ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » CES

Nightlight3

This is probably the most complex part I have designed so far, and it took me 3 tries to print it successfully.

The first print finished OK in about 11 hours, but I had an internal design error that I did not notice from the outside, and the curved surfaces were too thin. So I fixed that and printed again. This time, because of thicker walls, the print needed about 14 hours. But a power failure stopped the printer after about 11 hours. (High winds in Southern California knocked some trees into power lines.) It finally printed OK the third time in just over 14 hours.

Photo1 is the part by itself, right off the printer. The inner surface comes to a point, but of course no printer can print that. So I used a small file to make the point look like photo2. Photo 3 shows some detail of the outer surface - the Atom2 surely does make excellent quality prints. Photo 4 is the light with the LED set to white, and the other photos are with the LED set for different colors.

I used Craftware to slice the part. There were a few very thin strings on the inside of the part. For this print I reduced Prime/Retract from 6 mm to 5 mm, but kept Retract Speed = 150 mm/sec. I also used the LCD panel to change Acceleration from 9000 to 3200. This change did not have a noticeable effect. I'll probably go back to Prime/Retract = 6 mm and just get used to a few thin strings on parts like this.

I'll post the STL file later today; I'm going to try to find a way to get better photos with the LED showing different colors.

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I need some help again OR maybe its helping you? Who knows :) I added a Buy and Sell Classifieds area on https://3dprinterchat.com/adverts/ Now i need to fill it...
Of course like usual everything is free on the site no hidden fees for posting.
I would love to see you guys post all your old leftover filament rolls printers accessories etc..etc.. Dont forget to sign up on the page to we will add the real upload download section on monday!! :) So click on https://3dprinterchat.com/adverts/ and help me get it started! <3

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ATOM SPAIN. Successful project with ATOM 2.0: Music and 3D Printing. Tuba mouthpiece. Link to the video

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在 CES 上 3D 列印技術的服裝、珠寶、飾品⋯⋯

Oh my!

I was cleaning off the hot end prior to starting a new print when I noticed some melted plastic around the hot end. Upon closer inspection I saw that a big wad of plastic was stuck to the hot end above the lower heat shield. So I took off one of the screws holding the shield and saw what is in pic #1.

Somehow a bunch of plastic had gotten stuck above the lower heat shield and completely filled in the space above it. What a surprise! So I simply did a Preheat to 200 and pulled it off. I used an alcohol wipe to clean of the small amount of plastic left and reassembled the heat shield. Pic #2 shows what came off the hot end.

The entire cleaning/fixing process took about 15 minutes. I found it handy to disconnect all the magnetic rods except the front 2. This holds the printhead at a convenient height and also allows you to move it around for easy access.

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How I solved a bad printer problem

While my Atom2 was finishing a large print last night the print head suddenly went crazy and 3 of the magnetic rods became disconnected. The printer also made a really loud noise and vibrated a lot. So I immediately switched it off.

After some investigating (love that M119 command) I found out that the Y limit switch was always in the triggered state. So I knew there was a short or broken wire somewhere. After more investigation I saw, using a magnifying glass, that the wires leading from the Y limit switch were a bit longer than ideal and were in fact rubbing on the Y axis pulley. The insulation on one of the wires had been worn away and there was bare wire touching the rim of the pulley.

It took me about a half out to remove the limit switch, un-solder its wire leads, strip back some of the shrink wrap on the wires going to the motherboard, re-solder them to the switch, and then reattach the switch. During this process I used the M119 command a lot to make sure everything worked the way it should.

Apparently I had left some extra wire at the top of the Y column when I first assembled my Atom2. So it is probably worth checking your X, Y, and Z limit switch wires just to be sure they aren't rubbing the drive belt pulleys.

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Engraved and cut pictures made with 2W and 2.1W L-Cheapo diode laser competition!

Endurance is happy to invite everybody interested to participate in a laser engraved and cut images made with 2W and 2.1W L-Cheapo competition.

