Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ABS

OK, so I posted this on Reddit and figured I'd post it here as well. Link to the post at the bottom:

I've been printing with no issues for a few months now. Been through a bottle of Anycubic transparant green, a bottle of Elegoo Grey and almost a full bottle of Dragon Resin... all with no issues.

The past couple weeks I've had nothing but issues(but also not enough time to sit and fully troubleshoot...)

First, it started with failures of prints that should not have problems. Things seemed to start to lose details or details were just fuzzier than normal. Then I noticed nothing would print if it were 20 micron... it would only print at 50micron. Then I ended up with a few prints that had some strange artifacts and didn't print fully.

I decided to run the Ameralabs test print and the Resin Exposure test to verify my settings. The Ameralabs didn't stick to the build plate, and the Resin Exposure tests came out strangely. I've run the 50, 30 and 20microns.

I've cleaned out the vat and retuned my FEP. I've used a secondary vat and FEP. Build plate has been re-leveled. I tried heating up the resin before printing. I'm including a few pictures... anyone have any ideas?

https://www.reddit.com/…/recent_printing_issues_can_anyone…/

Link to pictures: https://imgur.com/a/Qg2wzm9

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So Formlabs has a gray resin that they say doesn't need post UV curing. Are there any other brands like that that just come in bottles? And is there any advantages with that resin other than saving an extra step, like will the prints be less brittle?

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Hello, I'm just getting started with photon s and I'm getting some good results. But I was wondering on people's preference between anycubic and elegoo resin?

Currently I'm using elegoo abs like grey, but I'm curious if anyone has had better/different results with anycubic brand

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Best prints I've gotten so far! I think I found my right settings & support method ?

Printer: Mars Pro
Resin: Sirayatech Fast Grey ABS-like
Layer Height: 0.05 mm
Exposure: 8s
Base Layers: 8
Base Exposure: 60s
Supports: Prusa auto, Chitu manual touch-ups.
Slicer: Chitu
STL's: feel free to ask

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First post on here and fairly new to the Photon. Had no real problems with AnyCubics green and white resin. Just trying Elegoo ABS like grey resin. Cannot get it to print. I ran an XP Finder on it no problems, but running actual print it keeps sticking to the FEP, Tried two prints both same. Reset the build plate and ran the XPFinder again. tried to print again, same result. Any thoughts please.

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Firstly, sorry its my 1st go actually using the resin exposure finder method and I want to get it right before i do a 12 hour print on this new resin :D

1st photo is back lit with LED lamp, 2nd just camera night mode rather than flash.

Am i looking at 8 or 9 here perhaps? so 16/18 seconds? Seems quite high Elegoo ABS like grey resin

resin-test-50u.B100.2-20 - test as I'm planning on doing 0.005

首先, 抱歉, 這是我的第一次使用樹脂曝光方法, 我想在我在我在這個新樹脂上做一個12小時的列印之前得到它 :D

第一張照片用led燈照亮, 第二個只是相機夜模式而不是閃光燈.

我可能在這裡看8或9? 所以16/18秒? 看起來相當高elegoo腹肌像灰色樹脂

樹脂測試-50 u. B100. 2-20-測試, 因為我計劃做0.005

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My daughter wants me to print her a jaguar ring to wear. Post curing and painting, i will coat it with a gloss spray. Would that be enough protection on the skin to prevent resin absorption? Most of the stuff I print is for models that don't get much handling so I don't know what I should do for items that have long contact with bare skin.

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Hello all!

I've been printing on my photon for about 3 months now. After the initial learning curve, I thought I had everything dialed in, but now I'm not so sure. I recently tried switching to Elegoo ABS like Gray after being mostly successful with Anycubic gray. I switched because I've seen rave reviews over Elegoo Gray's level of detail and ABS like's strength, but it's been one failed print after another.

I mostly use the printer for tabletop miniatures, so I'm not printing anything huge. I ran the calibration test, and came up with a shockingly high 16s exposure time. I print in my basement, so I expect exposure times to be a little longer due to it being chilly. I then printed the Ameralabs town which came out ok, if a little overexposed and blurry looking. From then on, things got worse. I put several different miniatures, all supported using prusaslicer auto support and manual additions, on build plate and left it overnight. Waking up the next morning left me scratching my head. Half of the models were completely missing from their supports, and the other half had thin layers of resin where it seemed like a support had failed.

