ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » g code

原文網址 Charlie Ting
2016-03-06 03:50:13

[雷雕]

好久沒玩雷雕了，昨天想說要雕個名牌放車上，結果還發現忘了以前改寫程式改到那一代了，竟然無法產生。

今天花了點時間再爬一下 python, 還好還是有修回來。

不過我真的覺得對我而言，用 python 寫的難度真的太高。

等手邊的主機架好，就要來試新的 php 程式架構，看能不能用 client / server 的概念來寫了。

不過雖然說是改用 php 寫，但是感覺起來似乎未來理想的模式還是有個 PI 的控制板用來控制印表機，而處理雷射檔案和 GCODE 的部份則由主機上處理，完成後再丟給 PI 去傳檔列印。

對使用者來說，只要有瀏覽器和有登錄的雷雕機器，就可以隨時隨地使用，不用去管那麼多系統和技術上的問題。

不過，要有空～～～XDDD

張張家祝
2016-03-06 08:23:55

這完全是符合互聯網的概念嘛，C大厲害

Charlie Ting
2016-03-06 12:06:29

完成版

MoMo Yang
2016-03-06 15:22:20

昨天有看到有人用雷射製作電路板, 我也打算來玩一下雷射了

黃俊傑
2016-03-07 12:04:41

最近pi3出了阿！ CP值超高！！！可以出手阿...

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2016-03-04 07:49:57

Strange printer behavior - what to do?

After performing an Auto-Home function, when I begin a print the printer makes a "jump" before it moves the printhead down to the printbed. The jump is really more of a jerk type movement that it never did before. The net result is the printhead ends up in the wrong place (too close to the printbed) to extrude properly.

It seems that the jump motion causes the printer to lose track of its vertical position, but I can't figure out why it has started doing this for no apparent reason.

To deal with this I have reloaded the printer firmware (twice), spent a lot of time with Z-offset, verified all the mechanical parts of the printer are ok, etc. The problem happens with both Craftware and Simplify3D, so I don't think it is a GCode problem.

This is the beginning of the S3D GCode:
G90
M82
M106 S0
M104 S190 T0
M109 S190 T0
G28 ; home all axes
;G29 Z+0.6 ; AutoCalibration
G1 F5000 Z50 ; lift nozzle
G0 X0 Y0 Z50 ; parking
G92 E0
G1 E-3.0000 F9000

and this is the CW:
G28 ;Home
M109 S200 ;set and wait head temperature
; ------------------------------------
; Layer #0
; ------------------------------------
G21 ; mm
G90 ; abs
G92 E0 ; reset extr
M106 S0
G0 F9000 E-3.0000

I guess there is some truth to the saying "It's always something."

翻譯年糕

Charlie Ting
2016-03-04 08:13:59

You may try to set Accel to 500 in ATOM panel, and set XY Travel speed to less 250. (200 is better).

That's so-called momentum problem, not a big deal.

原文網址 Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-03-02 17:06:54

Same GCODE, same PLA, different ATOM machine. Any idea?

翻譯年糕

Marco Lai
2016-03-02 17:17:33

Different ATOM machines may have different offset level. It will give you different layer and surface.

Charlie Ting
2016-03-02 21:05:30

Clean the nozzle and PTFE tube.

Hawke ChienSheng Liu
2016-03-02 23:02:33

Check stability of temperature.

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-03-02 23:13:52

Thanks all,

1) Its not a problem of the offset as we use the latest firmware and the offset is set in the machine not in the GCode.

3) I will check the temperature stability

2) If 3) doesn't work I will clean it.

Thanks ;)

江榮泰
2016-03-03 00:20:11

Belt tension or motor issue?

Birk Binnard
2016-03-03 01:14:09

Possible nozzle clogging?

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-03-03 01:17:20

the nozzle looks fine as most part of the build its flawless

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-03-03 01:17:37

Belt tension is correct

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-03-03 01:18:30

I will check the pololus tension

Stanley Chen
2016-03-03 01:55:56

Did the fans work?

Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero
2016-03-09 03:02:38

good point, ill check the layer fans...

原文網址 戴光宏
2016-03-01 02:40:56

請問有辦法透過修改Gcode設定列印到一個高度後讓噴頭回home降溫休息等待一段時間再繼續加溫回來印嗎?

