Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

Did you put your printer in test mode?

I did not put it into any kind of testmode. Have i misread it? I didnt even know there was one on the Photon S

Sascha Berlin okay so the way this file is suppost to work is there is a mode that changes the exposure time for each section of the file in 2 second increments. So section one will have 2 seconds of exposure while section 2 will have 4 and so on. This way you can see which is the best time of exposure

yeah, that was my assumption, but it still looks very off since no area is somewhat decent. I was wondering if i did something horribly wrong when setting it up

Sascha Berlin i got my source files elsewhere so ill test this one for ya really quick and see what i can find out

Sascha Berlin Well, I am unable to print this particular file as I have the OG photon and can't print .pws files, So I will link to the test I used and maybe that might help you out.

https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

If unfamiliar with github, there is a green box that says clone or download in the middle right of the screen.

Dustin Cole i sadly can not use said file for the newer photon, thats why i resorted to this one. I didnt really find much else in the way rerf testing for the photon s. But thanks for trying!

Sascha Berlin does your photon only print using .pws files?

no, but i heard that both photons use incompatible rerf variants

Sascha Berlin I may be wrong but the photon S does have a stronger light so essentially it just prints faster due to being able to cure fully at a lower exposure time. So for my photon it may take 8-10 seconds for the elegoo grey to cure, where your will take 5-6 seconds. The Rerf should still be able to show you where your resin sweet spot is regardless of machine.

Does this test work on the newer Fauxtons? I watched the youtube videos and didn't see the .gcode files on my thumbdrive when I went to check.

Christopher Barton thats at elsat what i hoped. I mean the areas on each test are different in my case, just not stellar quality. Maybe its the resin not being able to at that resolution.

Why would you say you're not getting good results? #3 - #4 on first picture look entirely decent. It's almost hitting the limits of the printer.

Go with 6 seconds

on which one? first, second or third picture?

i compared them to the original file, not knowing what to expect

The right column is all out of 50 micron range that the photon could *theoretically* achieve. Since this is an lcd sla there is always going to be some light scattering so even a 50 micron pixel will cure to more than 50 microns. The resolution you're getting here between #2 - #4 is about 150 microns, which is pretty much perfect for this kind of a printer. If you need better you'd have to look at $3000+ laser slas.

Sascha Berlin The first one. #2 give you best negative (lowered) detail but is lacking a bit of positive (raised) detail. I'd go with #3 (7s) or go a bit more heavy with supports with 6s. I'm assuming the first one is at 50 micron layers? Try to do another test with lower exposure for shallower layers as they need less time to cure.

Mi Ha first one is 50, yeah. I'll just try with that! What would the advantage of going below 50 be then? (looking at your other comment as well) I have been printing at 40 most of the time but some detail looked a bit off (overexposure i guess, printed at 9/10 secs)

i would print with those settings now using x4 AA, does that make sense?

Sascha Berlin You can linearly extrapolate for shallower layers and get pretty close. If 6s is good at 50 microns, then 4s will (most likely) work for 30 micron and 3s will be ok for 20 microns.

Those settings look good to me. AA is up to you, 4x is plenty.

Ah sorry, missed the question about the advantages. Smaller layers will give you better resolution in the Z axis (straight up), but the bigger advantage (for me at least) is that you can get a lot closer to horizontal with the plate and not have any bridging issues. You can see here: https://github.com/....../temp/slice_angles-van_kesteren.jpg how the layer height impacts critical angle (the angle where you'd need to add supports)

Mi Ha thanks for all the nice intel :) i will try it out! have a good night

Since it hasn't yellowed at all, it may be possible to increase he exposure a bit more.

looks like the circle could be fixed by putting a heavy support at the lowest point and standing it up a bit straighter.

The lines on the flat part are layer lines. that could be reduced by using antialiasing or standing up straighter

Your supports are off. They should support the edge towards the bottom as well. You can remove maybe 70% of the rest because they don't serve any purpose, but that bottom one at the lowest edge is crucial.

Corner of the X shaped rect. lost :(

You need to support the lowest points

Like the people before me already stated, your supports placement is wrong... You need to place a support at the point closest to the buildplate, in this case right on the edge.
As far as we can see in the pictures, your support is connected to the par t higher than where the lowest point of the part is.
This causes the edge 'to curl up' because it actually stays on the FEP until the rest of the part is printed and pulls it off the FEP.

14saniye exposure-50sn bottom exposure-bottom layer 8 ile photon'da bu reçineyi kullanıyorum. Herhangi bir sıkıntıya rastalamadım fakat piyasada bu reçineden bulamıyorum artık, siz nereden temin ediyorsunuz? Hikmet Gumus

Hikmet Gumus ?

I remember the Anycubic coming with a yellow resin. It was super light, and was a bit fragile, but not a bad color. For blue, all I could recommend would be Siraya Blu. Sorry, lady. Mainly a grey man myself.

Michael Gonzalez I have Soraya blue, it's not quite as blue as I'd like though

Thanks anyway :)

Can you use a clear resin that you dye blue with resin dyes?

I haven’t printed any bases so far with mine. Is upright like that the best way to do them?

