Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EMS

Cure both sides equally, the resin shrinks a little bit as it cures. A rotating platform or mirror help.

Jason Pedersen I use a rotating jewellery stand under a plastic plant pot lined with 5m of UV leds. A couple of minutes number that and the cutting is done, and lightly suntanned lol

Michael Alexander Caddick easy setup, it sounds. Been toying with building something so I'm less reliant on the AZ sun, for consistencies sake.

You could also try curing in water, I find it speeds up the process and helps with a whole variety of things.

Cure it in water...it’s the way of ensuring a good even cure and prevents warping

place the thin object on a bit of glass. place another, heavier object on your print to keep it flat. aim a uv lamp up from under the glass. flip it after the one side is done curing and repeat for the other.

Cure it on the plate

when I have that problem I put the item into the sink and then add hand hot water for a few moments. I can then drain the water and push the warped item onto the flat bottom of the sink as the hot water makes the print more malleable.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I have an idea at least what to try.

Never had this issue. Used 10l of it

Looks like light bleed

Dave Smith is there any solution to that?

Martin Martinez tends to be a indicator that your screen is going out

ı thınk bed level problem

Relevel

Increase the Base exposure time in whatever program you are using to slice. It could be that the bottom layers aren't sticking to the build plate enough.

nah, these are building up on non print areas.Starts printing fine and builds up, seems light is bleeding out

Gotcha. Looks just like a pancake from a much more common problem. Gotta say what's wrong even with a picture lol

level

Is that left behind but you are still getting a print? Most likely your screen is dying

Scott Pavlich yea getting left behind and still getting a print (crap print). Seems like yes, screen about to go

Martin Martinez Yep....it’s not a leveling issue that’s for sure. Every time one of my photons has that problem I know it’s time to replace the screen

My photon hase the exact same issue, apperantly ( according to anycubic) my motherboard is broken ( brand new mashine) its getting replaced under warranty

Yes, it is definitely a motherboard. You should contact Anycubic

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll order a new board, im sure delivery times are slow at the moment. Might as well get it going.

First use a new USB stick if you're using the one that came with the printer. Second make sure if you're plugged into a surge protector, 1. It's new 2. It's not overworked

the USB isn't new but is a sandisk one. and currently plugged straight into the mains in the garage. only had the light and printer running today compared to last night with the heater and laptop as well. or do you mean i need a surge protector?

Joe Bone sounds like you need a new surge protector for just the printer. This happens a lot on normal printers and large current drawing devices

will have a look and sort one suprised as it printed fine last night but not today

Joe Bone is it plugged directly into the wall?

yeah directly into a mains socket.

Joe Bone GFI or regular?

Regular 3 pin outlet

Joe Bone ok then that shouldn't be it. Let's talk about temperature. You said it's in the garage. Does the power brick have a sufficient amount of airflow across it or is it buried behind a counter or something?

Sat on the counter behind not a huge amount of air flow but also bloody cold out there atm

Joe Bone so I would guess, either it's a fluke or a possibly bad power supply. If it's the power supply it'll start happening more often

Happened about 4 times today. Have given up for now until I got advice Haha. Will get looking for a new power supply was a secondhand photon anyway.

And can you be more specific about your 'problems'?

Paul Yanzick I just changed my FEP and at the time of printing the plate sticks to the fep and you hear it peel off I guess that makes the print fall

Gus Alfaro the pop sound when printing is usually a good sign. It's the print pulling off the fep and sticking to the plate right. Have you had failed prints with it though?

Gus Alfaro Peeling noise is normal, especially at the start since your build plate is making contact with the entire FEP. As Andrew has asked, are the prints actually failing? What exactly are the 'problems' you are experiencing now?

Andrew Coulombe the print falls and I don't know why? I put thick support and it falls

Gus Alfaro is it breaking away from the supports, or coming away from the plate?

Andrew Coulombe the supports are broken

Gus Alfaro sounds like a suction issue with the print. Try to re-angle the print so there's less contact with the fep. Also sometimes too many supports can cause issues themselves. Could you post some pics of what you're printing and your settings?

Andrew Coulombe

Paul Yanzick Here it is without supports

Gus Alfaro which resin are you using?

Andrew Coulombe anycubic grey

Gus Alfaro ah cool that's what I use to. Here's my settings

Andrew Coulombe why 12 and 10.5?

Gus Alfaro I've just found it works for what I print. Just been doing these today.

Here's a picture with supports for the guy in the middle. Didn't use a lot, and printed pretty perfect.

5.5 on the exposure to me would be something I'd use on transparent resin cause it takes much less.

Paul Yanzick before changing the FEP the prints came out like this

Gus Alfaro hmm is this the first change of your fep?

Andrew Coulombe yes!

look at my test

Ok may be a silly question, but did you remove the film on the fep before installing it? I know I didn't with my first ?

Andrew Coulombe yes both ?

