Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » Anycubic

Think about Lift speed

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

what are your exposure settings (base and normal, IE 60sec & 8sec)? Was the model on the build plate or was it placed on supports?

Hello Tim. Both were placed on supports. First one was straight, second was inclined. Both were 40s & 8s, which was matching the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings.

Hi Merv, thanks for pointing out this resource I didn't know. More reading and testing for me! ;)

Remi Barbarin that first image looks like it should be a flat bottom rather than wavy. Without seeing your support configuration (perhaps not enough, causing the part to flex), there could be under exposure as well which will make the part more soft and flimsy. I'd check the supports to see that they are dense enough and maybe try increasing the exposure time by a second or two if that doesn't help.

Thanks Tim. Will check that out on the next builds. It's very possible I didn't use enough support.

Some useful reading..For what its worth I reckon to angle both ways off the build plate so tip back and slightly sideways if that makes sense..30 degrees off flat and maybe 10 degrees tilt..supports I do auto 50% in chitubox then go around,delete stuff in the wrong place but do all around the edges,corners especially and all extremities...partly to force the resin to print there and partly for support..I think temperature plays a great part 25c minimum, 20% inclusion of a flex type resin will help reduce brittleness , resin brand / type / colour I don't think there is a great deal of difference to be honest..A base colour that will help with painting is as good a guide as any...for me...and yes,some guys always print flat off the buildplate some never have buildplate issues, some never have to change a FEP and some never have failed prints...These people I salute..I'm not that good..or that lucky..or I'm a bit more truthful....Just tickle along quietly and learn from the ones that didn't work..because when it does...Oh Boy :) ..

This Guy is worth listening to : https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

Remi Barbarin "the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings" also indicates that it is a reference setting and (environment) temperature can be of influence...
Possibly a combination of not enough support and under-exposure.... (under exposure keeps it soft, suction will do the rest with the unsupported parts)

Scrolling by, that first pic looked like a really bad Darth Vader head...

Enjoy............................ https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

Yes angle prints and uses supports

Generally, things are going to work better if you minimize the size of the layers above the base layers. You need lots of suction/adhesion on the base layers, but past that, too much suction will pull the model off of the plate (or tear it off of the supports), hence the need to elevate and tilt for larger models that cover more surface area.

The models I've successfully printed on the plate are small figures that include a broad, flat base and then taper significantly.

Okay... But I tried the Zombie Hunter, which looks just like that, and that failed spectacularly: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69709

Bree and Akiko remix, like said, did work, and these are also like that... But I have only tried with the transparent Anycubic resin, may not be true for opaque ones like the Druckwege gray I'm using now!

What I'm also still unsure about: Do large continuous slabs of support bases on the build plate adhere better or worse than ones that have holes in them every now and then? From a physics perspective, the latter makes more sense, cause the smaller the continous area that needs to be ripped off the FEP, the less the suction forces are - or what am I missing here?

If it's failing after your base layers, your regular exposure is too low. If it worked with one resin, it should work with all of them, once you get the settings for that resin dialed in.

The opaque resins usually need a higher layer exposure than transparent resins.

Google Photon exposure finder, and you'll have a great place to start.

Fred Bey Druckwege has run their own test and provide ideal detailed settings for every color, layer height (!) and many printers (among those the Photon and Photon S).. So I just used those!

Daniel Kottmair unless they ran their tests wherever your printer is, they are just a good starting point. Delamination means you need higher exposure.

Fred Bey True, my printer stands infront of a tilted window..

And thanks for the hint about delamination! ;-) i'm still learning so much about this..

No worries. We're all in this mess together. Lol

Lower temperatures will cause the resin to need longer exposures. Just a thought.

Which slicer?

Tried with Photon slicer and chitubox. I have other 4 photons and with the same files they print all well.

oh ... seems like weaken LCD then

It happen in two printers at the same time. I bought this both in the same order. Could be a firmware problem or I must replace the LCD sure?

I have LCD but, It's cheaper the other solution hehehe

Mail to Anycubic they will help you with latst firmware and debug the current one ...if not solved ... then only take step to replace LCD

lot of thanks Deodatta Daulat Gosavi

what is your firmware version?

the latest -1, I mean, I usually update all with the previous version than the current one

Carlo Mariani need to end by .18 for the photon

Simon Leclerc as I remember the version I discard it is .19 so it might be .18

Carlo Mariani absolutely.

