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原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-07-21 20:34:11
LCD behaving badly (or strangely)
After printing for slightly less than 17 hours my LCD looks like photo 1. But if you look at it at an angle it looks like photo 2.
I have not seen anything like this before, and I have done some prints before that were just as long. My guess is this particular print will run for another 6 hours or so. So I wonder what the LCD will look like after that.
Clarence Lee 2015-07-21 20:43:39
strange, but try to tuning the VR resistors on the back of the LCD board
Rickey Yang 2015-07-21 20:51:46
The blue color variable resistor
Birk Binnard 2015-07-21 21:31:09
Well that's an interesting idea - thanks. I have never seen a component like that. Do I just put a screwdriver in it and twist it? Can I do this with power on? Actually I am hoping the LCD returns to normal once I am able to turn the printer off and on again. It will be a few hours until I can do that.
Clarence Lee 2015-07-21 21:39:06
Need to turning it when power on
Birk Binnard 2015-07-21 22:10:14
Excellent - thanks Clarence. I'll post results here later today.
蕭雲開 2015-07-21 22:40:57
Well I had the same screen since day one, and I thought it was normal. :p Looking forward to see your solution.
Birk Binnard 2015-07-22 04:04:33
After 23 hours and 56 minutes - my part finished printing. I'll post some pics after lunch. But my hopes were dashed - turning power off did not fix the display problem. Neither did plugging in the printer's USB cable with power off - the LCD lit up the same way as shown above. Clearly something has happened or changed. But what it is I don't know. I'll have to take the LCD panel apart to get at that variable resistor. I'll probably wait to do that until tomorrow.
Birk Binnard 2015-07-23 06:02:38
Success!! Turning that variable resistor (or whatever it is) fixed the problem. I will make a new posting with pics.
原文網址 Sam Li 2015-07-07 09:53:47
想請問一下，我的ATOM 2.0 的 LCD 面板的旋鈕只對按下有反應，可是在選單的地方無論怎麼轉都沒有動靜，所以就無法滑到下方的選項，像是 prepare, card, etc..請問這有方法可以測試到底哪裡出錯嗎? 目前其他的開機測試像是calibration, heating test, 都ok, 就在要試進料的時候發現了這問題?可能是 旋鈕壞掉了嗎?
Odinson Thor 2015-07-07 09:56:58
我是會亂跳，不然就是檔名不見變成一個斜線，要轉很多次才能把游標移到正確的檔案或資料夾上面
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 11:12:10
lcd排線有問題...尋求原廠更換...
李穆 2015-07-07 11:23:50
我在列印中有時會遇到這問題，是Lag嗎？
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 11:25:54
列印中LCD反應會比較慢回應算是正常的,因為這時候運算量比較重...
Sam Li 2015-07-07 13:33:46
謝謝, 剛去買了線材自己做了兩條新線，現在旋鈕的問題ok了。 另外有個問題是，我插了ＳＤcard, 主畫面有顯示 ＂Card Inserted", 可是剛我按到下一個指令的畫面時，確是顯示" NO CARD", 按進去後資料夾是空的，可是ＳＤCard 裡面的確存有測試列印的檔案。請問這還是排線的問題嗎? 我已換了EXP1 和 EXP2 的線了。
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 13:46:36
理論上是相關的..不過排線都換了...線交換看看? 不然就換別張卡看看?
Sam Li 2015-07-07 14:24:06
目前換了三張SD Card, 四條新的排線....都讀不到任何東西。請問 ATOM 只能從SD Card 裡讀取列印嗎? 有趣的是.... 四條新線得不同組合裡，只有ㄧ組比較正常，只是SDcard 讀不到，另外三各組合，兩個是旋鈕可以按到下一個介面，可是旋鈕沒有用，（回到一開始的問題）。一個是連按鈕都沒有......@_@.....沒想到做新線也像在買樂透....