Charlie Ting
2016-03-01 03:10:24

聽起來可以，但不建議回到 home，只要上到一定高度就好。因為回 home 可能會產生一些誤差。

Alison Wu
2016-03-01 08:17:44

請問是怎樣的列印狀況需要用這種方式呢？謝謝

李穆
2016-03-01 08:20:00

會用到的gcode:
G1 M104 G4 M109

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

戴光宏
2016-03-01 18:10:34

如果列印件需要一百多個小時....

Alison Wu
2016-03-01 18:18:57

有道理

Bise Chen
2016-03-01 21:28:11

一百多個小時......＠＠

原文網址 XianLiang Lin
2016-02-23 22:17:37

請問有人目前用 Simplify3D轉出g-code來打印嗎?
因為發現到Simplify3D的ATOM設定值是比較早期的,速度不一樣,再加上沒對應到2.04韌體版本中的z offset的功能

想說透過kiss轉出的gcode中取出設定值來放到 Simplify3D轉出的code修改,發現到 Simplify3D轉出的亂七八糟沒整齊...讓我很囧...想不出怎麼設定...

廖新弘
2016-02-23 22:51:54

先把設定貼出來

XianLiang Lin
2016-02-24 20:59:50

跑出來就會變成這樣

XianLiang Lin
2016-02-24 21:00:59

XianLiang Lin
2016-02-24 21:01:07

XianLiang Lin
2016-02-24 21:02:13

有建議的修改的地方嗎？

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:11:18

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:11:43

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:12:08

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:12:46

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:13:20

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:15:53

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:16:05

XianLiang Lin
2016-02-24 21:18:37

謝謝!! =D

XianLiang Lin
2016-02-24 21:25:33

有好點,不過發現他轉出來就呈現出,角有缺少幾片...是什麼因素？

廖新弘
2016-02-24 21:39:28

你要不要移除後重新設定看看

原文網址 林似諭
2016-02-22 21:24:36

組裝好後，照著調校說明，利用官網的gcode直接列印…我笑了…

Odinson Thor
2016-02-22 21:26:06

太威了

Kuo Hsuan Tseng
2016-02-22 21:30:07

強!! 這萬惡的鐵塔剛組好都印不好

Charlie Ting
2016-02-22 21:30:48

印很得到位啊

鄭詠聰
2016-02-22 21:36:24

白色是口紅膠嗎？

Stanley Chen
2016-02-22 21:48:55

是個江山代有人才出的概念！

石煌旭
2016-02-22 22:51:16

Odinson Thor
2016-02-23 08:51:15

ATOM原廠料嗎

Håkan Fägnell
2016-02-23 16:56:51

Wolfbite?

原文網址 Charlie Ting
2016-02-17 21:37:10

[求助]

昨天花了一點時間玩那個筆筒浮雕文字的檔案，也把字體輸出的參數都調得差不多了～～～（自以為印出來會好看ＸＤ）

但是，因為它每一格文字其實一塊塊的瓷磚，並不是一個整體。

所以切出來的 gcode 可以發現它是獨立列印的，這雖然不是不能印，但缺點不少。

我試著把 STL 丟入 meshmixer 去 make solid，但檔案似乎太大，執行沒多久程式就掛掉。

STL 檔大概１１０ＭＢ。

不知道有沒有人有什麼想法，可以把這些組成一個實體。

ＰＳ：其實我連瓷磚的堆疊都有故意讓它重疊了，但還是一樣的狀況。目前查到的資料，可能 SolidWorks 會是解決方式之一。如果可以，我把 STL 上傳到網路上，然後幫我 solid 之後，另外產生一個 STL 檔。

感謝～～

王智立
2016-02-17 21:38:30

丁大，丟上雲端，把連結給我。我試看看。

Charlie Ting
2016-02-17 21:40:52

http://www.inventor.com.tw/buddha_penbox.stl

這是二進位檔，所以只有２８ＭＢ左右，看能不能吃。謝謝～

王智立
2016-02-17 22:24:09

Charlie Ting 試看看。面太多轉不了 Solid 。我用其他方法修了一下。

https://www.dropbox.com/....../buddha_penbox-modify......