I've tried everything I can think of. I've releveled several times (paper and Reed method, but I get better results with paper) I've changed the FEP, I tried updating my firmware (currently on 4.2.18 I believe, I'm at work currently) and more. The funny thing is, when I went back to a bottle of anycubic transparent I had, almost everything failed in the same way, with only one usable model remaining. Please help, I'm at my wit's end!

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Hi Guys, this is going to be interesting.

So as you know I design a lot of scale parts for my RC helis - this means parts are exposed to vibration, elements, wind - the works.
So far for the small scale fittings I was doing prints on Anycubic Photon (Ameralabs and Siraya resins) and if something had more curviture or was bigger - Peopoly Moai.
FDM was used only for big parts. Now after finishing building my e3d tool changer I decided to optimized my Prusa MK3S for fine detail printing
- prints with ASA
- layer height of 0.05mm (most of my photon prints i do at 0.04 or 0.05)
- 0.15mm nozzle (so twice the diameter of Peopoly Moai laser, photon res is 0.047 by 0.047 but obviously this means aliasing)

I wanted to see how much detail I can get
And I do have to say - to a naked eye there is no loss of fidelity, even under a microscope the difference in detail is managable.

Prints have to be done with ABS or ASA (petg or pla may clog)
Benefits
- parts are lighter, the wire cutter on fdm was 3g vs 8g resin (ASA density is 1.09g/cm3 vs resin that is on 1.35,also can do very thing permiters i.e 0.45mm)
- parts are stronger

Drawback
- marginal loss of fidelity
- print times on average 3x of how long it would tool on photon with 12s exposure.

Oh, acetone smoothing on more organic parts - wow!
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嗨, 夥計們, 這會很有趣.

所以正如你知道, 我為我的rc hellis設計了很多比例的部件-這意味著部分會暴露於振動, 元素, 風工作.
到目前為止, 對於小型配件, 我正在任何立方體光子(ameralabs和siraya樹脂)上做列印, 如果有更多的曲線或更大的- peopoly moai.
Fdm只用於大部分. 現在完成了我的e3d工具更換器後, 我決定優化我的prusa mk3s, 以獲取細節列印
-與asa列印
-層高度0.05 mm (我的大部分光子印在0.04或0.05)
- 0.15 mm噴嘴(所以是人氣鐳射的兩倍, 光子res是0.047 by 0.047, 但這顯然意味著異化)

我想看看我能得到多少細節
我不得不說對赤裸的眼睛來說, 沒有失去忠誠, 即使在顯微鏡下, 細節上的差異是可以解決的.

指紋必須用abs或asa完成(petg或pla may clog)
年, %
-零件更輕盈, fdm上的電線切割機為3克樹脂(asa密度為1.09克/ cm3與1.35, 也可以做非常適合permiters i). E 0.45 mm
-部分更強

倒退
-一點點失去忠誠
-平均列印時間為3倍, 在光子上使用12 s曝光工具的時間.

哦, 丙酮在更多有機部件上滑-哇!
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Good day to all! I want to share my new project. With the modernization of our Photon S printer, I increasingly prefer 3D printing to bring my ideas to life. After the successful appearance of the first night-lamp Croc, which is in the photo below, I decided to try to create its mini-version, which will literally fit in the palm of my hand and become a cute box for tiny things. It was printed at a 20-micron layer. The 3D model is very rich in details in all planes and has a complex terrain requiring high precision resin. And #HarzLabs Model Cherry resin copes with it wonderfully, which invariably pleases with its accuracy and beauty. In addition, it looks wonderful as a material for luminous elements, this can be seen in the photographs of the big Croc, and soon you can look at this effect on the small crystals of micro-Croc when it is ready. In the meantime, here are a few of his photographs immediately after printing and removal from the supports. The approximate size of the details can be understood from the photo with the ruler (mm). 翻譯年糕