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 14:28:55
苦...這年頭線材品質不良真多?! 線材找蕊數比較足的.. 不過也不排除LCD模組或是主控版那端有問題的可能性... 列印你可以用usb透過pronterface或是repetierhost等軟體直接列印
原文網址 車振華 2015-07-07 09:24:57
依據韌體更新說明"在上傳完韌體後，請記得到LCD螢幕點選control-> restore failsafe -> store memory ..."，但我的LCD螢幕只能進入功能主選單，旋轉旋鈕皆無動作，然後會回到狀態顯示，還有有時LCD螢幕會閃滅一下。我試著調換排線，調換後LCD螢幕會全部看不到字，所以又換回來，韌體也再重新更新，還是無法解決。不知大家是否有好的方法可試？感恩！
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 10:06:09
找原廠洽詢更換排線... 有訊號沒通..
車振華 2015-07-07 12:26:39
Clarence Lee 還要自己找原廠啊,ALT design co. 不能處理嗎?
Estima Lin 2015-07-07 12:39:27
說到這個排線品質真差！ 已經不少人反應了～ 就是排線接觸不良， 上星期一反應到現在排線還沒有收到！
車振華 2015-07-07 12:42:29
上星期一到現在,那我現在聯絡不就要到下星期三都還沒結果,如果是這樣,實在難以令人接受.../ \
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 12:50:38
車振華 就是說找Alt design的意思... 電話, email連繫不到? 急著用其實去電子材料行做兩條回來換最快
車振華 2015-07-07 12:55:09
Clarence Lee ,您會錯意了,"上星期一到現在"是重複 Estima Lin 的狀態陳述,再按其狀況推估我可能會面臨的情形,我還沒跟Alt design直接連繫,等等連繫看看嘍!
車振華 2015-07-07 14:06:43
Clarence Lee ,電子材料行做兩條,...嗯,這個對我有點難,我沒有這方面的知識.../ \
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 14:22:12
其實帶著那兩條走去電子材料行問有沒有同規格,或是能不能現做兩條這樣.以前一些電子材料行都有壓排線的服務
車振華 2015-07-07 14:31:04
瞭解,已發E-MAIL至ATOM 3D列印論壇下方"聯繫我們"的電子郵件,等待Alt的回覆,再看看如何處理嘍!
車振華 2015-07-07 14:36:35
Sam 兄碰到的問題 "...LCD 面板的旋鈕只對按下有反應，可是在選單的地方無論怎麼轉都沒有動靜，..."應該跟我的一樣..../ \
Peter Wu 2015-07-07 17:42:58
HIHI 可以再傳封EMAIL到support@atom3dp.com 嗎? 我們會盡快幫您處理!
車振華 2015-07-08 10:30:48
Po-Hsun Peter Wu ,已發E-MAIL,等待嘍!
Peter Wu 2015-07-08 12:02:11
收到!請車先生收一下回覆
車振華 2015-07-13 10:21:39
繼續等待中....!!!
車振華 2015-07-13 16:50:16
看樣子今天又沒進展了 / \. Po-Hsun Peter Wu 可以給個大致處理的時間嗎? 謝謝!
Charlie Ting 2015-07-13 16:57:17
打電話給 ALT Design 最快；如果很急，就自己拿著線材去光華商場（或其他縣市的電子材料行），請他們按照排線規格壓兩條，這東西不貴，就看怎麼處理對自己最方便。
Peter Wu 2015-07-13 20:24:35
不好意思 我們明天就會寄到！
車振華 2015-07-14 16:39:29
Po-Hsun Peter Wu ,排線已收到,明天組裝再試試,謝謝!
