Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » IDE

it depends on the printer settings you will use.

Roger Munguia this is what i am using

these is the tilting you need to do depending on the z microns

I print mine upright. Also depends how many you want to print at a time. If you angle it you will only get two or three coins

Roger Munguia so i need to put it at an angle? that is better?

I would print it flat

i only need one, but i will print 2 or 3 just to safe

unless there are details on both sides

Allison Janssens there are no significant details. Flat on the build plate? r flat with supports?

Charalambos Charalambous yup

Charalambos Charalambous if you print directly on the build plate, the side in contact with the plate has to be perfectly flat, you can have details on the other side.

Charalambos Charalambous and the side on the build plate will have the texture of the build plate inprited on it, so you'll have to sand afterwards to get a nice smooth surface.

Charalambos Charalambous If you want to support the item, then print it at an angle, not flat.

Charalambos Charalambous print one upright then angle the other see which one is better and print at the same time. Two birds one stone

I printed dozens of coins (23mm diameter, 2mm thick). Flat on the build plate, no supports.. 8 coins in 15 minutes, my FDM printers are envious! 8)

I was working on the supports for this last night but the torso and head weren't solid pieces. How did you get around this?

Paul McKee I printed it upside down

Yeah, these were on my memory stick too. Just got my Photon just over a week ago. Had similar issue where prints were sticking to FEP rather than the bed unless I releveled the bed prior to each use. I picked up the Sprectrum mobile app for my phone and tuned the FEP to around 330Hz and did a good print run yesterday without any issues after just leveling it once.

John Bkly As in tightening the FEP? I have no issues releveling every time lol

Yep, tightened the FEP and twanged it a few times while monitoring the results on the Spectrum app on my phone.

John Bkly I had no idea you could do that. Guess I’m downloading that app now lol

If you google it or look it up on Youtube, there are a few vids where they talk about it.

John Bkly Awesome! Thank you!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_wtZqBfbQ

replacement, this looks bad

Thanks for the reply! I concur. I ordered a screen and it should be here Monday.

First! Amazing detail, and the Cleric is so cool.

get in this patreon was the bestidea

How would one go about swapping in a warhammer instead of a mace? I'm new to printing

Do you have a sharable album of your work?

Chris Armstrong check out "meshmixer bashkit" on youtube!

Zak Williams hello Zak! We are working on doing some facebook albums!

Wow that's awesome

Harley DeBeaudrap thank you!

Chris Armstrong thaks man!

Konstantinos Martinos oh, nice. Tyvm

https://www.facebook.com/pg/ArchvillainGames/photos here are some, uploading more

All I have left to print is the tree and some of the bases - I must have missed the Shaman :)

Thanks for supporting Joe! Shaman dropping tomorrow!

Joined!

welcome!

amazing!

Hey!
Have you some advice to print sucj nice sculpt? I always have difficulties with supports and removing them.

L'autre Moi hello! We give our patrons presupported files for Chitubox!

How long did the base take to print? Hollow I would imagine

The 4 base parts took about 12 hours if I remember right - hollowed and printed 2 parts at a time - around 6 hours per plate.

Those are freakin' bad-a$$!

thanx man!

Konstantinos Martinos I don't even play the game and I'm considering joining just to get those models! ? ? ?

Jesse DeGraff haha we do a lot of diorama stuff too i m sure you ll dig our gig!

Joe Wolf Ritchie did you hollow yours?

These are absolutely stunning! Love ❤️ !

Megan Raynak thanx Megan!

I hollow all but the smaller parts.

Adam Huenecke here

What are the scale of these?

Jeremy Swigart they are considered "large" for 32mm gaming

Think about Lift speed

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

what are your exposure settings (base and normal, IE 60sec & 8sec)? Was the model on the build plate or was it placed on supports?

Hello Tim. Both were placed on supports. First one was straight, second was inclined. Both were 40s & 8s, which was matching the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings.

Hi Merv, thanks for pointing out this resource I didn't know. More reading and testing for me! ;)

Remi Barbarin that first image looks like it should be a flat bottom rather than wavy. Without seeing your support configuration (perhaps not enough, causing the part to flex), there could be under exposure as well which will make the part more soft and flimsy. I'd check the supports to see that they are dense enough and maybe try increasing the exposure time by a second or two if that doesn't help.