How (and when) are you removing your supports?

I can imagine you get those potholes by just tearing the supports off...

Also if you watch 3DPrintingPro’s youtube again, he tells you he puts the heavy supports to make it stick to the buildplate but that it also (could) damage the model... which is why he "hides" them on a side that is not seen...

Xi-Sheng Luo After printing I clean the print with IPA and put in under the sun for 15mins.

The supports are removed after that but I admit I did tear them off a bit (as they are a bit too hard...)

Sorry I’m a total newbie and made quite a bit of mistakes... will watch 3DPrintingPro again as I may have missed a lot of important bits from the videos...

Jonathan Shih possible damage aside, if you remove the supports before curing in the sun, there should be less damage.
Still some, but less.

So: Print -> Clean -> Remove Supports -> Cure.

Xi-Sheng Luo thanks for your advice, still a long way for me to learn in this 3D printing journey...

Sadly you did nothing wrong, this is what it always does when exposed to UV, ironically. Apparently you can get UV-blocking primer or lacquer coating which will prevent it but not found any yet.

Simon Wilson huh. So why do they make clear if it doesn’t stay clear (since I’m assuming leaving it in the sun would do the same thing?)

Nothing, it's just cheap resin, cheap clears and whites will yellow

Do you have a suggestion for a clear that wont yellow, by any chance?

Riika Magnus monocure

30 seconds to cure

Good question! I tested my prints by putting them on the window sill and they gradually yellow over the course of a few days, not really used it since as I needed it to be crystal clear like when it's just freshly printed! Maybe there's a better one out there that probably costs more?

It will lighten back up likeiy

I have heard (from somewhere) that if you immerse it in water while curing, that it will prevent the print from yellowing. ?‍♂️ worth a try maybe

Stefan Giudici Thanks, I'll check it out!

John Chrapkowski 30 second?! Oh, I really over did it, LOL.

Kyle McPherson Interesting!! Maybe the water refracts the UV rays so they aren't so harsh?

Riika Magnus from what I remember the yellowing is due to air exposure.

So there is a technical reason why finding clear polymers that don’t yellow with UV exposure is really difficult, from my meetings with epoxy resin manufactures, the polymer in question needs to be completely stable and non-volatile, which is incredibl y expensive to manufacture. It is theoretically possible to create a clear photocurative resin for 3d printing with the same principle but you would be paying $$$ per liter

Riika Magnus You need to estimate how much "resin needs to be cured"
The "wireframe" is very thin so does not need a lot of extra time curing.

If you'd print a solid block of that size, you might need more than 30 seconds....

Xi-Sheng Luo Good to know, thank you!

Miles Redman Thank you for sharing! Very interesting!

Riika did nothing wrong people! Nothing wrong! It’s not her fault the resin producing cabal LIES!

I’ve heard heating it significantly will remove some yellowing, but haven’t tested myself yet.

You did nothing wrong, sadly that's what happens when you cure your "clear resin" prints

Humm... Like, say, with a heat gun?

Just a little cross-linking of the resin.

All clears will yellow under UV, some more than others- but I’d say that it’s overcured. Thin parts need much less time. 60 sec might even be too long.

I’ve had pretty good luck so far with the Clear Blu from Siraya Tech.

Riika Magnus , something like that. Once again, this is only what I’ve seen in other groups. Might want to look into it a bit more before attempting.

Nice.. ? ? ? Mr cleaning is based on? Better ore equal to ipa? Thanks ?

Ivan Del Bene I’ve never used IPA, I just watched a video from Uncle Jesse comparing Simple Green, Mr. Clean, Mean Green and IPA. He liked Mean Green the best but I wasn’t able to get any so I went with Mr. Clean.

Hello Riika! Check out my Newbie resin printing Guide. It should be usefull for you!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/permalink/1959611750850124/

In this particular issue - Clear resins tuen yellow when cured longer than 60 sec (resin dependent) So use little time for cure.

Tom Sargison thanks, I will check that out!!

Riika Magnus wich is the main ingredient of it? Ammoniac or alchol based? ?

A lot of people are having to use alternatives to IPA. Riika Magnus another option that doesn't seem to be leaving the shelves is denatured alcohol. Like this stuff https://www.homedepot.com/....../Klean-Strip....../100139444 . I just bought some Simple Green to try out, because there is 0 IPA anywhere as would be expected.