車振華 2015-07-16 08:28:54
LCD終於可以操控了..^^
原文網址 シ熙 王 2015-07-05 15:27:46
請問一下 我的LCD面板要斜看才看得清楚(字的地方是全白的) 是我線沒接好還是LCD面板壞了 但關掉時接電腦時LCD卻顯示正常
還有送料時 噴頭會流出一段(大概10幾公分) 這算正常嗎 謝謝
張不凡 2015-07-05 15:35:40
液晶板後面有旋鈕可以調整畫面對比，調至適當可見就好，沒壞的... 進料會出來一段是正常的喔！別緊張。
林英志 2015-07-06 07:27:26
1.調整對比度+1(盡量在不過電的時候調整，不然就是使用陶瓷起子) 2.那是溫度導致料自己融出，列印時可以加入預擠的功能，避免工件第一層不漂亮。
原文網址 Odinson Thor 2015-07-04 19:53:30
今天下午組好ATOM 2.0，照說明書去下載最新韌體後，USB沒拔就這樣接在電腦上，然後就用記憶卡開始印 300height.gcode
印沒多久想說拍張第一次列印的照片，然後把 iPhone接到另一條USB上準備把照片傳到電腦，就在這時印表機突然停止列印。
一開始還不知道發生什麼事，想了很久還是想不出原因，直到重新開始列印時，剛好又要把iPhone拔掉，結果又停止列印了!(此時注意到LCD閃了一下)
這時我才意識到USB是問題的所在，所以現在正在印第三次300height.gcode
有人知道為什麼USB會影響列印嗎?
大家都是用記憶卡在印嗎?
林文和 2015-07-04 20:36:27
需要更新喔~我以為直接列印就好~
Odinson Thor 2015-07-04 20:38:40
因為說明書有寫韌體會不定期更新，所以還是上官網更新一下
廖新弘 2015-07-04 21:29:50
因為USB有供5V電源，所以沒事不要亂插拔USB，建議還是離線列印比較好，萬一電腦休眠，有可能又影響列印
Danny Kuo 2015-07-04 21:33:25
離線列印 比較不會有斷線問題！！
Pihiko Lin 2015-07-04 23:02:39
我有試過...沒開電源插上USB和電腦LCD就亮了XD...可是根本電源沒開...這時後開列印就很恐怖XD
陳明谷 2015-07-05 00:53:36
多恐怖
原文網址 紀慶和 2015-07-02 09:33:06
我昨天剛拿到機器 馬上就組起來玩了XD
然後有遇到兩個比較大的問題
第一個是LCD的問題 用電源供電會無法出現螢幕 單獨接上USB又會出現 然後USB跟電源一起開會過亮(但還是有選單)
這樣要怎麼解決阿? 我LCD的排線重插了很多次都無法解決該問題
第二個是如影片所示
執行 Auto Home會出現問題 https://youtu.be/ykzyNQlhLnI
但如果將三軸推到最高點後執行Auto Level 又可以正常執行完畢 https://youtu.be/WeM8cW5p2jY
所以可能是Y軸微動出問題了嗎? 我排線重插了也是無法解決
各位前輩有遇過一樣的問題嗎?
Kyle Tseng 2015-07-02 09:37:14
我也正想問螢幕過亮的問題，亮到我都必須歪著頭看選單
Clarence Lee 2015-07-02 09:55:32
Kyle Tseng 太亮從lcd後面有個旋鈕(可變電阻可調整) 紀慶和 影片1 先檢查微動開關看看有沒有問題... 寶典翻一下應該有關於怎麼檢測...
廖新弘 2015-07-02 10:01:25
你的三軸上微動開關的缐有問題，有用M119檢查過嗎？之前有很多文章有提到如何檢測，爬一下文吧
紀慶和 2015-07-02 11:06:07
好歐 感謝大家 我回家在測試一下 昨天晚上1點組完就去休息了 早上還要出門
張不凡 2015-07-02 12:29:38
Lcd的問題在後面有個旋鈕調整，十字的，轉到適合的顯示就停就搞定了
翁士捷 2015-07-02 14:53:01
後面10k可變電阻可調整背光
紀慶和 2015-07-02 21:01:22
感謝各位前輩 問題一: 亮度可以調了 但USB要外接電源才能顯示選單 這個正常嗎? 問題二: 剛剛用M119測過了 Y軸一直處為觸發的狀態 檢查過機器了 外觀 腳位 都沒有問題 所以可能是開關有問題了?
