Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » LCD

Hey folks. Need some help. Looks like My FEP had a small hole in it because there was resin underneath after this last print finished. I wiped up the loose resin, but a dime to nickel size piece has cured/hardened on the LCD. Is it shot, or is there a way to remove it? I tried rubbing with some alcohol and that actually did make it smaller, but it's still there. Thoughts? Thanks for any help.

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BlueCast X10. Castable resin for lcd printers. Silver 925 only polished with magnetic trumbler

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Hello, i really like the material properties of the Photocentric stuff, but the cure time for the Tensile UV DLP is very High, more than 60s per layer according to the resin xp finder method to reach very fine detail. 24s for basic detail that the print works.

I have a 50W 405nm LED from a past project laying around.
-What would happen if i build in this LED with a proper powersupply and maybe a SSD relay in my Photon?
-Did anybody modified the LED ?
-will the LCD handle the double power?
-Are cure times linear with LED power?
Thanks

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Hi all!
I got my Photon yesterday and after installing and running a successful first print, I couldn't get any more prints from it.

After running tests to locate the problem, i found it to be the LCD screen throwing up error patterns when I do the UV detection test. Has anyone come across this or has a fix for this?

I've contacted Anycubic support, but just wanted to see if anyone has see this before

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Hey all. Any way to actually preview the dot photon files? The built in LCD viewer is pretty silly..

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Hi guys! I'm looking for some help. I have basically now two troubles on the Photon. First one is that the printer works ONLY IN THE TOP AREA (so the half portion versus the back of the printer): base layers won't stich in the front half and eventually also the layers over. Looking at the picture you will see that the layers near the half orizzontal axis aren't melt together and the base layer is very thick: I guess 2 mm thick (thy are 8 base layers of 50 micron...), meantime in the top where the print is well glued to the platform the thickness is maybe 0,5mm or less (in fact...0,4mm nominally...).

No way to print in the front area: you'll findfirst layers stiched to the fep film and nothing on the platform. I changed the LCD due a failure and no changes. Replaced FEP, no changes. Performed several time Z=0 with paper and last time on the FEP, no changes, Sanded down the plaform, no changes. This is the worst issue. The other is that printing at 20micron I haven't the correctZ dimension (lower...), printing at 50 micron Z dimension is correct. Thanks anyone for your precious advices, gio.

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What is the benefit of increasing the rest time?

Is it to let the LCD cool?

Or to make the resin stop moving and settle?

Or to replenish oxygen?

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Hi all. I'm new to the group. I've had my printer since 12/20/18, and all was going well until yesterday when it stopped printing (unable to start a new print). The z-axis would not move up/down, the fan would not come on, and the UV/LCD test would not work. The progress screen showed that it thought it was printing, but nothing was happening. It already had the same firmware version that was on their website, so I downgraded/upgraded the firmware again, with no change. I contacted support, and they promptly sent me a new firmware package to try. This resolved the issue and I'm printing again with less than 1 day down time. I was pretty bummed out to see it fail but their support team quickly came through with a solution.

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Can anyone recommend a printer with a 4K LCD? Is Anycubic planning to release an upgraded version?

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Hey guys, sculpted and printed a set of Japanese Demon heads for fun.
Printed with Siraya LCD resin at 9sec @60um.
Enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3332753

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