Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EMS

Looking at it my gut feeling is to print it vertically. Literally rotated 90 backwards so the critters are crawling upwards. It’ll be a longer print but I think it’ll be the best orientation from a quick glance

Load it in Prusaslicer and right click, then optimize orientation. Add supports with settings of 3mm 100% and then export “entire build plate including supports to STL”

Then load on chitubox and slice

Thanks, I don't have Prusaslicer, but I'll give that a go. I'd just finished supporting the vertical print suggestion from above as you posted this. This is what it's currently looking like. I'll try this I think, see how it goes. I can see at least on e spot where the support is going to fuse to an arm, and I don't even want to look at the all that red underneath the armour plates! http://share.leefletcher.co.uk/8zWzuV

Lee Fletcher I’ve found a lot of the time, unless it is a free floating island, it shouldn’t hurt too much to not be supported. SLA can handle a LOT Of overhang with the right angles

That's me downloaded Prusaslicer, oriented, and exported back into Chitu. Looks to be slightly more rotated to mine (hard to see though, there's so much going on). Will print this plate as is, see which one comes out the best ;) I'm pretty sure it'll be Prusaslicer!

Thanks gents!

Lee Fletcher post some pictures, I’m curious about the result

Wana see them results as well

Jarrod Richards ok results time! So they both printed well, but the Prusa auto supports were a nightmare to remove. They were embedded right into the swarm. And I broke a claw off getting them off.

Mine were ok, and following The 3dprintpro support g uide on YouTube, they were so easy to remove. However, it TOTALLY over supported the base, so there’ll be a fair bit of filing and sanding to get that levelled off.

I think a combo of them both is the best way. The orientation didn’t seem to matter as much as the thicker supports on the Prusa version. Images to follow...

Prusa front - you can see a claw broken off on one of the wee guys on the top right.

Prusa back...I left some of the random supports internally to show how annoying they have been to get out! Clippers, long nose pliers etc.

Mine printed ok on top, and no lost claws or nasty supports to remove. However, I made a mess of the base underneath.

Mine vertical alignment from the back...no horrible supports! ?

I think they both came out great. I’ve got the claw for the other guys, so once they’re cured properly I’ll just glue it on and no harm done. ?

Lee Fletcher interesting results here.

First question, did you clean before removing supports, or the other way around? I usually clean well with IPA first and my supports peel right off.

I’m curious how it will print if you do it with the base flat on the build plate and no supports..

Yeah these had just had an IPA bath, supports removed after that, but they need further cleaning. The Prusa supports seem to be a lot thicker than mine so most weren't pulling off easily. I had to clip probably 90% of them, and some were really hard to reach. Perhaps I got the settings wrong. It was my first time using it :P I will keep learning though!

Lee Fletcher did you set the settings to 3mm/76%?

Jarrod Richards 3mm 100% I think it was.

Lee Fletcher the 3mm is important. That’s what makes for ease or removal.
The % is the density. If you use 76% you’ll get less of a spiderweb of supports

Jarrod Richards perfect thanks ?

Lee Fletcher I almost exclusively use this method.. haven’t failed me yet. Other than that, I have presupported minis that I print as well

Jarrod Richards I’ve just upgraded my Artisan Guild patreon to pre-supported. It is amazing! The guy who does the supports is the guy whose YouTube channel I’ve learnt supporting from, so it’s spot on. I have to say it’s so much easier to just drag the pre-supported stls into Chitubox. All I have to worry about is fitting them all in ?

Lee Fletcher those supports are crazy. If you don’t have your resin settings 100% spot on they can fail spectacularly. That being said, when they do work they are a thing of beauty

Don´t know what causes the break. What temperature is it in the room? Did it break on its own or when trying to remove it? You printing a Maker knife?

rotate part by 15 than print

I have no idea what temperature it is in my room, I do know it's not hot or cold lol and that is before I even tried to get it off the build plate and i will try to rotate it but I fear it will just break again, I thought maybe releveling the bed would help so I am trying that:)

After releveling it broke more lol

If this looks like this does that mean I should try to change the film out?

Is this a new printer? From my understanding, some of them come with a plastic film that needs to be peeled off the FEP before using. Mine didn't, but I've seen this posted before....

Nope I had actually even replaced the fep film and been printing with it fine, though this is a new resin and since i exhausted everything else i can think of im just going to start throwing random settings at it lol

Looks like a suction failure to me. That outer wall basically makes a giant suction cup against the fep. To peel, the liquid resin needs some way to flow into the middle to relieve the suction. Since there's no hole in the part, then the force is great enough that the resin makes its own hole, and blasts through the side of the part. If it happens on an early layer, then it'll keep happening at that spot, the resin will just water-jet its own little hole there.

