Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

taking it to the next level. :)

That’s amazing J.R. DeJesus well done

Mark Wardle 100%

Damo Cramp much appreciated

That looks awesome! Is the figure itself articulated or just a static print?

This is awesome! You really took it to the next level. Do you have the rest of them printed on the shelf above too?

James Witchard thanks, it’s a static piece but it is segmented for ease of printing and appearance

What printer (2D) do you have for these big prints?

Amazing ?

Amazing

Awesome!

Codey Meeks thanks & yes

Shig Bergin I print on 11” x 17” and splice the larger parts together like I use to with refacing counter tops ?

Amazing work

Haha damn great work

J.R. DeJesus that's cool as hell! You're doing a solid job on everything man. Definitely post it all finished ?

Yeah, these were on my memory stick too. Just got my Photon just over a week ago. Had similar issue where prints were sticking to FEP rather than the bed unless I releveled the bed prior to each use. I picked up the Sprectrum mobile app for my phone and tuned the FEP to around 330Hz and did a good print run yesterday without any issues after just leveling it once.

John Bkly As in tightening the FEP? I have no issues releveling every time lol

Yep, tightened the FEP and twanged it a few times while monitoring the results on the Spectrum app on my phone.

John Bkly I had no idea you could do that. Guess I’m downloading that app now lol

If you google it or look it up on Youtube, there are a few vids where they talk about it.

John Bkly Awesome! Thank you!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_wtZqBfbQ

Congratulations you are now married to photon studio. Go and Multiply ?

Most photon owners use photon to slice the files. But you can use Chitubox or Prusa for setting support and then save as stl you import into photon.

Jesper Hvid good advice, I'll give it a shot!

Is there a reason to use photon over Chitubox to slice the file?

Seriously, i dont think you can use other slicer for photon zero ?

Nathan Madche does Chitubox supports pw0?

Davor Mikola think its only .photon and .pws

Jesper Hvid I know, but Nathan Madche seems to does not...

ive writed a message about it to chitubox team in last week and they working to provide photon zero format in it ;)

Sorry I have the photon s and didn't know the original photon used a different file type

Anyway, set supports and orientation in Chitubox, exported to .stl, opened it in Photon Studio, sliced, saved as pw0 - it is printing now :)

As a bonus the quality improved afterwards, I hadn't realised it had got worse as it happened over time...

Supports came away cleaner too!

yea thats good life from a screen over a year. mine is a couple years old now. the only time i ever had something like that was from light getting into the unit. since i covered the panels i have not had the problem.

photon - S? do you have a link to where you bought the LCD?

Orignal Photon I'm afraid, not sure it the screens are the same.

Here's the link anyway:

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/....../ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i......

Having seen the difference in quality I'll be changing it periodically whether it's failed or not!

Old screen

New screen

How many hours did you have on your screen (approximately)?

I wouldn't like to hazard a guess... I can tell you it's had 14 litres of resin printed on it though!

Basically a litre a month!

Chris Crute The link you posted is to an Elegoo Mars replacement screen. Do the mars in the photon use the same screen? I mean I know all of their stats are the same, but do they have the same connector at the end of the ribbon cable?

Tom Gannon It's made by Elegoo but the title states fits photon. The connectors are different but the screen comes with an adaptor. It fits and works perfectly.

Chris Crute really good to know. On the US Amazon site there is a big price difference between the two.

I got one of these as hell of a job coping with the fact that the ribbon cable hasn't got the curve in the end.

Dean Eyre I just put a loop out the side where it comes down from the LCD then it lined up resonably well!

facing same issue now, changing resins, stirring them a lot, seems i am wrong and exchange lcd is only way.
have my photon since november

Miroslav Zajíček are you getting decent prints as well or just that?

prints are still okay, but need to clean fep after each print ( so far 3 rounds with this issue)

Sounds identical to my issue. Mine was fine until about 3 rounds before I gave up and changed the LCD.

That’s actually the first sign I know I’ve got a screen replacement to do. Running my photons 24/7 I usually start to get that at around the 4-6 month range....so you got way more than I have, but then again my machines really aren’t ever even turned off

https://memory-alpha.fandom.com/wiki/Flying_parasite

This is happening to me after only 4 months of ownership... Wondering if I should just go for it

anyone know which LCD to order for the photon-S?

Yeah, I think they got a takedown notice for copyright infringement.

Could try here https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-locke......

David Collinson i see that, thanks, but are only 3. In the series are more

Just design some yourself, they're not very complicated lol

My first look is that its a DLP printer and not MSLA, they also seem to put more time into the software for jewerly mode? Idk, it seem overpriced but there hopefully is "something"

dlp projector less maintainance. only consume bulb and fep. high price machines usually cost less on maintenance

Build quality, accurate, reliable, dlp projector instead of lcd. Professional machine vs hobby machine

For the same price you could get this. And its bigger and slightly faster. https://shop.parkdentalresearch.com/JUELL-3D-3-PDR-J3D3.htm

Photon is also a DLP printer. The big difference with this new one is that it's got a 4k resolution LCD, not 2k. But it steps at 25 microns, not 10. So better X Y resolution, possibly worse Z resolution, depending on what you print with your Photon.

Didn't see if it's a monochrome screen, which speeds up printing time and increases LCD life.

Fred Bey it isn’t actually a dlp printer, dlps project the light where needed, the photon uses an lcd to mask the light where needed

It's a DLP printer. Any LCD printer is. Some use the LCD as a mask to block light from a different source, some use the LCD itself as the light source. Both are Digital Light Projection printers.

It's certainly not SLA, since it has no lasers. S tereo lithography printers use 2 lasers that alone can't cure the resin, but where they intersect, the combined light causes curing. They are also way more than $200. lol

https://all3dp.com/1/anycubic-photon-3d-printer-review/

Enjoy............................ https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

Yes angle prints and uses supports

Generally, things are going to work better if you minimize the size of the layers above the base layers. You need lots of suction/adhesion on the base layers, but past that, too much suction will pull the model off of the plate (or tear it off of the supports), hence the need to elevate and tilt for larger models that cover more surface area.

The models I've successfully printed on the plate are small figures that include a broad, flat base and then taper significantly.

Okay... But I tried the Zombie Hunter, which looks just like that, and that failed spectacularly: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69709

Bree and Akiko remix, like said, did work, and these are also like that... But I have only tried with the transparent Anycubic resin, may not be true for opaque ones like the Druckwege gray I'm using now!

What I'm also still unsure about: Do large continuous slabs of support bases on the build plate adhere better or worse than ones that have holes in them every now and then? From a physics perspective, the latter makes more sense, cause the smaller the continous area that needs to be ripped off the FEP, the less the suction forces are - or what am I missing here?

If it's failing after your base layers, your regular exposure is too low. If it worked with one resin, it should work with all of them, once you get the settings for that resin dialed in.

The opaque resins usually need a higher layer exposure than transparent resins.

Google Photon exposure finder, and you'll have a great place to start.

Fred Bey Druckwege has run their own test and provide ideal detailed settings for every color, layer height (!) and many printers (among those the Photon and Photon S).. So I just used those!

Daniel Kottmair unless they ran their tests wherever your printer is, they are just a good starting point. Delamination means you need higher exposure.

Fred Bey True, my printer stands infront of a tilted window..

And thanks for the hint about delamination! ;-) i'm still learning so much about this..

No worries. We're all in this mess together. Lol

Lower temperatures will cause the resin to need longer exposures. Just a thought.

made in germany for sure is very good

Cant get it to work... Upped the exposure to 20 secs gradually from 12 but no luck