Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Hello Friends. Another Newbie's Resin Printing handbook Update is released (v1.3)
- Added general settings for slicers
- Anti-Aliasing tips
- Resin exposure times determninig test.

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So i have finaly managed to get Anycubic to share with me a document of Their Clear Green resin examination report. According to this report resin is classified as medium hazard (two out of four grades possible). That already means - "handle with caucion".
STOT classifacation as "Category 3" (This category only includes narcotic effects (dizziness, drowsiness) and respiratory tract irritation (sore throat, cough). These effects, while adversely altering human function, are of short duration after exposure, and do not result in significant alterations of structure or function following recovery.) It is not deadly but this report as little data in it. All toxicological affects are stated as "NO DATA". And it doesnt contain any recomendations on ihale protection. Only eyes and skin protection. That is very strange because they state that Inale ma cause allergica irritation and cough (wich in many cases can be severe). In My opinion this report only gives us a clue about general harazrd amount resin contains and what it is made of.

I did my own brief reserch about resin contents:
Urethane Acrylate - is safe in finished form (hard cured or in not cuired form (doesnt meant you can drink it!). BUT if heated (required temperature stated as 100celcius) it starts to produce hazardous vapors of Fenol and Phormaldeghyde that can lead to chronic poisoning. Concidering required temperature it cannot be considered very hazardous (still not 100% safe).
Acrylate monomer - Experimental and clinical studies have documented that monomers may cause a wide range of adverse health effects such as irritation to skin, eyes, and mucous membranes, allergic dermatitis, stomatitis, asthma, neuropathy, disturbances of the central nervous system, liver toxicity, and fertility disturbances.
Photoinitiator - is believed to be toxic to aquatic organisms. Releases to the environment are to be avoided. Can cause skin and breating organs irritationa nad allergic reactions (same as other contens of resin)
Must remind you that allergy is underestimated. It can be a danger to your life. Please be carefull.

So to summ things up:
Resin is not deadly if inhaled by accident. Get to fresh air and rest if you feel dizzy.
People with breating problems (astma or anything close to it) must pay extra attention to proper breating protection (use respirator advised in my guide).
As all chemicals your reaction to them can be different. Some people can suffer headaches some can have high blood pressure allergy or god knows what else.. Some wont even notice anything. We are all different!
Be smart! Wear protection. Dont test your health for nothing. Consequences can be unpredictrable. Spend extra penny to protect your and your family's health. (get a raspirator, get a cabinet or any suction vent system.

PS this post is intended as educational and for precaution. Not to scare anyone from resin printing as some said.
Yes im readdy for your rotten tomatoes. Bring them on! ?

所以, 我終於找到任何立方體給我分享了一份他們清晰的綠色樹脂檢查報告的檔案. 根據這份報告, 樹脂被歸類為中等危險(可能的四個等級中有兩個). 這已經意味著". 處理caución ".
Stot分類為"第 3 類" (這一類僅包括麻醉效果(頭暈, 溺水)和呼吸道刺激(喉嚨痛, 咳嗽)). 這些影響雖然對人的功能產生負面影響, 但在曝光後是短暫的, 不會導致結構或功能的重大改變. 這不是致命的, 但這份報告中很少的資料. 所有毒理學影響都被描述為"沒有 資料", 而且它沒有包含任何關於ihale保護的回應. 只有眼睛和面板保護. 這很奇怪, 因為他們說inale ma會引起過敏和咳嗽(在許多情況下可能是嚴重的). 在我看來, 這份報告只給我們一個關於harazrd將軍含有的樹脂數量和它是由甚麼組成的線索.

我為樹脂內容做了短暫保留:
Urethane丙烯酸-成型安全(硬治癒或未治癒的形式(不代表你可以喝它!)! . 但是如果加熱(所需溫度為100攝氏度), 它開始產生可能導致慢性中毒的芬諾和phormaldeghyde的危險蒸汽. 調節所需溫度不能被視為非常危險(仍然不安全).
丙烯酸單體-實驗和臨床研究表明, 單體可能會對健康造成廣泛的不良影響, 如面板, 眼睛和粘膜, 過敏面板病, 胃炎, 哮喘, 神經系統神經系統的擾亂, 中樞神經系統 和生育擾亂.
光發起器-據信對水生生物有毒. 應避免向環境排放. 可能會導致面板和繁殖器官刺激nad過敏反應(與其他樹脂的抗力一樣)
一定提醒你過敏被低估了. 這可能對你的生命構成危險. 請小心.