Makes sense that re-levelling makes it worse. If it's suction, then better levelling will just make the suction cup effect stronger.

As far as a fix goes, you may need to design-in some sort of hole/port for the resin to flow into that center cavity. Either that or elevate the part on supports and print it at an angle.

I just changed mine as well, my question is did you remove the protective film from the FEP sheet?

Yes, I did (on both sides)

You could select the edge, then smooth out that selection, erase (you loose a little bit of the edge, and then have the inspector close the hole.

there's a inspector function in meshmixer? Sorry, newbie user here

on the left click Analysis, then select inspector, it will show some coloured balls, the pink ones are floating non attached parts, bleu is open holes, red is open hole but could create non manifold fix.

Meshmixer is not the most intuitive program to use, but watching lots of Youtube vids can really help, the best are the ones with dental fixtures, search " meshmixer dental"

Try releveling closer to the screen then you think it should be.

I am using the same resin and am having success with 10 layers at 90 seconds

Tom Howley I’ll have to try that instead

Robert Jeppesen I’ve been trying closer each time but I’m always worried about messing up the screen, usually just do the paper test. I’ll try going closer though for my next print.

i've heard that if your resin is too cold, it'll be difficult to get the resin to stick to the plate, try heating the plate before printing

like the build plate? With a lighter or something? I know that’s the case with filament I hadn’t heard that with resin, may be worth a shot ?

the plate... hair dryer

Right I just had never heard that before as far as resin goes, I’ll try it though.

https://www.reddit.com/....../ai44zw/temperature_is_key/

James Richmond nice thanks for the link, my resin and plate should be in those perimeters already but I’m going to heat them a bit nonetheless to see what changes!

following, had issue on last print i did.
Supports and everything were there, just didnt print the legs but everything else above.

Enough suction to delaminate the layer if not enough exposure time perhaps because it wasn't hollowed and then after it came down it squished the layer back "in place" cured over the top and then had enough to keep going. Up your exposure by .5 seconds and hollow the model

Hollowing a 28mm model is not worth it. But exposure increase and maybe temperature too

My guess would be a file error ?‍♂️ .

Hopefully someone who knows can answer your question properly.

Mine does this before the screen fails every time

this, pre warm your resin and consistent room temp (i aim for 20c). laziest way to reduce suction. exposure looks fine for now.

oh actually, another possibility is you missed an island, it stuck to the FEP, and the next layer gets peeled off by the edge.

and another
maybe you knocked your machine.

delete that ball joint, its not worth the trouble it causes... go with a solid mount, or even print one of the options on Thingiverse. Ive got dozens of perfect prints using a solid printed mount.

Shane McAlister dozens you say? I've put many hundreds through my ball joint bed and have never had it budge. So, user error?

Tim Moulton maybe, it's the first time I've had the issue, I'm not worried, just thought I'd share it.

Tim Moulton yes dozens, I've only purchased the Photon S in the last 2 weeks. The first thing I didn't like was the ball joint setup and grub screw arrangement.

Apparently there can be a second grub screw in the slot, preventing it from actually tightening. May be worth looking at on yours

It's not supposed to stick to the FEP.

Mine arrived in this exact configuration, wouldnt allow me to level... thats when I broke the entire joint assembly down to see what the problem was, thats also when I decided to delete that setup.

Shane McAlister granted I’ve only printed a total of 6 prints, mine hasn’t moved at all when I tightened it. I just got it level finally and it seems fine to me

Tucker Adams yea I get that... like I said, after the disassembly of my new unit, I didnt like the design, so I updated it. Ive had zero failed prints.

Shane which one on thingiverse did you use?

use this easy calibrator and fix bed
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3096818

John Coyne https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4021242

Completely disassemble it and start again..I did..never had an issue..haven't relevelled..printing for 8+ months now.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdiNI_Xu6bI

No complaints, was easy to level first time, hasn’t moved, no failed prints since I got the machine.

Noah Belveal I’m still learning so I wanted to ask for clarification, build plate shouldn’t stick to fep but print should, right? The print pulling away is the “pop” sound? I’ve only had more of a peeling sound than a pop this entire time

Good question. I think I see your misunderstanding.

The pop sound is good because it means the print is separating from the FEP. This is not to say that some sticking to the FEP is good, but that it is expected/unavoidable.

My S did this, my OG never has. Take it apart, clean it, tighten everything down and you’ll be good to go.

you have gotten resin on the ball joint, had a similar issue

Is it the double screw issue from a while back?

You have to remove 1 screw, tighten the one under it and then you screw in the second one again to lock it in place

Why do people keep repeating this crap? There's only supposed to be one grub screw to lock the build plate. If there are two, it's an assembly error from the factory.