Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » LASS

Hello group, i have a question, the glass between the lcd and the uv light on my ptinter has cracked, does it has to be a special kind of glass or can i replace it with regular glass? thanks ?

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for you guys whats, the best way to calibrate the bed i already try both methods (paper sheet and Flint Read) and i'm still having better results with the classic paper sheet method whats have been your experience?

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Dear community,
I recently ordered my printer and anycubic resin (orange).
I know that I will need more tools and equipment so I would like to make a shopping list. I did some research and I know that I will need glasses, gloves, isopropanol etc.

Can you show me what you are using and how?
For example, how do you store the isopropanol?
How do you set up the UV light?

Thanks in advance

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Well for some reason the LCD cable delaminated itself from the board. UGH!!

Removed it and cracked the top glass of course.

Replacement options? Amazon? eBay?

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The Anycubic Photon Classic is on sale today. It's the best price I have seen on Amazon so far at $363.80.

Find the deal here:

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Hey guys, looking for some STL inspiration. Looking for impressive prints to show off to people. I've done a few of the classics like Moon City, but I really want to show off the power of this printer to people with some impressive detail prints. What have you guys got that you love showing off to people?

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Here is what I consider the main tips from a newer owner of a Photon but one who has been 3D printing for a few years now.

The FEP is very important in having success with this printer.

Kudos to Anycubic for including 2 EXTRA FEP sheets with each printer. This on top of the one that is installed.

Now, on to some tips.

As a newer user, I didn't really understand all the finer details of the Photon. I jumped in and wanted to print.

Of course things didn't work perfectly and I found myself cleaning the vat more than once. Taking it out only to have a drop of resin hit the LCD screen, cleaning it, then forgetting to clean UNDER the FEP so then bits of resin cure UNDER and on the LCD screen itself.

Once I got all those issues out of the way, I found out that there was a small leak in the FEP, so I was going to have to replace it.

Follow the video from Anycubic. Works perfectly. Remember that there are TWO protective sheets, remove them both and handle the edges as you will be cutting that off. Should be tight like a snare drum. This was a bit tedious but not hard at all. I am glad I did it, fixed up some of my random failed prints.

If you get some resin on the LCD, wipe it off, and if you unfortunately have resin on the screen and it gets cured to it, this worked for me. Use the plastic scraper and you can apply a decent amount of force to scrape it off. Approach it from a different angle if you need to get under it. Mine is perfect after this incident. I now have some optico glasses cleaner packages that I use and throw away to clean it if I need.

Follow the suggested times for resin taken from the spreadsheet that is easily searchable. Adjust if you need, remembering that just like FDM printing, it is all about the first layer.

On that note, a lot of people don't realize that "HOME" is a physically set point. So when you are doing the 0 level make sure to home the print bed first. THEN make your adjustments using a piece of paper. Lock down the grub screw when you have your hand pushing on both sides. I actually pull the paper back enough so that is barely shows the inside top edge of the LCD. I find that help to make sure that the bed is straight as well as you have something to align to. Check after you tighten the screw, then back out and 0 level and say "yes" to save it. Remember that "HOME" doesn't take it to the 0 level you set. I made this mistake and kept thinking it wasn't saving.

Now that I have a bit of time on the printer, I a

m so impressed with the quality for the price.

Look forward to seeing more and learning off this group.

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i post this by request of Vinicius Silva

This is Creality LD-001 resin printer recently we bought for resin testing. it has some great features.

-wifi (you enter ip on your browser and you can upload and start printer through you browser)

-lcd changing is very easy. there is metal frame over lcd with 4 screws and on the left side of the printer there is cover to remove cable. i realy liked it how easy they made changing lcd

-it uses slicer called 3d creator slicer. i didnt use much but it looks terrible.

-after you slice the file when you click print it asks you bottom exposure time and normal exposure time. in some cases this is good

-when you place the vat over the screen it dosent have place to fit so you need to check if it fits good or not. (they need to fix this)

-build plate has mat surface glass. i dont know if its good or not yet. i made only one print and it was very easy to remove comparing to photon. it gives idea that wont hold big prints. i will print something big and see if its good or not

-leveling was easy. no need to adjust any z=0. just home the z axis and tighten for screws

-so far only one print made and result was good.

-3.5 inch screen seems better than photon.

-it uses rasperry pi board

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Hello Makers :)
From "Printed Obsession" Designer on MyMiniFactory... A very impressive one with free models and accessible.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-tifa-lockhart-final-fantasy-7-remake-32cm-model-95774

Anycubic Clear Resin on Photon Classic.
15cm (Max size lol...)
21h to Go
0.025 layer.
Primer Grey Vallejo

Need to improve my supports cleaning and paint soon ;)
Have Fun !
GuiGui. 翻譯年糕

I am looking for my first resin printer. I make molds and I can not keep up with the demand. The post- processing step slows me down A LOT.
All my master models sit on a 3 mm base. I print the mold wall separate.

I made a round resin coaster and a button mold for wax.
Looking at the Anycubic classic....

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