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Red resin. ? Used Google excel guide, but failed. What settings would the expert's recommend ? Red resin. ? Used Google excel guide, but failed. What settings would the expert's recommend ? 翻譯年糕

Anyone using siraya Blu with their Photon? What settings are you using? I'm using the settings on the Google spreadsheet and my prints are failing. The bottom layers stick on the plate, the first 5mm of support print, but the the model starts printing and that just sticks to the fep film.

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I'm having trouble with my prints using the Siraya Blue resin. I have Googled the settings to use for the different timers, set Z height several times, and I just cannot get a successful print. Anyone have experience with this resin that can point me in a good direction?

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Hi all,

I am a new photon user and I have an issue with my Photon (technique probably) which i can't figure out so i figured i would post here before contacting tech support. Currently I have only been able to do one print total (the lattice test cube) successfully, the remaining attempts (~5-6 lost count) have failed to adhere to build plate. Here is the flow of events:

Settings:

UV light: seems to work okay as it is curing the resin since i have to scrape it off and test works okay as well.

Timing: 50 seconds for lattice cube, 70 seconds for figure (initial layer)

Build plate: not sanded, added 4x1mm washers as it seemed to hit VAT during leveling

Resin: Stock green that comes with photon

Figure: rotated to about 45 deg, w/ supports. model came from heroforge. able to print on FDM

Events:

1.) First print: Level per instructions and youtube video for paper method. I print the Lattice cube - prints good enough, too many supports but okay otherwise.

2.) Second print: I go to print a D&D figurine w/o cleaning bottom of FEP which results in a no print obviously (did not think to clean it first). After the failure, I empty out the VAT and scrape off the cured resin but my desk had a spot of old glue on it and indented into the FEP. Rather than taking chances of a pin hole leak, i replace the FEP, removing the protective cover before install of the new FEP.

3.) Third print: I try to reprint the D&D figure and it will not stick to build plate. I drain and re-flat/level again using paper method.

4.) Fourth print: I try again with previous results (D&D figure). I did notice at home position it is pretty high.

5.) Fifth print: I google and try the Flint Read method of level and flaten and reprint. Same result. I did add 1mm washers to the build plate as it seemed to hit top of VAT during flaten/leveling prior to starting this print.

6.) Sixth print: I drain the resin again and make sure that the FEP is around 350hz and relevel using paper method, again with same results.

Overall, all prints aside from cube come back with no adhesion to build plate after original FEP (that came pre-installed) replaced and no popping sound on initial layers.

I am at a loss at what to do next. Maybe replace with another FEP?

Thanks in advance for any advice or tips

Brian

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Ever since getting my new resin (Anycubic skin), I've been having a problem. The prints all come out with a "raft" at the bottom, the first few layers have a bit of extra resin cured around them. I'm using the suggested settings here https://docs.google.com/…/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8…/edit…

Can anyone give me some idea as to why this is happening? A large number of my prints don't require supports (i.e. are flat pieces) but they do need to be accurate from layer 1. Anyone?

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Anyone have any luck sourcing a build plate in the US? I may need to replace my plate and I'm not having much luck. FEPshop is out of stock, plus between shipping and Euro to dollars, this is a bit expensive. I've checked eBay, Amazon, Google, etc. thanks in advance.

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So I've used up the Anycubic resin that came with the printer. For various reasons I've been using Wanhao grey resin for my latest prints and I'm trying to dial in the settings. These minis were printed with settings from the google drive doc.
0.05, 15, 1, 55, 8 using the ChitUbox slicer.

I rotated the minis quite a lot (75 degrees) for this print in order to try to save time but also due to the ranger's (right one in pic) bow.

As you can see there's some deformation on the shield and especially the rangers arm (elbow gone). Parts that were orientated towards the build plate.

I guess I'm being stupid for rotating too much? Or is there some other issue here?

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Howdy folks, first post, just unboxed my Photon (not the S) today.

I got the machine up and running fine (I think), but I went to load the test file into the slicer and.... it just opens the LCD viewer on my PC? So I can see what each individual layer will be, which is very neat, but it is opening this LCD view in a whole new window, and not at all in the Grid of the main slicer window. So I can't see what the finished product will be at all, and can't for the life of me figure out how to make it load inside the grid and not in a new window.

I've searched Reddit, Youtube, google, etc. maybe I'm just using the wrong Keywords. Anyone have any idea how to load files into the grid so i can see what they will be when done?

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Hello! I'm very new to printing. And have an anycubic resin printer. The first item I printed was a stamp for my sculptures. It came out perfect. The second items I printed was a set of small stamps. They came out warped and stuff stuck to the bottom. I cleaned the tank and printed them again with heavier support. But it didn't stick to the top anymore but to the fep plastic. All prints from then on got stuck to the fep.

I cleaned everything with ipa after every try. I changed the print settings in time bottom exposure etc. and the position of the items after googleing forums and reading about what could be the issue. Nothing helped.

The resin that I have is from wanhao Grey color. Last night I removed the fep and placed a new fep bottom. But now I'm hesitant to try it. Because I don't know what the correct settings are anymore for the wanhao Grey and if I did anything wrong with calibrating. Could it be that I had the zero to tight and the fep loosened and it created the vacuüm? Do I need to lower the top by 0.1mm after pressing home? Or something else that I forgot or could something be wrong with the printer? Any help would be very much appreciated.

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So I'm trying to understand off time. From what im reading depending on your firmware your default is either 6.5 or 4.5 sec. Setting a number lower than this in the slicer won't actually change anything other than throwing off the time estimate. If this is correct why am i seeing so many off times set below the default on the resin settings google sheet? I could assume that 1 just means use the default but 1.5-4 what would be the point? If im wrong please set me straight.

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