Justy O'White I've done upright here because sideways they wouldn't fit in the dimensions of the build plate. Smaller ones I've done both this way and flat on the base. Sometimes the flat ones chip a little removing and need some two part epoxy to work, but upright adds 1/4 to 1/3 more resin for the supports so it depends on how much extra finishing work you want to do.

Have you leveled your printer with the little legs seems to be a build up in one corner might have been able to get that last bit done

This is the big octopus I printed once upright. It turned out well this way. I had merged the base into the model because I could tell the original STL wouldnt sit on a base, but the downside was it would never print flat due to the width.

It was never a problem before now, but now that I've seen it that's something I'll be doing today.

Brendan Wood the legs on the bottom of the machines twist to level them I just use a mini sprit level you never know could have finished the print if the resin was in the middle

Vinny Bryant I had to level it to the table once so I knew about the feet, it just hadn't occurred to me that the whole thing might lean to one side a little even if all four were planted firmly against the bench lol

im i the only one who thinks bases (if not highly detailed) is waste of resin? you can make them from cardboard, EPS, on FDM printer or just dont make them at all if the mini can stand withouth it... i might be wrong but with this much resin you could make seweral minies instead

It doesn't look like it's for a mini. Anyways a nice base makes the sculpture look more finished, you can't make cardboard look good nor paint it in a way that wouldn't clash with a resin figure.

you clearly didnt heard about modpodge... but not my point these look like plane circles whats nice about them? as i sayed i get it if the base is part of the story of the model like ruin of building or defeated enemy

Petr Grössl they're fancy on the back side. I didnt take a picture before I had to leave the house. I've made bases from scratch before, but I wanted to print the ones that came with stuff I've already printed. I'm still figuring out how I want my workflow to move, but I've made bases before and it's not the most fun part for me so I'm seeing of it's easier this way.

Petr Grössl some of us play games that require a specific base size.

then please accept my sincere apology for me it looked just like plane circles. iw seen those printed before and it just hurt to see

i do play those too... i used to make them from ExPs back when i was cloning old GW models and its not thath hard if you use some geometry

Petr Grössl no worries mate, it does seem silly. I'll go out on a limb and say that it might be difficult at this moment to get other supplies to make a base from scratch and so just printing one might be easiest.

well we are just on start of this panic soon will resin be worth gold... amazon might have some in warehouses but when it runs out its over for us till the quarantine is lifted

oops

Could be a failing LCD. Do you have many hours on it?

Run the LCD test. Not that I think it's that (( LCD burn out looks a little different)) but sometimes is you have a spill resen will get on the underside of the screen and cure there. Give you round spots.

Failing screen. I’m dealing with the same issue currently

Greg Keddy no. Not really.

Barthels Marvels I’m trying a different print now to see if it does it.

Print something smaller and try to put it on the side of the plate that isn’t above where the dead pixels are

I just made a post about this in the Chitubox group. That circled arrow represents the left side of your printer when you are facing it. In case you don’t know

So bad screen? Man! I haven’t even had it a year yet.

Craig Underhill they are a consumable on these machines. I’ve had mine since Christmas and it’s toast if that makes you feel any better. Mine is pretty much running 24/7 though

Barthels Marvels thanks. I need to find a link to one here in the states at a decent price.

Craig Underhill good luck!! Amazon doesn’t have much and they are delayed understandably.

Really nice

22 hours????? .02 layer hight ?????

stl? prty pleeeeease dear sir

Tiago Lopes yup ?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3807852

Oh hey I've done that model! Much tinier though

I only get error 404 when I try to download it ....

huh didnt realized its one of zavalas... he must have updated it

It'd look good if a hammer and sickle were in the star haha

It looks heavily overexposed to me

That was my thought as well, this one was exposed at 80s bottom and 8s normal, and seemed horrible underexposed. I guess I’ll split the difference

100% I don’t know who dude was that put 18 seconds on “the sheet” but 7-8 seconds is plenty

Thats the whole purpose of a calibration test, find the sweet spot!

I’m currently running 8 bottom layers at 60s, normal exposure 9s at 0.05 layer height. Getting great results.

I'll try your settings. Thanks!

i found the non trans resins need to be 12-16 seconds usually.

You are way overexposured at 12secs

I would try 8/9 seconds exposure I think 12 is too much as well. I've posted my chitu settings and anycubic photon setting if you search the posts. They should give you a reasonable guide.

Hmm. I'm new to this, so I have no idea. Curious myself though

Totalt of topic, but what is the model on the second picture?

Anders Jens Ramm they are both pieces of titan forge "the forge"

Ryan Smith ah ok ? ?

I got you beat, my last print had evenly spaced half-tubes along the vertical face. Really bizarre. But i might have an idea what caused it. I accidentally deleted my photon from chitubox. I reloaded the default photon settings, but i believe i set it up wrong to a DLP mirror printer instead of a LCD mirror one.

And I need to update my firmware from 4.2.12 to 4.2.18 so I can take advantage of anti-aliasing.

Gary Slovinsky could be supports melting into the model.

Ryan Smith nope. Its s vertical surface and i neglected to mention the half tube shapes were parallel to the build plate not vertical. And no supports were used. The STL was from thingiverse to make the easy leveling jig.