8015 P1 and M8016 P2
SHOULD BE
M8015 T1 and M8016 T2
(The number after the last letter is a speed setting, yours may be different)

These two settings control the peel and lift speed which is why, if you have updated the firmware with your new printer, it's ripping off the plate at high speed and supports are failing.

HOW TO FIX: search for the GitHub repository within the Facebook group, download firmware 4.2.5 and follow the install instructions.

Also: download the "Updated factory default translated g-code" from the GitHub. It will explain what all the g-code means and you can use it as a direct replacement for the Chinese g-code parameter file in the firmware by replacing it on your firmware USB stick.
To change any setting at any time, all you have to do is open it in any text editor such as note pad, then save and print the gcode file on the photon (you will have to reset your zero every time you do).

SECONDLY: I sanded my built plate and realised it was 1-2mm bowed on the perimeter from the casting process (proof pictures attached). This absolutely does not qualify as "flat" and afterwards I have no parts coming off the build plate.

If after you sand your plate flat (using a piece of sandpaper placed on a sheet of glass) you are still having problems, replace your FEP film and wipe a thin layer of pure PTFE grease (no rust inhibitors like would be in bike chain lube) on the resin side of the film. This will solve all sticking issues during normal exposures and increase overall toleraces by reducing stresses. This will not affect the resin performance as PTFE is highly stable.

LASTLY: Properly tighten your Z axis rail! Search on YouTube for a how to video. Mine shipped much too loose and I wasted time getting less than expected resolution. I now have zero play and no clicking when I wiggle the plate.

I'm shocked that this thing has the good reviews that it does, it's been a nightmare. But then again most of us bought it for the pricetag, post engineering is to be... expected?

翻譯年糕

Just got this printer. I was all pumped to print some hi resolution resin pieces to discover... these seemed to print faster than I anticipated. Long story short... I am scrambling to find more stuff to print. So what is everyone printing with your DLP? What was the most rewarding prints for you?

翻譯年糕

Does anyone know more about the Wanhao GR1 printer? I see it appeared in Chitubox v1.4 update but can't find any info about it.
I'm wandering if it is a D8 with smaller screen and better resolution.

翻譯年糕

This printer is unavoidable, the quality compared to the price is superb! Never with my FDM printer it would be possible to have a resolution like this little beast! here are my first two impressions ? ? ?

翻譯年糕