Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Took a few high tech unbelievable expensive super duper over the top machines to print these tiny little structures. And some fucked up old electron microscope you have to kick to make it work.
And then it turned out to be an almost perfect, almost no visible layering on the sub micron level, hardcore bad ass print.
Voxel size is 0.3 micron = 300 nm = 0.0003 mm, nominal layer height 100 nm, stepped by piezo drive.
Technique is 2 Photon Polymerisation, you can find some nice videos on that on YouTube (e.g. https://youtu.be/mdup3w7DCZE ).

I am about to sneak in a dragon to print or something... Video of live printing will be added soon.

Printing took about 15 minutes per structure.
Most are hollowed with internal support structure, no vent holes ;) each is about 80 micrometer in height, pics don't show the scale so good.

Also hive mind.. these structures shall serve as height and angle standards, somehow for electron microscopy. Has anybody another good idea to combine height and angular measures, in a compact shape or structure, or an array of scaled tiny somethings? Task is to probe these structures from above and to reconstruct the found heights and angles later on. Right now half sphere and standard pyramid are my favorites.

Enjoy some nanoscience :)

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Expert for point cloud, surface to volume needed.

I am having a hard time converting a high-detail data set, 16 million points.
So right now I am trying to convert in Meshlab.
Going to Filters -> point set -> compute normals, then I go to Filter -> Reconstruction/Remesh -> Screened Poission Surface Reconstruction

It works to the point, that i have the points converted to a surface mesh. But with this 2D, super flat, surface mesh I am not able to convert it to a solid in meshmixer for example.
It ends up with a lot of wrong volumes, spikes, and general computation error.

a) Any other routine, from point cloud to full volume body, nicely triangular mesh?
b) How to convert the surface to volume / fill up the empty parts on the bottom.

Blender crashes, couldn't find the make volume button in meshlab, meshmixer shows some wrongly flipped normals, can't solidify it properly.

Any input highly appreciated.

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Long time no print.
Fired up the machine, zeroed tight, and worked like a charm. PC got formatted so time to switch to ChituBox v1.3.0.
Really like the auto arrange feature there and the project save function.

Work colleague asked to copy "one" of these mini handles, 3 mm diameter rod 8 mm long, with a 2x2x2 mm adapter cube for a fire brigade truck's ladder.
I said, one is a little bit tricky, let's see what I can do ?

0.06 mm@12s, Funtodo black with some AC white. Medium support standard chitu settings.
Was the easiest support trim off since a long time, great job chitunians!

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Blast from the past, 2011.
Just thought you guys n gals might enjoy this very cool solar 3d printing.

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Christmas = too many projects...

Here are some name + car brand desk stand, 4 at once galore.
Thanks to someone mentioning windows 3d Builder. Basically, drag and drop a cleaned 2 color logo, or better 1 color on transparent .png background. Tinker some primitive box as a stand, emboss a name on it, save to .stl, process as normal.

0.1 mm layers, 14s, 50s on 5 base layers.

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Groot and Venom wanna play ?

FunToDo IB, 0.02 mm (10s) on the minis, first time printed 0.1 mm (16s) on the animal zoo. Deer anthelas and venom printed without support.

All should be scaled to H0 mini train size to go as a present for christmas. All models are found on the thingiverse.

There were 3 failed attempts all due to bad leveling, only half made it, squashed first layers and one no sticker to the plate. I can confirm the paper tight = slightly forced down while adjusting the plate itself, able to pull it out with little resistance but not able to push it back.

Will try some priming tomorrow see how that looks.

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Work in progress.
Tank heating coming.

Electronics working, waiting for the heat pockets to adhere, some time left to clean the rails grease the baby up and pre heat the resin.

Note to whom is about to ask, fkkn whyyy?
Guys at my place there is no specific reason to do this, I like playing with electronics n stuff. My idea is to have highly reactive, low viscosity resin during printing, maybe in favor of lower exposure times. I plan to test printing at 35-45°C.
Also I have some photoinitiator standing around, which I want to test in different concentrations at different temperatures.

It may come in handy for people living in cold places idk. Right now all my resins sit on the room heating at 35°C, and my machine has the rear vents blocked the UV fan turned upside down, now sucking air in, chamber fan removed, which gives also 35-38°C while printing, works well no damage to the screen so far.

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High performance FunToDo Industrial blend red.
I used 0.05 mm layers @12s normal exposure, 35s base exposure, 5 layers.

Have to love that stuff, was about to tinker with object scaling or even LCD resolution for the anycubic white.
Now I have my first nested cube fitting out of the FTD IB resin :)
Also printed some PCB casing, buttons fit perfectly, not on the AC white casing.

The object feel is very nice, they definitely have added some flex part. You get kind of a soft touch surface, smooth but feels a very little bit rubbery, I like it. Compared to other resin parts which feel like blank plastics from the press.

Sorry for dark images.
Still working on my cleaning skills, some residues got into after curing.

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X-Mas production started.
Still finetuning, but getting somewhere with
http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
Make sure you set the image settings to "positive". Standard settings for 3 mm max thickness work out of the box.
Unlucky on one corner of the last piece.
Anycubic white 0.04mm @ 12s.

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Important: When changing your FEP film check for protection layers and remove one sticky film on each side of the new FEP if it has them.

Your new FEP may have these layers or not depending on batches they send out, so check carefully.

FEP-Test: Take your filled vat, pour the resin into another container, put the vat tilted like stand it on the long side, watch the residue resin flow out.
FEP film = will almost leave no drops, only a few, behind, vat bottom is clear within 5-8Minutes.
Protective layer = drops form and stay on the film, resin hardly flows down, still in there after 10-25Minutes, resin film stays behind.

There instructions on the back of the packing, of the original anycubic replacement, is short and misses a vital point.
Although I expected that there is some sort of cover, it was impossible to split layers. As the new FEP sheet came packed inside a soft sleeve wrapper I thought I am good to go and installed it.

Well there is a protection layer on the FEP, on both sides. So make sure you split your new film into three layers and remove the outer ones, see the videos.

I printed 500 layers on the protection sheet until everything stuck to the vat, now i removed the protection layers and remounted the fep.

Check the fep tension on delivery, you may need to tighten the screws on the bottom of the vat if they got too loose due to transportation.

FEP tension (use any music tune app):
Sweet spot as per Sen Kun is around 250-375Hz.

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