Charlie Ting
2016-02-18 21:44:33

列印中

王智立
2016-02-18 21:51:13

看起來不錯耶

原文網址 陳俊諺
2016-01-13 17:23:24

大家好~
小弟是最近才開始摸3D列印的初新手
有個問題想請教...
一開始嘗試列印的檔案是ATOM給的測試檔
這些印都沒問題
但是將Thingiverse上所想要的stl檔載下來後
利用KISSLicer轉為gcode後
機器沒辦法列印...
請問這個中間哪裡出了問題...?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:24:21

http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/basics-of-kisslicer/

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 18:00:37

訊息太少，無法判定

陳俊諺
2016-01-13 18:14:32

我在研究一下,看能不能解決或是給出更正確的問題 ><

原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 16:43:29

Hey Guys,

I'm still having one problem with my printer and cura...
Had the problem that the printer was scratching my prints hard when he was traveling. The solution for that was to set the acceleration to 500 - he still scratches them, but not as loud as before. You can still see marks on top layers when he starts filling in the middle, finishes it to the right and then travels back to the middle and starts filling to the left.
Problem is: With smaller parts, he still tears them off the printbed when printing them.
I use Cura, which is my favorite printing program so far...
I don't know if this is something in the Gcode or if this depends on Z-Offset, trying to play with Z-Offset gave me no results, only bad first layers.
I'm thankful for every advice :)

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 16:46:45

not z-offset, it's always z-lift from my opinion...
But how cura use z-lift, it's need to dig in gcode …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:00:40

http://www.file-upload.net/....../apple_cable_savers......
Apple Cable Savers from Thingiverse.
On the bigger one, one side started ripping off, still sticking with a little part. and when he starts printing that spring.. Everything is lost :S

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:08:13

From Gcode
It did Z hop 0.1mm
but since layer 481 …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:14:33

What's your cura version?
https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/126

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:17:06

I think it's fixed since Version: 15.04.03
but I don't recommend to use this since 15.04.xx is not stable enough for not ultimaker from my experience.
But maybe I would try the 15.04.4, and see if I can get a stable version for ATOM setting.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:39:21

My Version is 15.04.3
The rip-Off took place on layer ~120. well, more around that one.
I was wondering, should I choose a higher Z-Hop Value?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:41:11

the butg report seens you might need to turn off something about combine?

for the layer 120 rip off, it might not really related to the Z hop? (but still worth to try higher) …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:52:05

well, Fans are working on 100%, printing at 195°. How should I prevent that warping? Printing Brim? Or rather lower temperature?

About that combine thing: In Expert settings, lower right. There are two options, Combine everything (Type A) and (Type B), I got Type A selected.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:57:35

print it slower, maybe 20mm/s max, lower traveling speed to 80 mm/s

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 18:10:09

Lowering travel speed gives much more ooze & Strings at 7mm / 100mm/s
Print Speed is possible :)

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 01:56:45

Okay will update that tomorrow.What about that combine Thing with type A?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 08:12:41

Try to turn it off

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 18:24:12

Hey Clarence,
Turned the Combine thing off with no real result. Adjusted Z-Hop Value to 0.25mm, still got a ripped off part on a figure...
Within the rest of the week I try other slicers, as I know that Kisslicer did no ripping and scratching at all but gave me baaad print results in case of stringing etc. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 19:15:32

hmm from bug tracker it says it's fixed.
anyway, I would try to slice & check gcode anyway.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 19:44:49

Joschka Friedl should be this, try off or No skin

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 19:46:34

Will try that one. Working on craftware now and will test that on cura too

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 20:07:19

Looking good so far.
But I recognized that he does a "blob" sound like filament being too hot on every layer. And it seems like on those places, tiny little holes are created because of that. Lowered temperature down to 180° now. seems like its okay now... :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 18:41:11

Hi Clarence Lee ,
After turning Type A off, Selecting No Skin and adjusting Z-Hop to 2.5mm, he now prints without ripping and muuuuch less scratching. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-15 18:42:20

blobbing sound should be filament quality issue.
Type A might not related to the scratching issue.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 21:35:46

The scratching issue was related to The ripping off issue... That one is clear. Parts with Little bed-connection ripped off even with large brim. The effector ripped it out of The brim.Will tell The seller about that blobbing Problem. Here is a picture. Still a large stringing Problem :D