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比口紅膠好的替代方案。

昨天在家樂福發現了一個東西：3M SCOTCH 可再貼雙面膠片，

雖然不便宜，但可水洗、黏度夠，比口紅膠好用太多，Z軸多上移1mm即可。

唯一的缺點是找不到有在賣大片的，只有2.5cm正方形大小，

印出來底部會有拼在一起的痕跡。

請問類似的東西有沒有人用過? 希望能買到大片的....

另外請問藍色膠帶的原理是什麼，它也是雙面膠嗎?

如果不是的話，它靠什麼將第一層黏住不翹曲?

各位前輩大家好
新手上路請多多指教
先請教一下
皮帶軸承的部分
依照手冊放兩個套筒、墊片、兩個軸承、墊片
會有約1.3mm的間隙 這樣正常嗎？ 感謝

請問各位在打底層時,有用口紅膠效果比用3M 2090藍色紙膠帶還要容易打完整底層的八卦嗎?

最近發現用藍色紙膠帶時,支撐都打得很疏散且列到一半就斷料
但是恢復用口紅膠卻可以列印完成~且恢復原本的解析與完整度?

一整個很詭異的概念

Some lessons learned

Photo #1 is my latest and most complex print so far - PLA, 120 mm high and about 110 mm wide. It printed in a little over 22 hours with no problems.

Photo #2 is a close-up showing more detail. I used the Craftware slicer and it produced no blobs and only a few very fine strings that were easily removed. I used an Extrusion Width = 0.380 mm and a layer height of 0.225 mm.

I use 3M Blue painter's tape to help adhere the part to the bed. I also set Craftware to use Concentric fill for the top & bottom layers, which it did. However, the blue tape holds the part so tightly that I de-laminated the bottom when I took it off the printer - Photo #3 shows the result. And yes, I was very careful taking the part off the printer.

I am going to try to fix this with an iron and some aluminum foil - I will post another pic of the results. I think this problem might not have happened if I had specified Parallel instead of Concentric for the Top & Bottom layer fills. Printing directly on the print bed glass also might have prevented this - I'm thinking the blue tape should only be used for parts with smaller contact areas or that have distinct corners that need to be kept in contact with the print bed.

翻譯年糕

請問各位，我想要一台DLP光固化列印機，XY軸精度達0.03mm，成品可以脫蠟鑄造，希望各位幫忙介紹，謝謝！

Blue Tape Success!

It sure seems like printing on 3M Blue Painter's tape with a thin coating of glue-stick is the way to go. This box took 6 hrs. 43 minutes to print and came out perfectly. It was hard to get the box off the tape after it finished - see how the tap was pulled up and stuck to the box bottom. But there was no warping of any problems with any of the corners.

All of the corners are really sharp and all the sides of the box, both external and internal, are very smooth. There were no strings or missed loops, and no visible seams on any of the box's surfaces. I am very impressed with both the Atom2 and the latest Craftware slicer.

The box top is more complex; I hope it fits properly. It is printing now.

翻譯年糕

First part printed on 3M Blue Painter tape. The tape worked perfectly. I put a small amount of glue-stick on it before printing. The part printed with no problems and I got it off the tape quite easily. The bottom surface of the part has the texture of the tape rather than being smooth like it would have been from printing on glass, but I don't see that as an issue.

翻譯年糕

kisslicer 估算的時間跟物品體積?
我知道kisslicer 的估算時間都多一點，實際做出來不用那麼久，但是也差太多了，這是atom 實際上都跑比較快嗎?下面工件估算22H45m ,我全程只用80%的速度跑，結果只用16H3m`,這樣算起來只用的估算的60%時間徑可以做完。大家覺得是ATOM 實際跑的速度比較快嗎?
重量估算起來應該是偏多，因為PLA密度約1.25 ，如果照估算應該是
187克，我秤起來160克。

請問ATOM 1.99 (2.0) 噴頭的直徑是 0.3mm 還是 0.4mm?

[出料不順、噴頭卡卡問題詢問]
小弟的ATOM 1.99組好之後一直有出料不順的問題。大部分的時候它工作很完美(除了些許string待解)，但有時就會發生出料不順甚至卡料的意外。經過一陣子的調校，包含改用PC power supply、機構檢測、量測確認噴頭溫度、調整列印速度及 陳亮宇 大blog提及的多項調校 等。最後的設定是
- 溫度210度
- Kisslice destring 6-6-7
- 側風在5mm高之後全開
- 列印速度 第一層 8mm/s, 後面每層 2mm/s 往上加，最高速 < 30mm/s
印了幾次，覺得還可以。但昨晚要印一件大物品時，就發生卡料慘劇了。第一次印時，在大概3mm高之後出料就開始不順。現象是馬達擠不動，且會發出達達達的聲音(料擠不進又彈回的聲音)。觀察發現，我印的這個物件destring的動作頻繁，而回抽的動作做多了最後會導致卡料。於是我修改參數:
- 把溫度再往上調到220度. (天啦~ 會不會太高啦?!)
- destring 4-4-7
- 列印速度 第一層 12mm/s, 後面每層 4mm/s 往上加，最高速 < 30mm/s
以上修改，是為了避免回抽太多卡住及加快出料避免太多原地來回。
列印效果似乎有改善，但最後還是fail在90%的地方，問題一樣是出料卡死。
這次料卡死在噴頭，卡得很緊。最後拔出來後，發現卡料卡死的原因，如附圖。圖中料那環突出的位置大概是在噴頭到喉管中間附近，圖照得不清楚，實際上那環還蠻不蠻明顯的。料回抽到了喉管會冷掉變硬是正常的，但形狀是這個樣子就會卡死了。我是新手，看到圖中料的這個樣子會懷疑是噴頭到喉管之間有個gap，且gap太大導致。或者是冷卻/加熱的點是不是有什麼異常? 熔料累積過多? 因為溫度都調到220度了，回抽的設定也和大家的建議值不太一樣。所以總覺得哪裡怪怪的。還請各位達人們comment一下，請問我這現象是3DP偶會遇到的"正常情況"嗎? 噴頭卡料如附圖正常嗎? 還是有什麼問題或是需要調整的?