Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Looks about like mine which has been working fine.

Looks right to me

I used clear packing tape ?‍♂️ ?‍♂️

why ?

Izak Fields When the FEP leaks it protects from resin getting underneath the screen.

Izak Fields when you get a resin leak, the tape will prevent the resin from leaking down into your screen. Ask me how I know....I’m currently waiting for my new one which may take a long time due to coronavirus

you did great

I used one of those pre-cut vinyl stickers but this looks totally good

You did it more or less the way I did

Looks good. It's what I use as well.

This prevents the Fep tilting the display and damaging the connection cable. Leaking is the next problem.

I took mine off, I couldn't get the bed to level and prints to stick with it on. May try again.

Kathy Oettle Ouch

If all else fails, try some plate bond from monocure. I love it.

It's a damned sight better than having the damned thing pulled away from the base like mine did. Can you explain why u are using kapton as opposed to any other type of tape? I mean, will not regular clear tape do the job?

Looks just like mine, already saved me from a punctured FEP once too

Kapton is made to work at very high temperatures, other than that I can't really think of why it would matter, it's similar thickness to cellotape

Charles Davenport it is super thin also.

What type of tape do you have to use? Or does anything work

Waste

For a moment there I could not understand how someone managed to picture my Photon

Anyone know if ptfe tape would work? Its 0.075 mm thick. will it affect prints?

Looks good to me, I did the same and it works great.

That's what I did but no overlap in the corners, so you just have one thickness all around.

Thank you for the feedback everyone! I need to install a new FEP as well because I'm a noob and damaged my current one

Charles Davenport it's due to how thin it is, checking in at about 0.055mm thick. Also otherwise known as polyimide tape. Basically the thinner the better for leveling the plate and ensuring your prints work as intended.

I just did that yesterday - AnyCubic has a great video so I did it easily

Where is damaged?...

I don't see damage from this photo

This doesn't look damaged

This scratches is Just normal, print on them. Change when really be damaged or when is not clear from scratches ;)

Ain't that affecting the print quality / resolution by lifting the VAT upwards?

Thats how i do it...

I added mine after plate was level and printed about a month as I keep forgetting to order some then wait for post, and it prints just the same after the tape was added, I didn't think it would be a problem if the plate is level already

I have worse looking mask on mine and still done 60hrs plus prints and it's still going after washing and changing resin, fep doesn't looks nice after few prints quickly but seem to still work really well, prints look just as good as always, and my fep look much worse than yours

Kathy , You learnt the same way as me I gather.. With mine I had resin all through the Printer as well as a broken screen.

That’s what we do

That's exactly how I have mine after one incident of resin getting under the LCD.

Seems like a lot of people are in a rush to get their models out and need to protect their screens.

broken how

i just did mine yesterday as well 8-)

Be on the lookout for rising corners of the tape at the top right. Excessive curling could make you need to replace it if it then gets in the way of bed leveling.

Markus Atreides Garma thanks for the heads up!

Space duct tape. I use it too lol

Is this smart to do for the Photon s too?

Henrik Skogstrøm definitely

Jarkko Liutu kapton tape is used because it's extremely thin. So nope.

Mine looks almost the same and works great

Yup, I do it. And I had a FEP leak, and the tape stopped the resin from leaking into the gaps. But also, the resin retarded the tape's adhesive, so I sort of feel like I got lucky, really.

FFFFFFK why didn’t I think of this before replacing 3 screens on my Creality, then replacing it with a Photon ? ? ? ? .

I’m on it !
But does the yellow tint not affect the UV exposure?

Joe McCluskey it's only on the very edge of the glass, and the screen doesn't go to the edge, so no UV goes through the tape.

Lorenzo Di Sante yesh I know it is thin. But in my logic if its 0.05mm thick it lifts vat 0.05mm and causes something to exposure for sure. I bet those prints are more unsharp a bit.

Jarkko Liutu the first layers are overexposed anyways to build the adhesive base. Also the tape gives thickness only on the very distant edges of the screen, the fep film is a flexible drum and will still be pushed onto the screen.

Sounds logical. Thanks for the clearance. Stay safe!

Jarkko Liutu it would highly affect it because light bleed due to the tiny gap. Fortunately, the build plate or print itself presses into the fep film putting pressure on the lcd making the gap less critical. This is just my observations and idea,

Ken Ishio well, I was thinking the light bleed / leakage too due my experiece in different exposure techniques in fine art print making.

While taping my screen I pay attention to keep the tape distant as much possible from the center, and I also have long exposure on first (6) layers, my printing quality hasn't been affected in any way and I also made prints with completely full building volume

For example this is a print at full building volume

Without the tape obviously it's easier to do everything properly, but the tape doesn't make me scared of having a picture on the fep

You also need to consider that the edges of the screen are 2 or 3 centimetres distant from real active area of the screen and that the fep drum is "stretchy" and tends to stay sticked onto the screen for static electricity effect, some people put a tin y amount of baby powder onto the screen to prevent the fep to stick too much on the screen (due to vacuum sealing effect), while with the tape on the edges the fep shouldn't be able to stick onto the whole screen but it will stay onto the screen only in the real printing area and should help the print to pop off the fep on each layer switching. So in some logical way the tape could help layers detaching during the printing process. It's an hypothetical reasoning, I can't prove it sadly

I had one in 1 peice, how are you suposed to line that up and apply it?

kaptain? (captin?, captn) is the choice, as its so thin. https://images-wixmp-ed30a86b8c4ca887773594c2.wixmp.co......