所以總結一下:
如果意外吸入樹脂不是致命的. 如果你覺得頭暈, 呼吸新鮮空氣, 休息.
有繁殖問題的人(astma或任何接近它的東西)必須特別注意適當的繁殖保護(使用我的指南建議的呼吸器).
就像所有化學品一樣, 你對它們的反應可能不同. 有些人可能會頭痛, 有些人可能有高血壓過敏, 或者天知道還有甚麼.. 有些人甚至不會注意到任何事情. 我們都是不同的!
聰明點! 戴上防護. 不要白白測試你的健康. 後果可能無法預測. 花額外的錢來保護你和家人的健康. (得到一個raspiator, 得到一個櫃子或任何吸氣系統.)

Ps這個帖子是為了教育和預防. 不要像一些人所說的那樣嚇唬任何人.
是的, 我準備好了你的腐爛西紅柿. 讓他們來吧! ?

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

1) Z tower was changed by a warranty. First one was extruded and sanded by hand. Second one was machined and is much better quality.
2) Atleast i wont have to dissasemble photon to setup Bearing rollers is the start to have a slop.

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Because of amount of requests i get im strugling to keep track of them in Facebook so please read this post and if you want to purchse my kit fill my Google Form https://forms.gle/BCrzUGEbLjXesA2c9

This way i wont loose any of you. Facebook started blockin people as spam in my PM. Everyone who didnt get replys from me use the form please. I will go through each request in order of application. TY.

Please be patient it may take some time!

Hello everyone! Im about a year in Resin 3D printing with my Original Photon. And I had many issues with delamination at the end or in the middle of process. So drew and printed my 4 point Build plate leveling upgrade first from plastic in my FDM printer. Yes, the design is northing new. There are several ways to do it. And im not the only one who offers this upgrade. This is my variant and it proved it self good. I done in my way and been testing it and tweaking over 6 months and my printing experience was superb. Then i thought why not make it in metal and forget about swaping it from time to time when it breaksHello everyone! Im about a year in Resin 3D printing with my Original Photon. And I had many issues with delamination at the end or in the middle of process. So drew and printed my 4 point Build plate leveling upgrade first from plastic in my FDM printer. Yes, the design is northing new. There are several ways to do it. And im not the only one who offers this upgrade. This is my variant and it proved it self good. I done in my way and been testing it and tweaking over 6 months and my printing experience was superb. Then i thought why not make it in metal and forget about swaping it from time to time when it breaks or stretches.

So i designed a CNC version from aluminum. I made 1 for my self showed it to friends in my country and they all said "Shut up and take my money". So i started making some for those who want one the same upgrade. After some time i decided why not offer my upgrades to more people here in facebook because i read posts in this group and one of the most popular problems - delamination or nothing sticking to build plate.

First post got my PM flooded asking for prices. So with the aproval of Vinicius Silva i will post Price and conditions right in the post so that you could PM me if you want to order one for your self. I will try to answer all questions in this post. It is very tyring to answer the same thing to all of the people. No offense.

So for those who wonder what it is for and what are the benefits i explain:

Anycubic is the only one (to my knowledge) who uses ball joint build plate leveling mechanism, other companies use 4 point leveling and there is a reason for it:

1) Ball joint leveling mechanism is faulty on some stock Phonots. When you tighten the set screw - the buld plate moves away from being horisontal by some hundreds of mm. It is hard to see if you dont look for this specificaly. And that is main reason for most of delaminations. 4 point leveling does not let buld place to do that.

2) Ball joint mechanism is hard to tighten strong because you rist to strip the set screw. So you always have an opportunity to ruin the level of buld plate.

3) Stock level can be ruined in cases:

- pressing hard on build plate whyle cleaning and holding it by top part

- Pressing hard on buld blate whyle cuttng of some strongly stuck prints

- When printing a part with big contact surdace with fep on 1 half of buld plate and some smaller parts on other side. While lifting up buld plate gan unlevel because of big part need more force to unstick from fep. (If you hear popoing sounds that is when part stick to fep film and build platform pulls it of the fep while going upward.

Unleveled build plate can be dangerous for the screen. If level is way off it can crush the screen.

Some benefits of the kit:

1) Much more relible printing (more successful prints)

2) Less resin waste (less failed prints)

3) You can squeez a few more mm in Z height (not a big deal but may be usefull)

4) you can overfill your vat for Longer unattended prints if you add a little bit of silicon sealant around the holes on build plate where 4 long screw enter the plate.

