Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » HMI

HI, please help me..., I tried to print tonight, when it done i knew i miss a thing, and voilaa..., it lays at the FEP ? , what happened? Beside, i found layer lines that I didn't expect would be that big/visible at 0.02 layer height, maybe more angle would better?, and then, i found vertical & horizontal line at the object that i didn't see at the file, what software/program can detect it? I use sketchup, netfabb and meshmixer but cannot detect it

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Sometimes the 3d model you download needs a little refinement one of the easiest ways is Meshmixer it has lots of power to set up your model for 3d print. Ed White here was in a little to tight space suit so I'm letting some of the air out by making impressions with the "Sculpt Brush. I'm sure Ill start all over but these things take time.

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Anyone out there got some good settings for the anycubic white resin? I know i should do the exposure test but i am getting some crazy results, like 20s for ac clear. Also are the supports better with netfabb meshmixer or the peopoly one, i read they all should be pretty accurate. I would print something very small where the anycubic slicer doesnt place anything. Thank you

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Apologies for asking but I’m completely stumped. I am trying to convert an .obj file (mesh) to a solid of any file format (STL, STEP or anything). I’ve tried the following with no luck:

Meshmixer (it just exports a mesh even though it says that is is solid),

FreeCAD - too many faces

GrabCAD - crashes

Solidworks - too many faces

+many more

Can anyone help please - iv Googled the hell out of it and tried lots of programs. I’m downloading a trial of sketchup to see it that will work.

I need to end up with a solid in inventor that I can edit.

Grateful for a steer, thank you.

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Its coming along:) this is straight of the of the printer tight after removing the supports before uv curing. I still need to sand some bits off.

I still figuring out physical mesurement for parts since some of the fingers at that size were really really frail and I broke one while cleaning it with ethanol. I am think building reference bounding box for the minimum size I can go down before become too small and frail what you guys think? It would help prevent on top of consiouly adapt my sculpting for those cases.

A lot of printing and testing these days more to come!!

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Managed to actually get a reasonable scan out of Scandy Pro of my son :D Anybody know of any tutorials to get it into something printable? I've used meshmixer a decent amount and can repair a few holes but obviously there's a lot missing and the techniques I know are falling short :)

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Hi everyone. I got a new laptop recently, and it didn't came with 3d builder (weird?), which I use to repair stls, as per the advice of this community.
I downloaded and installed it, and when I go to repair the first model, it doesn't. I click, and the error keeps appearing. A fast Googling didn't help much in the matter.

So I ask, does anybody know a fix to this problem?
Or better yet, is there a software that does the repair in the same fashion? I got meshmixer and b9creator already installed, if those help...

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LOVING white resin!

Supports done in MeshMixer and they work like a dream.

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Hey guys I need your intput.

I am currently doing female/male insert keys for my split model parts.

I wanted to know if you had a trick for mesure tolerance for smooth insertion based on the phyical scale of the model keys?

I am currently using zbrush,meshmixer,chitubox and flashprint. I wouldnt mind using another one if it would help out with that.

Thank you all!

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having great luck with the Anycubic Orange.

.025 layer
15sec normal
1 off time
100 bottom exposure
7 bottom layers

The key for me after every print, reset the platform z height. I can get away with .05 layers mutliple prints, but anything below I need to reset the Z-hieght, which only takes a minute. The resin has been in the vat for a few weeks - I just stir it, add a bit more and go. I also put on a mask and put my ear really close the first few layers to ensure I'm hearing the snap of the print pulled off the vat. If it doesn't, I scratch the print.... which doesn't happen often.

This print was my longest yet (roughly 15 hours) using the above settings. Note: I only angled the print about 25 degrees... it was putting too many supports at 45. I also added four drain holes in meshmixer when hollowing:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BuMIWT6Hr_f/…

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