Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » STL

google "do it again"

you can just make a mouse macro

Not really what I was after as I was hoping to just be able set it going on around 100 models and then just leave it, can’t do that with a mouse macro

sure you can

do the support part, save it using a spreadsheet or notepad w/ keyboard commands (click on window border, then arrow key down to select a cell, then copy, paste into save window file name)

click on the window containing the files, click down arrow, drag into chitu, repeat

it will take a few tries to get the script repeating perfectly but its entirely doable, ive done it with thousands of repetitions in CAD programs

Derek Reihe I’ll give it a try but it seems massively more awkward than just a simple cmd line option like the supports and the exporting!

you can try emailing them but I dont think what you are asking for exists

Derek Reihe yeah, it’s what I feared, but that’s for the help!

Following

Did you put your printer in test mode?

I did not put it into any kind of testmode. Have i misread it? I didnt even know there was one on the Photon S

Sascha Berlin okay so the way this file is suppost to work is there is a mode that changes the exposure time for each section of the file in 2 second increments. So section one will have 2 seconds of exposure while section 2 will have 4 and so on. This way you can see which is the best time of exposure

yeah, that was my assumption, but it still looks very off since no area is somewhat decent. I was wondering if i did something horribly wrong when setting it up

Sascha Berlin i got my source files elsewhere so ill test this one for ya really quick and see what i can find out

Sascha Berlin Well, I am unable to print this particular file as I have the OG photon and can't print .pws files, So I will link to the test I used and maybe that might help you out.

https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

If unfamiliar with github, there is a green box that says clone or download in the middle right of the screen.

Dustin Cole i sadly can not use said file for the newer photon, thats why i resorted to this one. I didnt really find much else in the way rerf testing for the photon s. But thanks for trying!

Sascha Berlin does your photon only print using .pws files?

no, but i heard that both photons use incompatible rerf variants

Sascha Berlin I may be wrong but the photon S does have a stronger light so essentially it just prints faster due to being able to cure fully at a lower exposure time. So for my photon it may take 8-10 seconds for the elegoo grey to cure, where your will take 5-6 seconds. The Rerf should still be able to show you where your resin sweet spot is regardless of machine.

Does this test work on the newer Fauxtons? I watched the youtube videos and didn't see the .gcode files on my thumbdrive when I went to check.

Christopher Barton thats at elsat what i hoped. I mean the areas on each test are different in my case, just not stellar quality. Maybe its the resin not being able to at that resolution.

Why would you say you're not getting good results? #3 - #4 on first picture look entirely decent. It's almost hitting the limits of the printer.

Go with 6 seconds

on which one? first, second or third picture?

i compared them to the original file, not knowing what to expect

The right column is all out of 50 micron range that the photon could *theoretically* achieve. Since this is an lcd sla there is always going to be some light scattering so even a 50 micron pixel will cure to more than 50 microns. The resolution you're getting here between #2 - #4 is about 150 microns, which is pretty much perfect for this kind of a printer. If you need better you'd have to look at $3000+ laser slas.

Sascha Berlin The first one. #2 give you best negative (lowered) detail but is lacking a bit of positive (raised) detail. I'd go with #3 (7s) or go a bit more heavy with supports with 6s. I'm assuming the first one is at 50 micron layers? Try to do another test with lower exposure for shallower layers as they need less time to cure.

Mi Ha first one is 50, yeah. I'll just try with that! What would the advantage of going below 50 be then? (looking at your other comment as well) I have been printing at 40 most of the time but some detail looked a bit off (overexposure i guess, printed at 9/10 secs)

i would print with those settings now using x4 AA, does that make sense?

Sascha Berlin You can linearly extrapolate for shallower layers and get pretty close. If 6s is good at 50 microns, then 4s will (most likely) work for 30 micron and 3s will be ok for 20 microns.

Those settings look good to me. AA is up to you, 4x is plenty.

Ah sorry, missed the question about the advantages. Smaller layers will give you better resolution in the Z axis (straight up), but the bigger advantage (for me at least) is that you can get a lot closer to horizontal with the plate and not have any bridging issues. You can see here: https://github.com/....../temp/slice_angles-van_kesteren.jpg how the layer height impacts critical angle (the angle where you'd need to add supports)

Mi Ha thanks for all the nice intel :) i will try it out! have a good night

I normally don’t hollow stuff unless I’m printing big monsters.

I hollow pretty much everything that can be. 1mm to 1.5mm thick. As big a drain hole as you can

All hollow

See, that's the kind of thing I'm talking about. Because I'm not really sure you'd need it solid. Is it hard to hollow those out?

Chris Robinson hollowing is easy. Supporting all the new islands that can be created internally - that's a bit more fun.

No islands. Just thicken up the shell until they vanish.

found crates and barrels needed to be 0.02 thick to be worth hollowing. also make a large drain hole. i mean a large one or you will be draining forever and making a big mess

Nathan Kopp mine are 1mm walls, strong enough for terrain but not for stuff that gets handled a lot

Richard Humble ballsy man i couldn't do that thin

Nathan Kopp ? I print most things at 1.5mm. Plenty strong. 1mm is still strong enough but not for regular handling.

depends on the size for me. its 2 to 3mm. i need my stuff to be able to take a fall or so.

This stuff is so light it will take it fine

Nice! just started painting my warlord.

Can any one send me the stl for these?

Can't have one of those - I would need a bigger house. ?

Emperor titan here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3239357

Paul Davison thank you very much mate

By the Emperor's balls, man! You'll be needing to charge it rent!

Richard Lacy instead of having toddlers maybe I'll have a few of these running around instead

You know the 'mini' bit of 'miniature' is supposed to mean 'small', right? ^_^

Richard Lacy you know that miniature means "small version of the original" right? ? According to some rulebooks an original titan is 33 meters tall ?

Dingo

Oh boy... it's cold around your place... them titties!

Alexandre Gilbert cannons aimed at the ship

very nice print

Great to see it worked out :)

Wow! Super ! Please modell printer !

Nice! I'd like to see how did you set up the supports!

Igor Melnyk anycubic photon

Szabolcs Matefy probably excessive but it worked well

Sjef Blaster me too cheers again for your help

Thanks a lot!

Szabolcs Matefy not a problem

Very nice ?

put it at a 15 to 45 degree angle

Upright at an angle. You don’t want supports on both sides.

Like this, for example?

Terry Hobbs more straight up and down, slightly angled from there.

This much support?

No, I just used auto supports to illustrate the idea. I will be placing my own when the time comes.

Flat.....or 45° never right

I'd print it straight up. Minimise the supports

Something like this 17mm or q size I believe.
Thank you ?

I may be old fashioned, but I believe that engagement rings should be made out of metal, not resin.

Peter Teal very true.
It’s only temporary until the proper one is bought.
The guy wants to propose on Monday and simply can’t get out, so it just the gesture really.

Kevin Rutter Can he order one online and have it shipped? Didn't mean to be a jerk.

Peter Teal no worries buddy.
One has been ordered but delivery is to long.

https://www.yeggi.com/q/ring/?o_f=1&o_s=0

Xi-Sheng Luo thank you

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11723

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12448

Leslie Quick O'Donnell thank you