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You will have problems achieving this kind of precision if you're not using dental resins, and even with those you'll have to take some light diffusion into account. Mine typically get around 0.1 mm wider with proper exposure.

You also don't want to print directly on the bed because first layers will be overexposed and you'll end up with a visible lip.

So I should adjust the dimensions to make room for error.

Palcu Alex You will inevitably have to. You can play with your exposure settings to get as close as you can but you'll never be able get it perfect. That is even before you consider some shrinkage from curing into account.

Ok. Thank you for help!

I made another test and those are the results:
-a 5mm hole can fit a 4,5 mm cylinder tightly, like it's glued
-a 5mm hole can fit a 4,4mm cylinder with a light grip when i turn them
-a 5mm hole can fit a 4,3mm cylinder beeing just right, not tight, not lose
A 4,6 cylinder won't fit and from 4,2 down, it's starts moving inside.
I used 17s normal exposure time.

Sounds about right. If you measure the 5mm hole and 4.5mm cylinder with a vernier you'd probably get 4.75 for each, meaning a .125 mm error on each side. That's about what I'm getting as well. If you're going to print significantly different sizes to that you'd probably have to test for resin shrinkage too.

I don't have the right tools to measure that precise but I figured this should work. ?

Palcu Alex If you're going to be printing precision stuff I'd recommend investing into a solid digital vernier, you can get pretty good stuff for about $30.

I tried to print this but they didn't fit. Otherwise I don't bother that much for precision. It has enough precision for my taste.

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I can see window light reflecting in your video so you might consider closing the blinds. That uv will start curing your resin and mess up your prints

I have heard before that the window doesn't fully block uv but in could be wrong. Probably just opening the door with ambient light will mess up your prints tho.

I will put the printer somewhere darker.

Palcu Alex whatever works best. It's probably not unheard of to cover your windows or some have used the anycubic shipping box to block the light for printing

That can be also an idea.

I saw the same film-like cured resin on the FEP after drain the residual resin from the tank. This happened to me when I change the FEP. I supoose that too loose FEP sticks to the screen and resin cured on the FEP due to the heat generated from screen. Just control the tension of FEP or If you use transparent resin fill little bit resin to the tank and observe the surface of FEP. If FEP sticks to the screen you can easily realize that.

The FEP is always sticked to the screen when I pull the vat out. I will try and tension it more. I didn't do anything to it since i got the printer. I just started printing and thought that it should be ready to go. Can the FEP get loose over time?

Palcu Alex I'm not sure it happens by time but I just forgot to peel off the protective layer before change the FEP and adjust it with protective layer. Then I pull off the protective layer but this time never adjust the tension and film-like layer occ ured after printing. Also I can feel the heat on FEP after printing. So you can contol it too. Or maybe fill less resin and add by time. It could stick due to the high resin load.

Palcu Alex I believe in the manual it even sais to check the FEP that it is tight before starting to print.....

Did you not even do that?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4207776

It sounds tight, like a drum. I admit that I didn't check.. I thought that it's ready for use.