Gus Alfaro ok few more ideas then. Did you hollow the model?

Andrew Coulombe yes!

And add drainage holes?

Andrew Coulombe yes too

Sounds like you're doing everything right then. Have you tried printing something you know already works ?

Andrew Coulombe yes, I printed the head that I showed and some supports have been cut

Only other thing I can think is the resin being the issue then possibly? I had problems with some prints before, which then started printing fine after I used new resin.

Andrew Coulombe ? ? ? you're right

Gus Alfaro well hopefully I've been some help. That's about the limit of my knowledge on printing ?

Andrew Coulombe Thanks a lot

Ya. Are you asking if changing gave me any problems of the fep giving me problems before I canged?
The presses is a little bit but a YouTube vib should get you through. The fep itself can get a little cloudy if it's really bad you will notice a resolution drop on your prints, nothing extream
Should only change if its leaking

Lol, I thought it was cheese

I had something similar and what I discovered was that a job would complete but then the next would fail because of resin left on the fep from the successful one. Not 100% cured but enough to make it fail.

Turned out the LCD was failing and was Curing a 'shadow' on the fep between layers when it should have been dark.

Changed the screen and it was fixed, improvement in print quality too!

That might be it. I've also emptied the vat and the fep looked fine. This is the exposure test

I think my screen failed. I turned it off and back on again and then it was acting normal...? That's so weird

Benjamin Matthew Harding mine looked fine on the exposure test but it was clesrly letting UV through when it shouldn't have.

Hmmm.. what's weird for me is it wasn't doing any uv light and then after turning it off and back on, it showed up again. If this doesn't print then I'll have to get a new screen for sure

If your screen is old (mine was 14 months old with no dead areas) you may be best doing it anyway, the improvement in print quality very noticeable!

It's only 3.5 months old, as I got it for a Christmas gift for myself.

Hmmmm, there is no saying how long each one lasts. I've heard of people having them degrade in that time though. I was just lucky.

Dang. Well thanks for your advice. We'll see what happens

Benjamin Matthew Harding Good luck,

Since it hasn't yellowed at all, it may be possible to increase he exposure a bit more.

looks like the circle could be fixed by putting a heavy support at the lowest point and standing it up a bit straighter.

The lines on the flat part are layer lines. that could be reduced by using antialiasing or standing up straighter

Your supports are off. They should support the edge towards the bottom as well. You can remove maybe 70% of the rest because they don't serve any purpose, but that bottom one at the lowest edge is crucial.

Corner of the X shaped rect. lost :(

You need to support the lowest points

Like the people before me already stated, your supports placement is wrong... You need to place a support at the point closest to the buildplate, in this case right on the edge.
As far as we can see in the pictures, your support is connected to the par t higher than where the lowest point of the part is.
This causes the edge 'to curl up' because it actually stays on the FEP until the rest of the part is printed and pulls it off the FEP.

14saniye exposure-50sn bottom exposure-bottom layer 8 ile photon'da bu reçineyi kullanıyorum. Herhangi bir sıkıntıya rastalamadım fakat piyasada bu reçineden bulamıyorum artık, siz nereden temin ediyorsunuz? Hikmet Gumus

Hikmet Gumus ?

I normally don’t hollow stuff unless I’m printing big monsters.

I hollow pretty much everything that can be. 1mm to 1.5mm thick. As big a drain hole as you can

All hollow

See, that's the kind of thing I'm talking about. Because I'm not really sure you'd need it solid. Is it hard to hollow those out?

Chris Robinson hollowing is easy. Supporting all the new islands that can be created internally - that's a bit more fun.

No islands. Just thicken up the shell until they vanish.

found crates and barrels needed to be 0.02 thick to be worth hollowing. also make a large drain hole. i mean a large one or you will be draining forever and making a big mess

Nathan Kopp mine are 1mm walls, strong enough for terrain but not for stuff that gets handled a lot

Richard Humble ballsy man i couldn't do that thin

Nathan Kopp ? I print most things at 1.5mm. Plenty strong. 1mm is still strong enough but not for regular handling.

depends on the size for me. its 2 to 3mm. i need my stuff to be able to take a fall or so.

This stuff is so light it will take it fine

OMG, even miniatures are not safe from corona virus :O

Try wiping the build plate with acetone, that fixed that issue for me

I think your room temperature should really be a bit higher - around 23C-25C optimal. Could also be that the resin needs to be mixed better. I know I've had successful prints and then printed straight away afterwards and the next one has failed - my assumption for that failure is that the resin has settled in the VAT. next print, nothing else changes but I put the resin back in the bottle and shake it like crazy and the next print is perfect.

Thanks! But in my case I mixed the resin after the first one that failed, and printed this next.. plus this doesn't really explain why printer just stopped working on the same side and just didn't print a chunk of the miniature..

Also, do you think it might be a broken screen?