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This had happened a couple time prior, but did the same fail twice in a row yesterday.

Print starts fine. Print is on the print bed. All is normal then the print bed just stops traveling up the Z and just sits there. Layer after layer continue to expose, but the build plate just won't move up.

I am using a replacement thumb drive. I have done no firmware updates as the printer had been working fine.

Any ideas would be great...

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So, do we have any solid, proven options for our Photon similar to Octoprint? I us a PI and Octoprint on both my FDM printers and love it. I especially love being able to check in from downstairs. I know NanoDLP exists, but is it any good? Are there other options? Thanks for your thoughts in advance....

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Just modeled some reproduction wheels for Matchbox cars (I restore diecast cars) and printed them using of course, my photon (Anycubic Black Resin). They look great and fit like a champ! I'm so thrilled!!!!

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I see a lot of talk about the FEP here. Which is best, which is cheapest, etc. Too often IMHO, the FEP is discounted as an expensive sheet of plastic - it is far more than that, so I wanted to share some info on the FEP that will explain my reasoning for spending a bit more on my FEP…

Resin printing (both DLP and SLA) is an interesting process that requires extremely strict material requirements. Films made from fluoroplastics FEP meet all these requirements in a cost-effective manner.

One of the problems of the process is relatively high pull-off forces after layer generation. The surface of the" working top ", i.e. the bottom of the resin vat must therefore be anti-adhesive against a wide variety of materials. In addition, it must not release any chemical compounds or particles to the liquid nor be attacked by it, i.e. it must be as chemically inert as possible. High mechanical stability against abrasion is just as desirable as a smooth and flat surface and certain stiffness.

A good FEP brings properties of high optical transparency and low friction. This allows for the ultraviolet light to penetrate into the resin, then after the layer has hardened, the build plate can move away pulling the hardened resin away from the FEP film.

To quantify the FEP as a sheet of plastic is a mistake that could payoff through failed prints, or worse - a failed FEP! Every single layer of every single print has two things in common, the build plate and the FEP. It seems illogical to cut a corner on the FEP. Everyone has the right to decide for themselves, and I’m not posting this to say anyone is right or wrong. I am simply providing you with information so you can decided for yourself if the potential savings are worth the potential pitfalls.

Enjoy and happy printing

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So, I ordered some FEP's from the fepshop.com. I order their HD FEP and so far so great. It's very clear, hasn't clouded at all, and it seems the cured resin really has a hard time sticking to it as I very rarely hear the snap as the print head raises up.... Just an FYI.... (No. I have no connection to them at all)

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advice on positioning please....

I'm printing some replacement wheels for a Matchbox car. I printed a bunch flat and their ok, but the bottom that was against the build plate is dead flat and lost its detail. These are super small so I didn't think it would ba an issue....

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I said I would post a better pic today, so here it is....

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Ok.... Here is a bunch of stuff....

Changed my FEP to an HD FEP from the FEPshop.com. It was super clear and when printing, there is none of that "Thwunk" sound from the print peeling off of it (I actually thought the print was failing). I have printed 4 prints. Two cam out amazing, and two failed but it wasn't the FEP.

As to the two fails, I had a print fail because the printer stopped moving up the Z Axis after about an hour. It just kept exposing layers in the same spot. The very next print (different model) printed perfectly). After those two, I tried a variant (re-sliced) file of the successful model and it failed in the same manner, where it stopped moving up on the Z after about an hour. I restarted the print using the exact same file and it printed perfectly. I'm so confused.

Does the printer need some time to kind of read the files before hitting print? I'm using an aftermarket USB that has an image of the original on it. I'm slicing in the Anycubic photon slicer.

It just feels like the printer didn't get all the slice info in the first pass as the exact same file prints fine on a second attempt. I really don't understand why every other print is failing and then the very next one prints great. It most certainly has to be something between the files, USB, and the the machine reading the files, right?

Help!

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I'll take and post better pics tomorrow along with some cool info and and some questions, but here is my print of Notre Dame-Reims....

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So, this was odd and I was hoping you all might have an idea as to what happened.

about 2 hours in, print was going great. Went to check on it and the build plate just stopped moving up. The screen would go layer to layer but the Z Movement - nothing.

I canceled the print and went to the move screen and it went up, pretty as you please, with a great, until it stopped moving up, print stuck to the build plate.

I'm scratching my head on this one. I'd like to hear from you all before I start any other prints....

Thanks in advance....

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