Kyle Tseng 2015-07-02 22:34:56
我的螢幕也調整好了~感謝大家!!
Clarence Lee 2015-07-03 10:11:55
紀慶和 問題一請洽ALT design 問題二,把Y的接到X or Z看看...
廖新弘 2015-07-03 10:28:37
檢查電源電缐是否有接好
紀慶和 2015-07-03 10:51:34
Clarence Lee 我有拿其他的微動開關測過 板子沒有問題 因該真的是那個開關的問題了
紀慶和 2015-07-03 10:52:30
廖新弘 有接好 因為只有一開始開機要用usb 之後操作就可吧usb拔掉
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 21:19:20
Good news and Bad news: the good news is I was able to print (almost) the ribbed vase I was having trouble slicing. To get it to slice I doubled the bottom's thickness from 3.1 mm to 6.2 mm. And when I printed the part I scaled it up from 110 mm high to 120 mm high.
With these changes Kisslicer seemed to slice it OK. However, Craftware still would not slice it properly. So I used Kisslicer's GCode to start printing. The estimated total print time was a little under 14 hours.
The print looked absolutely superb up to the time I went to sleep for the night. You can see how smooth the inside and outside surfaces are in the first image below. Without a doubt this is the highest quality I have printed so far. Setting Layer Height = 0.2 mm might be the key to that. I was hoping for a really great finished part when I got up the nest morning.
Unfortunately this was not the case. When I got up and turned on the light (it was just before 5AM) the printer was at about the 90% mark and doing just fine. I turned on my PC to get ready to post this message, and very shortly after that the printer stopped printing. I looked at the LCD and it had gone back to the main Info screen where it showed 0 for the heated temperature and the actual temperature dropping fast. So I had no choice but to stop the print and do an Auto-Home.
The printer is powered from the same power control center as my PC. This unit has 4 independently switchable power outlets and is itself connected to a UPS box. My guess is that there was a slight voltage drop caused by turning on my PC, and this somehow affected the Atom2's circuits.
After I did Auto-Home I checked the motherboard connection of the 2 yellow thermistor wires and that was fine. Then I tried Preheat to 200 and that worked OK. So I do think the printer is physically OK.
The second photo below shows the other problem I had: The bottom came off the part when I tried removing it from the print bed. In fact, the bottom did not print as designed - most likely as a result of what Andrew Lee discovered when he looked at the part's STL file. The bottom was supposed to be 6.2 mm thick, but in fact it printed a bottom only 0.6 mm thick (0.6 mm = 3 times 0.2mm layer thickness).
Even though this print failed I am very pleasantly surprised at the quality the Atom2 is capable of printing. I am going to change the way the bottom surfaces are created and try this print again - probably in a smaller version first. Hopefully that will yield an even more impressive result.
