ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » LCD

熱敏看起來接觸不良 有壓緊不？

這樣的，不知道有甚麼問題 ?

看起來好像是不是有東西被膠帶跟著黏起來了？

SMT熱敏電阻，升天了⋯⋯

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更正一下，電腦螢幕夠大，我現在才看清楚SMT元件並未脫落、跟著貼布一起帶上來。

要更換？

Jacky Lee 可以修理。

Hawke ChienSheng Liu 要怎樣修理 ?

Jacky Lee 寄回原廠

Jacky Lee 如果chip 沒裂掉就焊回去就好了

兩部新2.5 ex都有相同情況 ?

Jacky Lee 如果自己沒彎到或碰撞到...兩台都是一樣chip 脫落狀態,那已經判定這批貨製程是整批NG了..跟廠商反映一下,最少把庫存熱床全部sorting 一下

電腦螢幕畫面才夠大，現在我才確定SMT元件並沒有被膠帶給黏起來，可以先排除零件問題。
兩部 2.5ex 都有相同情況的話，持續交叉驗證就可以找到真因，對症下藥。

Hawke ChienSheng Liu 好的，我要研究一下。看似熱床無問題，可能是主控底板出問題

97不能再多……
你怎可以不用換料柱

gcode沒問題的話就是韌體改壞了XDDD

maybe shorten the name will be sooner lol

Yes but no ;o)..... That's too easy ...

Try this first.
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/#head5

Ah yes, I completely forgot about the PID settings. I have done that before and I know it takes a while.

Unfortunately neither Pronterface nor Simplify3D want to connect to the printer - the connection sends back garbage characters and I get messages like "could be invalid baud rate" and "connection failed". So I'l have to fgure otu what's going on with that first.

I just delete m109 in my g-code and start printing.
And newest firmware is 2.5.

2.5? Where does that come from? I got 2.0.7 from the Atom website. Is there a better place to find it?

And if you delete M109 how does the printer know to not print with a cold hotend?

http://www.atom3dp.com/....../2017/11/ATOM-2.5B-170116.zip

You can use this on 2.0

You just reach temperature and start printing

Thanks for your suggestions; I have some interesting results:
1. Firmware 2.5 did not work for me. I installed it OK and took out the M109 command. When I started the print the printhead started printing about 2 inches above the print bed and the hote nd was not at the proper temperature. No filament was extruded from the hotend.
2. I added an M104 to set the temperature to 215 and then tried to run an AutoLevel (which I had run OK before with 2.0.7), but the printer made a loud buzzing sound and didn't do anything. I took this as my clue to revert to 2.0.7.
3. I reinstalled 2.0.7, performed an AutoLevel , removed the M109, and verified there was an M104 S0215. When the printer started printing no filament came out. The LCD said the temp was something like 67. I took this to mean the hotend had not yet got up to the 215 temp.
4. I restarted the printer and did a warmup to 200. When I started the print this time it did in fact start printing - which it is doing now. I'm printing a string test part and using the same slicer settings I've used in the past the print is showing much more stringing. But it is printing the layers at 185.
5. I don't understand why Arduino can talk to the printer OK, but not Pronterface or Simplify3D.
6. I thought I could use the printer LCD to set PID values by hand, but I looked in the Configuration.h file and there are no defaults there for Atom2. I didn't think it wold be wise to use values from a different printer.

I resolved the serial port connection problem by setting S3D & Pronterface to use a baud rate of 250,000 and the Serial Port driver to a baud rate of 460,000. I have no idea why this solved the connection problem, but it did.

I ran the PID test and go t numbers KP: 17.63, Ki: 1.27, Kd: 61.25. The first 2 were fairly close to what the printer's LCD screen showed, but the last one was far different. At any rate, I stored the updates and did a preheat 200.

I was disappointed to see that the printer could not get the hotend to a temp higher than about 190. But I ran my string test print again, removing the M109 line since I knew the printer could never get to 215.

The print failed shortly after it started with what appears to be a jammed nozzle. I'm thinking the problem may be that the hotend I'm using has a heatsink just above the nozzle (it's like the original Atom 2,0 hotend assembly) and this may be preventing the heater disk from getting the hotend up to desired temperature. So I may go back to using my "newer" hotend which is similar to the current 2.5EX one.

Edit: Yup - if I stop the heatsink fan from running the hotend gets up to 200 quite quickly. Letting the fan go results in the temp goes back down to around 190. Looks like I really will go back to my previous hotend configuration.

Hi! I have had the same issues as you with the 2.0.7 firmware. The temperature fluctuated all time, so I went back to the 2.0.6 firmware

I am going back to 2.06 also because 2.07 does not allow negative Z-Offset values.

2.06 working fine - no need to redo PID values.

i also have problem on heating today, i found out my heater's wire snap.

稍微用力一擠

要叼一下就行

塞進去了！謝謝兩位前輩的協助

G 單元 - LCD 螢幕 與 控制板 組裝

請參考： …… 查看更多

記得 撕掉 蜂嗚器 上面的 貼紙！不然 聲音 會出不來！

控制風扇的MOS應該被打壞了..

很恐怖，如果LCD不外接USB，一開機，加熱器會直接通電加熱！這樣會火災。只能把L1短路。

這是不是後面有個調亮度的旋鈕，調暗一點試看看

這是哪台的螢幕阿？ 1.0的機器？

線先全部拔掉阿～ 在一個一個插回去 看看是哪個東西插回去 才叫...
記得斷電...

如果是雙疊版,你是連底下那片mpu也換嗎?如果有換要灌Firmware 進去才行

抱歉前輩我試了好幾天
但是即使灌了FTDI driver
我的電腦仍然讀不到板子

我下載的是這個
並直接執行
不知道是否有誤呢

你是用meag 2560+ramps 1.4 ˇ的雙疊版嗎？mega2560 有的usb 是用ch341 驅動。

已造了出來嗎?

??? https://www.facebook.com/GeniusClub.KeliNetwork/videos/1347460028706937/

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排1

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感謝各位，目前1, 4, 5 已售出

2也售出了，只剩下3

上班要專心