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Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » PID

原文網址 Jean-Jacques Pasquin
2020-01-28 10:25:56

Can anyone confirm that the 1/3 mark the “fill” mark in the photon vat is about 120ml of resin?

Got this value from
From the video of spidiq8 on YouTube “anycubic photon resin printer Pt2, leveling & preparation for printing”

Just trying to know if I need to refill or not on large prints before hand

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Paul West
2020-01-28 11:35:34

Jean-Jacques Pasquin
2020-01-28 19:50:13


原文網址 Daniel Kottmair
2020-01-27 17:42:18

Hello everyone! I'm an old FDM-Veteran learning about how (M)SLA printing works, and I must say it's quite a challenge and a hell of a messy process.. I have read the FAQ in full and already learned quite a few things, so thanks for that!

Right now I'm fighting with getting my prints to stick to the build platform. I have managed to do some prints and I do know to avoid cross sections of my print that are bigger than the bottom layers to always keep the suction forces lower than that of the bottom layers (via model rotation or hollowing it out), but there's still things I do not fully grasp, such as the relation of normal vs bottom layer exposure times (how many bottom layers are recommended and how long should the exposure time be?) and if bottom layers should rather be one huge flat slab or rather have some holes inbetweeen to reduce suction forces.

Also, I do kinda wonder why there are so few settings you can play with in regards to layer thickness and/or exposure times. F.ex. I'm really missing variable layer height such as from the Prusa Slicer (which does SLA now, too, but not for the Photon!) or the option to make the bottom layers (also the bottom supports) thicker than the rest to improve stickyness and/or speed up printing. It just seems utterly stupid and pointless to also print the bottom layers in superfine 0.025mm resolution, especially when they're set to 60 seconds exposure...

翻譯年糕

Roger Munguia
2020-01-27 18:23:32

Chris May
2020-01-27 19:05:49

Daniel Kottmair
2020-01-27 20:10:48

Daniel Kottmair
2020-01-27 20:13:14

Roger Munguia
2020-01-27 20:18:46

Daniel Kottmair
2020-01-27 20:47:04

Roger Munguia
2020-01-28 01:08:49


原文網址 Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 12:55:18

TL;DR models cracking.

Ok wtf,

I have been using Monocure 3d rapid grey, after alot of tweaking found some good settings. I then bought some Monocure 3d 100 Flex resin. I mixed the 2 at a 75/25 ratio respectively.

I printed Baalzarodan by Artisans Guild, pieces were coming out perfectly, details are amazing, has an almost ABS feel, removed all supports under warm water and next to no marks. The models are also being hollowed with 2.5mm walls, atleast 3 drain holes top and bottom.

I have gone away for the weekend, came home to find the models cracked to pieces along the layer lines.

Any advice, ideas? I am proper disheartened now, as printing at 100% scale, I have dropped about 30 hrs so far.

Pics attached. Sorry for length of post.

翻譯年糕

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 12:58:00

Alan Bullard
2020-01-27 12:59:22

Joey Smith
2020-01-27 13:01:53

Tim Allen
2020-01-27 13:02:17

Joey Smith
2020-01-27 13:03:02

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 13:04:08

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 13:05:40

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 13:06:42

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 13:06:51

Luke Pettit
2020-01-27 13:13:25

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 13:13:58

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 13:15:23

Joey Smith
2020-01-27 14:11:23

Ben Brooks
2020-01-27 14:15:19

Alexander Bayerdorffer
2020-01-28 00:39:06

Kyle Telechan
2020-01-28 05:24:32

Ben Brooks
2020-01-28 05:26:00

Ben Brooks
2020-01-28 05:26:53

Kyle Telechan
2020-01-28 05:27:52

Ben Brooks
2020-01-28 05:29:14

Joey Molnar
2020-01-28 14:19:37


原文網址 Ray Sears
2020-01-27 09:38:45

I print mostly minis for table top gaming and I am having issues with brittleness. Right now I am using Anycubic grey and I am looking to mix in some more flexible resin but looking for some advice.

The Monocure Rapid FLEX100 seems like a good choice since it seems to be effective at only 15% but the reviews talk about it having a very strong odor. My printer is set up in my home office closet and I have it venting into the attic with a inline duct fan so it is pretty well ventilated. The attic is ventilated and if needed I can run the closet vent through the roof but I'm worried if that is strong will I smell up the whole house. Anyone have any experience with this resin and it the smell that strong?

The other one I'm looking at is the Tenacious flexible resin from Siraya Tech. It is half the price but looks like it take higher mixture but what concerns me is it wants to print a 25C and my house it usually around 22C and I am not ready to modify my printer to add heat or heat up my whole hous the that temp. Has any printed at lower temps and did work OK?

Thanks in advance and please let me know if I'm missing any other options.

翻譯年糕

Sara DeWitt
2020-01-27 09:41:22

Karol Bukowski
2020-01-27 09:42:27

Michael Houx
2020-01-27 09:42:32

Tom Franco
2020-01-27 09:42:56

Jarin Udom
2020-01-27 09:44:53

Jamie Ott
2020-01-27 09:45:41

Robert Maefs
2020-01-27 09:59:51

Ray Sears
2020-01-27 10:13:40

Michael Fox
2020-01-27 10:45:30

Justin Hardman
2020-01-27 11:14:34

Paul West
2020-01-27 12:11:39

Ray Sears
2020-01-27 12:12:32

Justin Hardman
2020-01-28 07:14:36


原文網址 James Tanner
2020-01-27 08:24:50

Hoping you fine folks can help me with some tuning.