André Medborg 2015-05-27 21:41:44
Birk Binnard this makes me curious. Try send me the file. I would love to look at in my 3d setup. I think you have more than one surface in the buttom.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-27 21:45:20
Maybe find out the best temperature for this filament could help the problem. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282520/#instructions BTW, layer 0.15, 0.1 event 0.05mm worth a try for the beautiful detail. ;p
Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 21:56:04
Andre - I'm sorry but I have deleted the STL file and have only the GCode left - so we will never know what actually happened. However, I have just finished re-defining how the part is made and I now have the inside surface joined with only the insid …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 23:22:42
Andre - I forgot that I had saved the STL file from the part you looked at on a cloud drive. I also put up there my "fixed" version of the part Here is the URL for both. The fixed one is called thermos.stl: http://1drv.ms/1GDCLSZ …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 01:20:52
Finished slice this thermos.stl on Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.2 Peak memory usage is about 3.5GB bottom is about 6.2mm …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 01:44:48
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:851525 remixed 245~190 version
Birk Binnard 2015-05-28 02:59:27
Hi Clarence. I have the same version of Kisslicer as you do, and when I sliced thermos.stl I get strange results. My key parameters are 0.2mm layer thickness, Num loops = 3, Extrusion width = 0.38, Skin Thickness = 2 mm, and Infill = Vase. Here are th …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 08:34:30
Why infill vase or hollow? I think slicer did them right. But for this stl, it should be infill at least 10? Check the start of my gcode, you can found the slicer setting there for reference.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 08:37:32
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672 Check this stl, I think this kind of the model design would need to use infill=vase . Suggest to design like that, a solid cylinder. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-28 12:15:02
Clarence = thanks for your comments. Because I started designing models before I ever got a printer I had to guess how to do it. At the time it seemed to me that a vase or bowl type part should have an inside and an outside so it would have sufficient …… 查看更多
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-05-21 22:40:12
What does ERR: TEMP mean?
I started printing a part and this message appeared at the bottom of the LCD. I made it go away by reloading firmware (Restore Failsafe/Store Memory); after that everything was OK.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-21 22:47:35
it means it can't read the temperature from thermistor. I am wondering if your controller board might got some issue or short somewhere. It's happened too frequently. Suggest to check if anything is abnormal short. Check the heater, thermistor.
Birk Binnard 2015-05-21 23:05:59
Thanks Clarence, I thought it might be something like that. I think the best I can do is make sure the connection to the thermistor plug on the motherboard is solid. Assuming it is I reckon I'll just have to wait and see how it goes. I replaced the motherboard once so if necessary I can do that again.
原文網址 Bruce Wu 2015-05-21 21:55:26
想請問各位，我昨天剛組好ATOM 1.0，Firmware是出廠SD卡裡的那版，開機看起來一切正常。進行初次列印後我看校正完有出料就放心去睡了。結果起床看到一堆米粉... 然後LCD螢幕就變這樣一片空白，不管是重新插電、只插USB到電腦、或是兩個一起插都無法恢復原狀。爬了文好像沒看到類似的情形，請問我該怎麼復原它？感謝各位。附上LCD與電路板現在的照片
廖新弘 2015-05-21 22:29:52
韌體重燒一次看看
Clarence Lee 2015-05-21 22:38:26
哇..這1.0放的還真久;p
Bruce Wu 2015-05-21 22:53:04
我重新Uplaod了兩次Firmware，LCD還是這個畫面
Clarence Lee 2015-05-21 22:59:31
那usb 接pronterface能直接控制嗎?..可以的話檢查LCD的排線..應該只是單純LCD這段訊號傳輸的問題
Bruce Wu 2015-05-21 23:36:59
不好意思第一次用Pronterface，左方的按鈕都沒反應，不過右方的command line似乎可以用，send m119有回應；LCD排線有重插試過了
Clarence Lee 2015-05-21 23:45:43
左方沒反應檢查12V電源有沒有近來
Bruce Wu 2015-05-22 00:01:04
Clarence Lee 謝謝！的確是LCD訊號傳輸的問題，反覆多重插幾次顯示的字終於正常了 :)
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-05-11 07:12:23
Suggesstion for Atom2 firmware change:
If a print job is stopped or paused by an LCD command, the printer leaves a blob of melted filament at the point where the extruder stopped. It would be nice if this did not happen.
Could this be stopped by having the firmware insert a Retract function immediately after a Stop or Pause command?
If Yes is the answer, then the Resume command would need a corresponding Feed (or whatever it is) command added so the filament could begin being extruded when the printer restarts.
André Medborg 2015-05-11 16:34:54
Good point, this feature would be nice to have.
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