Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ABS

Estimados quería saber cuanto tiempo debo poner mis piezas en la luz, existe alguna formula para calcular esto.

tengo este foco (fotografía) UV espero me sirva.¿que dicen?

Especificaciones:
Iluminación Color: UV
LED Cantidad: 18 Leds x cada led es de 1W
Material: ABS + Aluminio
Voltaje de trabajo: CA 110-240 V, 50/60 Hz
IP Rating: IP64 (Uso en interiores solamente)
Tamaño del producto: F5 * H3.7 * L5.7 in (F12.7 * H9.5 * L14.5 cm)
Peso neto: 0.92Lbs (0.42KG)
Peso bruto: 1.06 Lbs (0.48KG)
Longitud del cable: 103cm
Temperatura de trabajo: -20 ~ 40 ¿
Distancia de control remoto: dentro de 15M
Modelo de control: AUTO, maestro / esclavo, DMX512
Canal de control: Canal 7DMX
Efectos de iluminación: Todo encendido / Salto Cambio / Fundido Activado / Estroboscópico / Pulso / Sonido / Carreras de caballos.

Características:
Diseño elegante y compacto, fácil de instalar y adecuado para diferentes ocasiones.
Uso de 18 piezas de LED de alta potencia con el rendimiento de alta estabilidad y bajo consumo de energía, más ahorro de energía que la luz LED normal.
Equipado con un control remoto IR, siempre que esté a 15 m de la lámpara, puede usarlo para elegir el modo que desee.
Ampliamente Aplicación para Fiestas Luminosas, Pintura de Arte, Halloween, Escenario, KTV, Bar, Club, Dsico, etc.

Paquete:
1 x 18 Leds Par Light
1 x Soporte
2 x Tornillos
1 x EU Enchufe
1 x Control remoto (sin incluir la batería)
1 x Manual del usuario

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Hello photoners! I’m looking for a very strong and durable resin (characteristics at least ABS like) for print functional parts of daily usage, any advices?

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Hello guys, i have encountered a problem that i really dont understand. I want to print thist file: https://www.shapeways.com/product/4C4LF3HXC/dwarf-druid…

In the 3D view everything looks fine. I already printed this file on an FDM printer a while back without any problems. But as soon as i slice it for the photon, a massive "column" gets sliced into it, from the buildplate to the head. I have absolutely no idea why. I tried to auto repair it in meshmixer. Exported it to .obj and back to stl in different programs. No success, it looks fine in any 3D viewer and printed without any problems in Cura.

Weird thing is: Its allways from the buildplate to the head. If i lay the model on the back, it still wents from the buildplate to the head, so it wont rotate with the file (even though the shape is different now). When i lift the whole model up from the bottom, the column still starts at the bottom. It basically connects the buildplate with a shape in the head with a solid column for no reason.

I have now idea what to do, how something like this can happen and why it doesnt happen in any other slicer or 3D program.

Any ideas?

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Will resin eat away pla or abs? Was going to make containers that are easier to get resin back in.

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I need your help guys...

Bought classic Photon some months ago. Printed some measurement models, like XYZ-Cube 20x20mm. Worked perfect since the first time using Harz Labs Model Resin colour: sand.

Photon was delivered with 4.2.3 Firmware and worked OK.

I sliced with OEM slicer and with ChiTuBox 1.30. All was fine. I was able to print the cube again and again. It succeeded every time.

After that I installed latest Firmware 4.2.12 and I installed the new ChiTuBox 1.40.

I took the XYZ-Cube and printed it. It worked NOT. The supports was sticking on the build table and the cube was printed flattened on the FEP. The cube was teared off from the printed object during the printing process and was printed flattened on the FEP.

I printed about six times with different exposure and off time, but the print fails every time.

Then I read here, that Firmware 4.2.12 is buggy. So I downgraded to Firmware 4.2.5.

Printed the XYZ-Cube again and it worked NOT. Same problem as described above.

So I do not know what to do.

Leveling should be OK. Because when leveling would not be OK, it would not print supports and base layers correctly on build plate. I am using "Easy Z0" also to level. This is a leveling tool, that makes leveling the build plate very easily and exactly. (Link: https://3dgarage.shop/…/oth…/60-easy-z0-anycubic-photon.html )

Is there a known problem with ChiTuBox 1.40 or with firmware 4.2.5?