I've had a Photon for years now (one of the original ones, with the blue windows) and it's been printing great the while time. Recently, though, I picked up a Photon S to play around with as well.

Thing is, I just can't get the S to print as well. Most of what I print is miniatures (thanks HeroForge!) and have gotten decent at rigging supports for them. On the original Photon, the supports (medium-ish) snap off cleanly every time with very minimal fuss and very little surface scarring. Quick, easy, very little detailed-snipping required.

On the S, though, the same supports are rigidly stuck to the model and need to be cut free. They also often leave deep pits and scars. If I drop down to light supports, they seem to work a _bit_ better, but I get a lot of "globbing" (bits of the model, on the side near the plate, are just a blobby, indistinct mess.)

Here's what I've tried so far:
- Used a RERF to fine-tune the resin. I can barely see any difference between any of the tiles whatsoever.
- Turned down the curing time to 12s (down from 15s on the original)
- Used original .photon files AND the new .photons files.

What I'm using:
- The latest version of ChiTuBox
- Monocure Rapid Blue

I've also noticed that the prints that come off the S look different. They're much shinier, even after cleaning and drying, than the originals. Though, I don't know if this is good or bad.

I know the S has a different light on it and is expected to cure a bit faster. But what other changes should I be trying? If you've gone from an Original to an S, what settings did you find you needed to tweak?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I keep trying prints from both machines at the same time, but end up keeping the one from the original every single time. :(

翻譯年糕

James Tanner
2020-01-27 08:55:54


原文網址 Chris Rogers
2020-01-26 10:21:07

Just wanted to share good find at Walmart.
Foil Oven Rack Liner. $4.55 for 2
Great for under Photon. Even better when finishing prints.
Everything wipes up no sticking.
Right now using rapid flex 100 very sticky.

翻譯年糕


原文網址 Barry Storey
2020-01-25 03:08:46

I started printing a multy piece figure and come to realize I don't have enough transparent green to complete it. Now I have some Monocure 3D rapid clear and the transparent green is from Nova3D. an I mix the two together to sreach out the green( there will be more clear than green). I'm cheap and don't want to buy another bottle of green. ?

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Barry Storey
2020-01-25 03:12:06


原文網址 Sean Howard
2020-01-24 23:53:06

Is this a bed leveling issue or a hollow cavity filled with resin issue? Or something else entirely. The thorax of the spider should be attached. Also there is a hole at the base of the thorax and one at the front bottom.

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Chad Elstad
2020-01-24 23:54:57

Sean Howard
2020-01-25 00:12:51

Danny Lloyd
2020-01-25 00:13:16

Sean Howard
2020-01-25 00:25:22

Danny Lloyd
2020-01-25 00:27:53

Chad Elstad
2020-01-25 00:54:37

Mark Wardle
2020-01-25 05:23:14

Neil Castle
2020-01-27 04:24:15

Sean Howard
2020-01-27 08:02:49


原文網址 Harm Cremer
2020-01-24 23:32:59

Maybe a stupid question, but is it super important for a Photon to stand on a super stable surface (like it is for a normal 3D printer), or is there not a lot of movement generated?

I would like this to become the stand for the Photon. With my own DYI integrated UV drying chamber ?

翻譯年糕

Tucker Edward Loper
2020-01-24 23:34:43

Harm Cremer
2020-01-24 23:35:21

Nipuna Gunarathne
2020-01-24 23:41:46

Harm Cremer
2020-01-24 23:45:02

Thomas Verburgt
2020-01-24 23:46:10

Lee Perry
2020-01-24 23:47:35

Harm Cremer
2020-01-24 23:50:19

Simone Ornati
2020-01-24 23:52:00

Simone Ornati
2020-01-24 23:52:54

Harm Cremer
2020-01-25 00:02:00

Harm Cremer
2020-01-25 00:02:59

Nipuna Gunarathne
2020-01-25 00:03:31

Justin Andrews
2020-01-25 00:24:51

Harm Cremer
2020-01-25 00:30:15

Harm Cremer
2020-01-25 00:37:38

Justin Andrews
2020-01-25 00:48:21

Harm Cremer
2020-01-25 00:54:37

Kevin Piatz
2020-01-25 18:33:50


原文網址 Mikel Deiman
2020-01-23 03:38:08

OK, i want to give my Elegoo ABS like rapid grey ( https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FF5VQ8R/ ) a second try on my Photon (non-S)
setting up my Chitubox profile according to the resin sheet ( https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?fbclid=IwAR0HRmDv2KshJlvCQeAqPH5tj0gWeDlgzvbMnDYIUGR9Ivje2KmYCl5kkFI&sle=true )
Going for standard 0.05 layer height. Can anyone confirm if these settings are all correct? Or do i need to make any adjustments? 翻譯年糕

Joel Mendoza
2020-01-23 03:40:05

Leo ZuLu Geo
2020-01-23 03:41:53

Nipuna Gunarathne
2020-01-23 03:47:16


 

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