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it's hard to think that this was my 1st complete design and 3d print.

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Look at this great job Jim Hansen did on my 3d print. The guy diffinatly knows how to build models. This is a resin print of the Atlas missile that carried the Mercury Space Capsule into orbit. Anycubic Photon S, Anycubic Gray resin time to print aprox 85 hrs.

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There; one more model completely design. The 1/48 scale Atlas missile and Mercury capsule.

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okay this is a very rough stacking but I don't want to pressure fit everything together because this is going to a customer but here is a final assembly video of the atlas.
I've been designing in 3D the rocket itself was printed on the anycubic photon classic printer in anycubic grey resin and the yellow stand was printed on the creality Ender 3 with hatchbox yellow filament. up till now the entire project has been in the works for 3 months to print the model would take approximately 4 days on 2 printers.

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Ok so what good is it to pour that much reaserch and time into trying to faithfully represent the exseuite 1950's streamline engineering of the Atlas ICBM and not at least make the most shallow attempt at some representation of its launch cradle?
I think a big part of what we all love about watching the launch is watching the augmentation of the arms that hold the vehicle down and feed the vehicle its information.
Here I've decided to make it the best of both worlds the Atlas of course is completely produced in resin the stand is just too brittle to hold this monster up so i elected to go with a filament type print.
this material is PLY and with this structure much stronger than resin.
In the first day of that deals you see the original stand in the back with the white parts this just not have enough detail to represent the overall look at the model so I completely rebuilt it with more accurate detail.
And again this is most of the start and stop that you must do to complete this kind of a project

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Has anybody replaced they're anycubic Photon S screen yet? I got the new screen but already I noticed the difference that it has two parts to the cable but when I plugged it in and ran it through the UV detection it did not work. Anyone got any suggestions?

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Okay sometimes I do things out of necessity sometimes I do things to experiment this time it was a little bit of both.
When you change your curing screen out it's intuitive to use electrical tape to hold the new screen in. Which I have done over the last six screens yes I print that much but this time I decided to use cellophane tape packaging tape and I'm getting excellent performance.
I started noticing parts dropping off of the stands or not having adhesion to the plate and I couldn't help but think that everything just look like the build plate was not touching the glass even though when I use paper to level the plate everything seemed normal except that I was trying to do it on top of electrical tape.

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Does anyone have any reliable settings for anycubic black resin? I have been resin printing for over a year with almost no problems but I cannot find settings to get anycubic black to work.

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I guess even when Im not building actual models I am building virtual soon to be actual models. Sorry for the bad audio and lighting. Im more concerned with the print ability of this model right now. This is all part of making all the parts work together as well as visually accurate.

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