Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ABS

Hello,

I have ordered Anycubic Photon printer and Iam now searching for right resin of my application.

I need to print high quality prints for work purposes that are very demanding on negative detail precision. Basically, the prints will have texts and very thin features that are negative into the prints.

On first image, you can see print from professional 3d priner . The average width of text line(hollow) is around 0,4 mm, and I would need some resin that doesnt "bleed" light too much. I would like to achieve maximum bleed of around 0,05 mm on XY, so that it would make the negative 0,4 mm line 0,3 mm at most. Ideally even smaller bleed.

Second image is just from cad, for comparison. Again, the first picture does not look like it, but the letters are negative into the print.

Printing the letters as positive is not an option because of other processes that follows the print.

I saw Richard Shapiro mention Siraya BLU resin, which also have good reviews on US Amazon. I have also talked to Sen Kun , who recommended me Phrozen, abs-like grey resin.

Does anyone here have some more tips on more resins/setting and some processes I could use to get the desired result?

Edit: I would like to print on small Z stops, preferably 0,01 - 0,02. The first printed picture is 0,016.

Thank you very much,

Noe

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I've designed a heater mount inspired by Robert Silvers' similar heater mount. My version screws into the spot where the factory build chamber fan goes, so the fan has to be removed. I used scissors to cut halfway through the carbonized foam so that the heater wires could pass through and the foam could semi seal the electronics from the build chamber. I had to bend the tabs where the power wires for the heater jut out to get it to fit. During the install I found that routing the power wires between the wall of the build chamber and the heater mount was a real pain in the butt so I altered the design by cutting a slot for the wires to pass through to make that easy. It's version 2 in the Thingiverse page. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412210

I'm hoping to get the wiring finished up tonight so I can try out the Siraya Blu I bought.

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Hey Folks,

Got a couple of more general questions I reckon y'all may be able to help with.

I'm an Engineer, so all my experience designing stuff has been using tools like Fusion360 to do precisely dimensioned and fairly regular parts. I have ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA how to go about taking, for example, a Green Lantern (the actual light, not the character) model from Thingiverse, and trying to mod it to turn it into a little necklace charm for my wife. (Add a little loop at the top that's meaty enough to do the job, maybe tweak some of the curves, that sort of thing)

In my current workflow for stuff I design, I use Meshmixer, but only for hollowing and venting. I've had a look at meshmixer's mesh editing tools, and have only managed to destroy perfectly good models, I've never managed to actually make something nice.

Could anyone point me in the direction of a good tutorial/starting point for someone who's never worked with manipulating meshes before?

Second question, is there anyone Sydney-based who does casting and would be willing to talk about casting a little figurine as a gift for a mate? It's the mascot of a game he made, it's done quite well and I was looking at getting him a gift made. I've been playing around with prints in resin, but I don't have any gear to do casting myself, and I'd like to look at getting it done in either Stirling Silver, or maybe 18K gold. PM me and we can chat, I can send through some of the STLs I've pulled from the game.

Cheers in advance folks!

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0.035 layer
30h printtime
Resin harzlabs
Lord of the Nazgul
Model by Gambody.com

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Hello everyone! Does anyone have any details on the thermal properties of cured Anycubic UV resin?

I am trying to understand how it will cope with high temperatures, apx 250 deg C. I am planning on creating a few injection molds for ABS plastics.

Photonsters org and other sources don’t mention any thermal properties.

Grateful if anyone could give me a steer.

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Thinking about getting a Formlabs 2, anybody have both and care to comment?

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Hey. Anyone tested this one?
https://ameralabs.com/shop/amd-3-led/

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Hey guys!
Recently got my new photon: The first AmeraLabs testprint turned out fairly well, but the two thinnest rows of protruding poles are missing. (I couldn't really take a great picture of them, but it is clear that only the first 3 rows are there, the last row is completely missing, and the one before that has fine short, but bent/missing long poles. Blob is also missing on the top of the middle radio tower).
What can be done to solve this? Maybe reduce normal exposure time? I've seen pictures in the group with better detail.
Anycubic green resin,
Layer thickness: 0.05 mm,
Normal exposure time: 10 s,
Off time: 1 s,
Bottom exposure time: 50 s,
Bottom layers: 8
(I know that the cleaning is not perfect, there are small drops of resin left in some places after curing, working on that)

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Hey Photonsters! Another case study from AmeraLabs . This time we have printed a linear gear. In this article you'll find the steps we took to prepare and 3D print this model. Lets discuss: what would you do differently in this case?

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**!DO NOT BUY THIS, IT'S PROBABLY A SCAM!** Since the default UV LED sucks, for its relatively small area compared to the LCD, I've decided to replace it with a LED array with lens and maybe a diffusor. I've found this upgrade module https://labs.getshift.io/product/sla-led-array-upgrade/ . I'm not buying anything from a totally unknown shop offering only a single item, but replacing the LED chip with a module like this might be a good idea, right? I mean the print quality would rise significantly, especially further away from the center of the LCD, right?

Those who would like to buy this, beware of the statement at the end of the page: **Please note that this is a pre-order and production will start early December but as Christmas time there are delays you should receive your array before the end of January. Final product may vary in appearance in final version but will have the same, if not better, performance**

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