You are welcome to submit your laser engraved or cut images (pictures and videos) made with 2W and 2.1W L-Cheapo starting from November, 20, 2015. The competition will last till Dec.20, 2016 when a ) when the jury of 5 people (will be announced later) will view your pictures and videos to select the winners.

The winners’ selection criteria are as follows:
1) general idea of the image;
2) esthetical qualities;
3) originality.

We’ll also place the submitted pictures on our web site for general public to select those they like best.
The results will be announced on December, 24, 2015 on the Endurance web site. http://endurancerobots.com

The winner will get a brand new Endurance L-Cheapo Mark 3 diode laser (3.5W).
The second prize is 150 USD and 75% off for purchasing an Endurance L-Cheapo Mark 3 laser.
The third prize is 50 USD and 50% off for purchasing an Endurance L-Cheapo Mark 3 laser.
The public selection prize is 25 USD and 25% off for purchasing an Endurance L-Cheapo Mark 3 laser.
Send your pictures, videos and stories to: gf@endurancerobots.com

Title: Endurance L-Cheapo competition.
Share your pictures and video footages in the FB group: https://www.facebook.com/Endurance-1399951053640252/

and Instagram with the tag: # endurancelcheapo

Send us: 2-3 best pictures of engraving samples that you made with an L-Cheapo 2W or 2.1W diode laser.
Videos (or pictures) are obligatory to prove the submitted images were made with an Endurance L Cheapo.
In your short story please tell about your experience of using L-Cheapo lasers and when you bought an L-Cheapo.

Link on your youtube video of engraving or laser cut process.

Our contacts:
gf@endurancerobots.com
or viber, whatsapp (+7 916 225 4302)
or via skype: George.fomitchev
http://EnduranceRobots.com

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Table lamp

This is my first practical design for a printable desk lamp. The lamp has 2 separate parts: the base and the shade. The base holds the light source which is a standard 68mm/2.75" diameter LED "puck" light that is powered by 3 AAA batteries. I bought 3 of these lights at Lowes for $9.98 batteries included. The photos show the lamp base with the puck, the lamp lit in a totally dark room sitting on a grey bedspread, and the lamp on my desk both lit and unlit.

Here is a link to the puck light:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_406110-43768-NS511-R6-306_1z0y4gqZ1…

I originally designed the base to hold some sort of wall-powered light (I found a very cool color-changing LED lamp that has a nifty remote comtrol), so it allowed for a space through which the power cord could pass. But I was unable to find a socket that fit the base, so I substituted the LED puck light instead. With this design you actually don't need the base at all - the shade can sit right on a table top with the light inside it if you prefer. I do plan on redesigning the base by giving it a more organic shape that better suits the overall shade design.

The base for this design prints in about 3 hours, and the shade requires about 7 hours. I used a 0.200 mm layer height for both parts. Note that the shade presents only a small surface area in contact with the print bed, so it is necessary to use a brim when printing. For my print I used a brim of 6 loops, with each loop = 0.400 mm.

My next design will feature this same shade but with twisted ribs on the outside.

The STL files are available here

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1144380

or here

https://pinshape.com/items/14526-3d-printed-lamp1

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Hello atomist,
I started having issues with the last parts I have printed. There are ondulations on the perimeters, and in other pieces the perimeters are not completely closed. What would the problem be?

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First test with ZebraPlate

Excellent results!

Pic#1& 2 show my installation of the 260mm dia. ZebraPlate. It fits quite well by itself between the 4 standard bed clips of the Atom2, but I added to large paper clips just for good measure.

I printed my standard test part right on the plate with nothing else - no glue or tape. It printed A-OK. When it finished I simply picked it up off the plate - it came right off with no need to use the knife. Pic#3 shows the final part.

Pic#4 is not very interesting - it's the area of the plate where the part came from. The 2 brim pieces came off easily too; I know the Zebra guys say brims & skirts are not needed, but I used my standard Craftware parameters just to keep things simple. The plate had nothing left on it - a totally celan removal with essentially no effort at all.

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