I'm using the Photon configuration settings which was delivered with ChiTuBox 1.40.

The photon made about 15 prints in his live, so display and uv-led should be in good condition.

Can not print a test cube for every firmware version and every slicer version again. The resin would not last for that, I'm having here. So I am asking you and hoping, you have an idea for me.

Thank you for your help in advance.

Artur

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Sculpted a late period scarab and printed masters in Anycubic Green resin on the Photon, then made a mold using Reynolds MoldStar 16 and cast copies using Reynolds Onyx black resin and CastMagic metallic powders as both colorant and mold release. Ended up with a rainbow of scarabs! ?

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Obviously a lot of paper towels are used during cleanup of prints and vats, so what is the cheapest way to handle that? Would https://www.amazon.com/…/B001AZKS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V0… be good enough or do paper towels need to be a little higher quality to absorb the messes we create?

Alternatively, do you guys have better ideas for managing cleanup instead of tons of paper towels?

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Hello everyone, thanks for letting me join.

I'm a miniature designer who's looking to buy his first printer and the more I read the harder it gets to decide which model would suit me best.
While I would absolutely love to own a Form 2 or a Solus there is no way I could afford either at the moment. So I've been reading up on the cheaper alternatives!

The Anycubic Photon and it's better cousin, the Epax X1 (Which seems really hard to get a hold of in Sweden).

The biggest problem with these seems to be the smell, but I'm thinking I should be able to solve this by using different brands of resin or adding a carbon filter to the printer.

The user community for the Photon seems to be swarming with ideas on how to run it the best way and how to improve the original design, but I'm worried that the prints won't live up to my standards.
Some people say the prints are just as good as those from the Form 2, but I've yet to see proof of that.
Most prints I've seen show a lot of layer lines so I would love to be proven wrong here!

I'm going to use the machine to print miniatures at around 32mm scale plus larger busts, around 1/6 scale.

If I buy a Photon, what else do I need to get? Besides buckets of IPA that is.

Some input would be greatly appreciated here :)

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Close call, but absolute success.
(Having the chamber being heated to ~32°C, I had to use a file to remove the print from the plate...)

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I've seen so many posts about continually failed parts lately. Until yesterday I was one of them.

I was attempting to change the settings in the g-code to slow the lift speed when I realized the current website firmware release has a typo in the parameter file.
M8015 P1 and M8016 P2
SHOULD BE
M8015 T1 and M8016 T2
(The number after the last letter is a speed setting, yours may be different)

These two settings control the peel and lift speed which is why, if you have updated the firmware with your new printer, it's ripping off the plate at high speed and supports are failing.

HOW TO FIX: search for the GitHub repository within the Facebook group, download firmware 4.2.5 and follow the install instructions.

Also: download the "Updated factory default translated g-code" from the GitHub. It will explain what all the g-code means and you can use it as a direct replacement for the Chinese g-code parameter file in the firmware by replacing it on your firmware USB stick.
To change any setting at any time, all you have to do is open it in any text editor such as note pad, then save and print the gcode file on the photon (you will have to reset your zero every time you do).

SECONDLY: I sanded my built plate and realised it was 1-2mm bowed on the perimeter from the casting process (proof pictures attached). This absolutely does not qualify as "flat" and afterwards I have no parts coming off the build plate.

If after you sand your plate flat (using a piece of sandpaper placed on a sheet of glass) you are still having problems, replace your FEP film and wipe a thin layer of pure PTFE grease (no rust inhibitors like would be in bike chain lube) on the resin side of the film. This will solve all sticking issues during normal exposures and increase overall toleraces by reducing stresses. This will not affect the resin performance as PTFE is highly stable.

LASTLY: Properly tighten your Z axis rail! Search on YouTube for a how to video. Mine shipped much too loose and I wasted time getting less than expected resolution. I now have zero play and no clicking when I wiggle the plate.

I'm shocked that this thing has the good reviews that it does, it's been a nightmare. But then again most of us bought it for the pricetag, post engineering is to be... expected?

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