Kapton - close enough ;)

Lorenzo Di Sante thank you!

Ken Schmitt do you mean you have one tape covering the whole screen and edges?

Henrik Skogstrøm make sure to apply the tape more distant from the center as possible but still covering the seam between the screen and the machine base (because it's what you want to protect)

Looks right to me

Nikola Pijanac when you replace the LCD, it’s good insurance to seal it; the new LCDs don’t even come with double sided tape.

Nothing to do with rushing.

I use it it’s good

I use this. Mach5ive Stick On Vinyl Gasket for 3D Resin Printers - Universal Protection from Resin Spill, Internal, LCD, FEP Film - Resin Resistant Vinyl - Portable Vinyl Protection - 4.7" W x 7" L [3-Pack] https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai......

Damn! Wish I knew about this before having to replace my screen! What's worse is that the Photon is manufactured knowing this problem exists and does nothing to prevent it or warn customers of the potential problem. Thank you, Eddie. I've just ordered mine from your url!

so i paint miniatures as context, first thing it looks like your using citadel contrast, you need a primer for them, i suggest going with army painter or ak interactive (best one is their airbrush primer, grab an iwata neo gravity feed airbrush from ho bby lobby and an air brush compressor from harbour freight) get a white base coat as thats what it is desgined for. for her blue zero suit i would prime that part black then do a paint called stormhost silver, a super bright silver. take either calth blue candy or talssar blue and apply that thinned out in layers, until the right look is achieved. an airbrush helps a lot with this. for her outer armor i would do another layer of stormhost silver and then try an orange contrast paint. her blaster would just leave gunmetal. and add some detailing in the recesses with clath blue. her hair i would prime white then do wither seraphim sepia or a yellow contrast paint with highlights. her skin is tricky. for a kinda fair skin i would do a thinned out layer of reikland fleshshade and highlight with a fair skin tone like pallid wytch flesh

An air brush isn’t necessary, although I love mine.

Are all of you paints contrast? If you have normal paint, and all of the primary colors (Red, Yellow, Blue) as well as a black and white for brightness, then you can get any color you want with mixin g. Then you can finish the model without needing to break isolation.

You could probably mix contrast paint too, but I’m not very experienced with it. I have two pots of it, but it was just because I wanted to try it.

Look up a color wheel with help mixing paints. A quick tip, gradually add new colors. Mixing too many pigments will quickly become brown.

I have all the contrast paints and they mix very well! I'll even water down and add normal dropper paint if I need to.

Pretty much. I have basic wraithbone paint and brown paint but everything else is contrast

Also thank you for the , input!

Do you mean bottom layer exposure time? Normal layer exposure should never be that high.

Also, your build plate is visibly tweaked. You might want to re level.

Either your plate or vat isn't straight...I'ld be more concerned about that straight away.

30 sec norm is 2x as long as it should be

What resin needs that much exposure?

Peter Ede cool thank you! I'm changing the settings

Nipuna Gunarathne I'm using the translucent green. I originally did it because I wasn't sure why my prints weren't sticking to the build plate.

So I'm changing my exposure time to 15 seconds, hopefully my FEP film doesn't get torn apart ?

On that note, does anyone know why it will take a month to get fep film delivered? Is Amazon cracking down on deliveries to the point where they are only doing essentials now?

Thank you for the response everyone! In appreciate all of your input. My brother told me to get the printer with the most community support and I definitely am not disappointed :)

(It's my third print)

Andy Turtle Consiglio they prioritized medical accessories because of the shortage in most countries

Andy Turtle Consiglio also try releveling your build plate https://youtu.be/K4G6ExEtk70

I actually did level (with that video as well!) it and got some good prints, it's just kind of crooked on the x axis and me being the doof I am didn't notice it ? ? . I'm kind of scared of releveling it, because I got 2 working prints with this loadout.

That said when I have some time I'll be rectifying that ugliness

Pic is a 12 hour print I did today. First large successful print I did :D

Thank you so much for your advice!

Juz Cullum +1 on the plate. The top right and bottom left are closer to the vat walls

It looks extremely un leveled

Unlevelled on the y axis? Or the x axis?

-x looks lower than +x

It does look that way, but I imagine its perspective. Otherwise nothing would stick to that build plate.

I agree

So I leveled out out again. Turns out when I removed the print bed to clean it I was making SMALL shifts in the level that was making it less effective.

check the build arm isnt colliding with the VAT

I dont know if its the angle but is your build plate skewed? It should be sitting square in the VAT. And the noise your hearing is the popping sound people talk about, its the model releasing from the FEP which then smacks the glass underneath. Its a good sound nothing to worry about.

looks REALLY angled. that plate isn't flush

Steve Ross I fixed it, it's printing so well now!

Nope, have a Photon S since November, works like a charm

I have a Photon "original" made after October. So far I have had no issues whatsoever. I know there are some reasons why it's not as good as the O.G, mods and such, but for me as a simple hobbyist it's been a most excellent device. Printed him overnight, didn't have enough resin so I lost the tips of his horns, but that's my fail not the devices.