Thanks Tim. Will check that out on the next builds. It's very possible I didn't use enough support.

Some useful reading..For what its worth I reckon to angle both ways off the build plate so tip back and slightly sideways if that makes sense..30 degrees off flat and maybe 10 degrees tilt..supports I do auto 50% in chitubox then go around,delete stuff in the wrong place but do all around the edges,corners especially and all extremities...partly to force the resin to print there and partly for support..I think temperature plays a great part 25c minimum, 20% inclusion of a flex type resin will help reduce brittleness , resin brand / type / colour I don't think there is a great deal of difference to be honest..A base colour that will help with painting is as good a guide as any...for me...and yes,some guys always print flat off the buildplate some never have buildplate issues, some never have to change a FEP and some never have failed prints...These people I salute..I'm not that good..or that lucky..or I'm a bit more truthful....Just tickle along quietly and learn from the ones that didn't work..because when it does...Oh Boy :) ..

This Guy is worth listening to : https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

Remi Barbarin "the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings" also indicates that it is a reference setting and (environment) temperature can be of influence...
Possibly a combination of not enough support and under-exposure.... (under exposure keeps it soft, suction will do the rest with the unsupported parts)

Honestly, I haven’t found resin to be good for perfectly flat requirements. I mean, you really wouldn’t want to make anything mechanical with this stuff.

Don't print it flat on the bed. The suction twist the "bottom layers"

would not worry about it. printing directly of the bed is where the base of supports are and those are throw away. so alsong as the models stick and tbh the pics look fine.

i tend to print miniatures directly of the base as the base. again the pics look great. :)

I print a lot off the bed as well, and it's just bad enough that it triggers my OCD. :) I'm printing a better test object now - this is my first Anycubic, so my first go with the bed mount / leveling mechanism.

Man, you're asking a 400€ printer to be as accurate as a 26 000 one. Guess what ?

John Driggers I mean, I wouldn’t say it’s OCD until you’re up at 3 AM printing your 20th imperfect cube because you’re afraid your house might catch on fire if you don’t.

No, I'm asking that it be as accurate as a $299 one a single axis. The $26k one I get 0.025mm out of on three. :)

Ah, I see your problem. Your test equipment is too good! Use cheaper and less accurate verniers and the problems will go away ;)

Also, this is a good solution. There are others out there that do the same thing, and on thingiverse if you want to make your own (metal is smarter to use then resin). Set this right, and making sure the photon itself is level to start with, and it'll eliminate that discrepancy pretty well

https://www.fepshop.com/....../anycubic-photon-easyz0-kit/

That looks a lot like what I want - thanks David !

John Driggers Teh you're already as accurate as you can be with a photon. Now if you want something a little better, take a better resin. The machine itself can't get better than that.

David, do you know off the top of your head if the Zero and the "Normal" Photon mounting heads are the same size? I'm not at the house yet....

John Driggers not off the top of my head, no.

agreed. I recommend SPI. Or as we in the machining world like to call them Sorta precision instruments.

It's a chinese printer, use chinese gauges!

Resins have properties FYI, shrink age and elongation. Unavoidable. Some companies clearly state those properties, some dont. The printer itself is not the issue, the resins are.

Try leveling your entire machine, then level the bed. Leveling the bed really only makes it flush in regards to the build plate, but if the machine isn't level, nothing will be...liquids need to be level to the world, the build plate only needs to be level in regards tot he bed

David Collinson just an FYI - not the same, nor the same mechanism. I was able to carefully tune most of it out by repeatedly leveling and retightening. Gonna try and figure out what’s causing it and see if I can come up with a solution.

You think it's the resin that causes one half of the print to be thicker than the other?

you are fighting with exposure(over/under) and bed leveling, best way to avoid those is to put 5mm supports on it.

I had the same problem. I kept leveling and always the same issue. After the first layer it would loose its leveling. Doesn’t matter how much I tighten the top screw! I installed the easy leveler with some adjustments and the problem is solved