5) Almost impossible to ruint the leveling. No need to fear hard pressing while cleaning ot cutting prints of the build plate

6) Super easy procedure of leveling.

7) You can tighten bolts as mucj as you can. It is "buletproof" and will last a lifetime.

The kit price is (in tree popular currencies)

50 USD +10USD for shipping. (60usd in total)

or

45.5euro + 9euro for shipping (54.5euro in total)

or

38.5GBP + 7.5GBP (46GBP in total)

Same shipping rate will be from 1-5 kits. More than five will cost a bit more.

I accept PayPal or bank transfer (i give requisites)

Kit includes An instruction manual of how to install and level build plate with pictures. (In English).

I send using regular post with all way tracking.

( i have experience of sentding to Italy and England and there were no problems, tracking worked all the way)

My first post was deleted because i failed to do it correctly. This time i hope it is right.

Yo can visit my instagram (link in my profile) and see for yourself that im not a scam. Im more than 5 years in 3d printing in total (FDM) One year doinf Resin printing.

This post was authorized by Vinicius Silva
# anycubic # photon # anycubicphoton # photonS # resinuv # sla # upgrade # photonupgradekit # kit # upgradekit

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Hello people! At the moment i have a problem im strugglibg to solve. I need to make lens for RC models. Im using anycubic clear (wanhao clear) And deatail come out perfect but the lens is mate and not clear. Using medical alcohol 96% to wash. Mate surface is not because of wahing. To those that dont know - micro steps (layers) make outer surface mate when inside it is all solid smooth. This is besic mate glass + water effect. Put anything liquid on it and bam! - its clear.
My Idea was to use art brush to put on thin layer of resin after wash (on dry part) and cure it. But to my dissapointment it does not cure! I tryed different lamps, even photons screen led. Thin layer doesnt cure, it stays sticky.

So i put a drop on a plastic card and a thin layer of resin nearby. - Drop (thicker resin) did cure in a secind. Thin layer stayes almost liquid.
I tryed:
2 component adhesive resit - it becomes cloudy and tends to shring in to a drop.
tryed nail artists "Top" resin coater (the one they cure under UV light in beaty salon) - same thing thin layer doesnt cure

Ordinary lacquer is no good because it wont last long. What can i use people? Please give suggestions.

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Hi everyone! So i had issues with lines on my prints and one of the three u-groove bearings felt crunchy inside. Washing and cleaning didnt help. I went to anycubic for help and they shipped me a new Z tower (rail block) with Bearing block.
Today i finaly got to replace Z Tower and i was surprised how different they are

Left one is NEW (with silver color nut), right one is OLD (with yellow color nut)
- New bearing block is cleanes looking sharper edges and bearings are branded. All hex screws instead of some philips like on stock block.
- Rail tower is also cleaner! All edges are sharp (old ones had handmade sanding done) Botom edge of tower wich connects to redf plate is strictly 90c! as for the old one im not sure as it is also hand polished by the looks.
Bearing block moves smoothly but it is more loose on one end then on another (just a feel) as the old bearing bloch had like three zones where sliding became a lot harder for like 5mm.

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Hello friends! So i really wanted to do a rail upgrade to my photon and stubbled upon a guy Physics anonymous you tube chanel. He gave a link to blue prints. The lead to his web page where you can buy a ready bracked or pay 1$ on patreon (share or dont make sucj stupid thing with 1 dollar hasle) so i payed 1$ not big deal.. but i got scamed! No pluprint there!

All he gives in Fusion360 or Step is a stock tower with holes... Where the bracket dude!? Some proof in screenshots.

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Made and installed my EasyZ mod 3 weeks ago, had NONE failed and delaminated prints and haven't leveled bed since. Must have.

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Has anybody thought about the real purpose of a fan behind a vat? It is blowing downwards onto some sponge thing that is claimed to be a charcoal filter but in reality has nothing to do with charcoal. It is so bad at being a filter of any kind that i can see through it.. Fan blows down to basement (what for?) The only thing that heats up during prints is UV LED and it has its own fan. My came with fan blowing away from heatsink.. had to flip it. More logical would be if the fan behibd vat would blow upwards sucking the warm air from basement to heat up printing chamber and it would need dust filter. So i have taken it out, and will cover the hole with a printed lid. Later I will install a heater with thermostat.

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