Ivan Del Bene Mr. Clean is ammoniac based. Are you posing that question because ammoniac should be avoided?

Chris Armstrong nono I was thinking about it because I replace tamya solvent for my airbrush with a glass ammoniac product.. And worth it ? ?

Riika Magnus in conjunction to what he said about the resin cure time, if it sits stationary in the uv light, you’ll have those spots that are more heavily exposed. It’s good to rotate the print in the light, or have total exposure from all sides to evenly cure.

Corey Ardwin That I do know. I am just temporary using my UV nail dryer (I actually do use that for my nails, LOL) until I build a curing box (it will have reflective sides, UV strip lights and a solar turner). In this scenario I cured for 60s, then rotated the object, and did that three more times as I was unaware that 60s probably would have been sufficient, LOL.

Autosupport?

failing how. not sticking to the build plate no supports forming. or supports forming but no models. ? if not sticking to the bed. and you printed the test model ok. then dial up the base exposure by 10. and repeat if you need to. model not forming but base sticking to plate. dial up exposure by 2. remember resin settings are just a starting point you still need to raise or lower depending on printer.

if you have a hole in the fep and resin is leaking best to change the fep sheet. and clean up any resin. filter the resin as you pour it back into the bottle incase of bits in the resin from failed prints. :)

Mark Wardle the base layer sticks to the plate, then there seems to be an issue with he following layers sticking onto the fep

Stephen Colin Richie nah I manually support.

Check out my Newbie resin guide. Maybe it will me helpfull
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bod3d/permalink/239625677038736/

Normal exposure time is waaaaaay too much, bottom exposure increase and bottom layer increase. It should be printable on the supports u made, IMHO resin settings are problematic

I appreciate the guide, but it seems to be more trouble shooting and I don't have the time or read through all of that. I work a full time job, run my own business, and go to college full time. So I sorta need an answer that can be given to me in quick forum time or YouTube video.

Darko Miljak my normal exposure for the first two prints that failed were 7 and 10 as per the resin anycubic resin guide. I bumped it up to the max that has had success per the guide and it failed again

So I don't think it's exposure time cause I've been playing with jt

Eric Causeway Well we are all busy people) same full time job 3d printing busines, no collage (thanks god). But Solving issues needs time. Want it solved - find time. 3d printing troubleshooting is time consuming. In quick form i can onlyname 4 things: 1) Plate Leveling 2) Support settings 3) exposure settings 4) Slicer bugs (lost or currupt layers.)

I level the plate after every print cause I'm paranoid like that

I manual support, and have been using the same setting for 30 or so prints. So I'm not sure that's the issue because I have had success each time prior

The tuning of the exposure has been changed after the first fail. I originally using settings from the resin guide. Then went to 10 normal 3xpisure. Failed. Then went 15 normal exposure and cranked bottom exposure up by 10

Also i see that you got 2 types of heads but same heads have different supports patterns. And main problem that it is listed in my guide - You start suporting incorrectly! the ball joint is lowest point and it has only one support! You must have atleast 3 point near first object layers for a nice sturdy start

Anycubic grey 60\7sec is correct. use 8-10 base layers count.

So here are the settings I've used so far

Print 1 failed
Layer height.05
Normal exposure 7

Off time 4
Normal exposure 10

Bottom exposure 70

Bottom layer 3

Print 2 fail
Layer height.05

Normal exposure 10

Off time 4
Normal exposure 10

Bottom exposure 70

Bottom layer 3


Print 3 fail
Layer height.05
Normal exposure 7

Off time 4

Normal exposure 15

Bottom exposure 80

Bottom layer 3

Why would it suddenly give me problems now? I've printed over 50 heads exactly like this :(

So, what's changed since your last successful print?

Stephen Colin Richie nothing, same settings, I keep my house at the same temp, set the heads up like I always do with bits like this, same resin

Is why this issue is annoying the snot out of me oh and I do the same exact dance that I always do what I'm shaking my resin bottle

Eric Causeway a cant answer that. But 3D printing is a technology that doesnt come with any Guarantee =) It can work out this time but fail another time. Just a mater of case.

Sounds a little like the problem I posted about. How old is your lcd.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/permalink/1975105972634035/

Chris Crute a month