Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

Hey all! I've been playing with my photon for the past 2 weeks and have gotten some really good prints! I'm starting to get the itch to print some terrain for our D&D games, more specifically some of the OpenLock terrain pieces found on thingiverse.

I was wondering for those that have printed out entire terrain sets how expensive it is? I know they're reusable which is great but I'm concerned about running through resin like its my job. Any help would be great :)

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Question: how do you manage your sanitary clean-up of resin-soaked papertowels and rags?

I have a very basic nail-salon UV kit, but having to nuke the garbage is annoying. A necessity, but annoying.

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Hi guys, where do you buy your FEPs in Europe? Also - if you have them - grey resin suggestions

This is what I'm working on now (Death Dealer)

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Tried to print the Chinese Dragon from Thingiverse
After 6 hours I had to pause the print and add new resin as it was running low

This is the outcome

Now I’m not sure
Is this due to bad supports or is hitting the pause button the cause ?

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I just finished my first miniature painting - three little owls. I also tried to respect printing tips. The model was rotated at 10 degrees and support was placed manually. As you can see, in manual mode I needed less support but the print still worked very well. Printed 3 owls at once with transparent green resin at 0.02mm with 7.5s exposure time. The model was scaled to 32x31x34 mm. Removing the 3mm height support was easy. I used hot water to remove the support before curing, which also helped a little bit.

I bought brushes with the sizes "2" and "1" and a "Base paint set" from citadel. As preparation, I covered the owls with "Corax White" spray. I wanted to paint bright and saturated base colours. But unfortunately, I found out that the colours are all darkened mixtures. For example, Yellow is named "Averland Sunset" and isn't at bright as you would paint a sun-flower or a rubber duck. So I had to mix them up. I added white to make them brighter and used a baking paper on a wet paper towel to mix the colours. The first attempt on my kindergarten level colour understanding... the colours get much brighter than expected. So I used less white. But after painting and drying, I saw that the colour became darker - lesson learned.

So I started painting... A bit trick is to prepare the right amount of mixed colour. If you need more, it's catchy to find the correct mixture for the same colour again. I sealed them with "Aegis suit", a glossy varnish. Used about 2 short colour waves from four angles and top. Now the should be bulletproof and immortal and look shinier. I even expected to get a complete polished surface, but the surface is still rough, which is also very nice.

I Never expected to need so much time. It took me 8h to paint the three owls. But hey... now I'm very proud my three sweeties and happy to try it out ? I also got much more respect for bigger paintings. I will concentrate on smaller parts.

Model:
https://www.myminifactory.com/ob…/3d-print-winter-owl-106973

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My first callibration test- but can’t read it. I am so impressed about the detail the photon s is capable of. I used the ameralabs stl und did a RERF. Is that the scaling in which the test is meant to be ???? It is so tiny I can’t even interpret it without a magnifying glass. I am using the anycubic white resin and started with 4s exposure up to 11s.
Really having a hard time to decide for an exposure time. Picture 2 and 3 show 4 sec exposure (left side) and 8 sec exposure (right side) the tiny tower only starts forming at 8 sec exposure. Before it is always underexposed I guess. But - the gaps between the building as well as the the little square wholes start to get undefined with everything more than 4 sec exposure. Which setting should I go for?

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I currently own a Photon S and I am looking to 3d print ring models, what resin should I use? and settings for that resin so I can as much details as possible?

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Just got a Photon (Or is it a Fauxton) from Anycubic.com. I ran the RERF.pws file on the supplied USB stick. Not sure how to interpret it because if I understand correctly, the exposure tests starts at 3 seconds through to 11 seconds. But the recommendations in the Photon Resin settings spreadsheets has 4 entries for Anycubic White - 3 entries say 15 seconds exposure and one says 8. Should I extend the test longer or is my sweet spot in these results?

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Hi guys, i have a question about the actual printing process, should the plate go up enough for the layer that just printed to get out of the liquid resin on the VAT? or should that layer stay under the liquid resin?

my question is because i am having liquid resin accumulate on the base of my design and drying up which makes the base of my print unusable.. this is happening with clear resin.. i think the lcd light is actually going through the cured layer and "curing" the accumulated resin on top of it.. on the green resin i never had this problem.. and the rest of the print has no problems at all.. just that bottom layer ..

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The anycubic resin seems a bit too brittle. What is the best resin to mix with it to add some flex? (Easily available in Europe please :) )

(Or am I curing incorrectly? Also considering switching too Elegoo grey)

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