Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

what happens if you don't post-cure the resin? just tacky? softer, more flexible? anything bad? haha

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Why can't any 3D printing/slicer software can generate a good and final auto-supports?

Let me detail it with a long text :

I'm new to 3D printing, so I'm trying to figuring out how to use auto-supports to easier print models.

I'm able to print this D&D Beholder many times without failing since it's already contains supports created by the author:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3139257

I've also printed 5 times this model, using white and transparent green resin, with different exposure times to see the final results and details.

I can print with success using 5s exposure time per layer on white resin and 3s on transparent green (failed with 1s but I will try with 2s someday)

When trying to print a baby yoda model using auto-supports, I can see there's a lot of islands that weren't supported at all. Also, in the end, it's faster and easier to manual support it by checking each layer for islands.

I've also tried a lot of softwares: Chitubox (better for me until now), B9C, Z-Suite, MeshMixer... and none of them are able to grant that the auto-generated-supports will grant a successful print.

Using Photon Validator, I can see some islands that were left behind, but why doesn't these softwares can't see these islands and fix with supports?

Anyway, I know there's a lot to learn with supports and there's a lot of users that got failed prints. A few of them aren't not by bad supports, but in the end, almost all knowledge time and efforts for a good printing is focused on supporting your model and not on the using of the printer by itself.

*sorry about any English mistakes.

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So, now that I ordered a bunch of resin to augment my supply, I see it is going to spend a lot of time in the backs of UPS trucks in the freezing cold.

My question is, does getting cold/freezing once ruin the resin? Or as long as I am working with it warm, will it still be okay?

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Learning about EXPOSURE TIME
This differs from resin to resin, right?
For Anycubic Gray, a chart I was sent shows
"Normal Exposure Time" (I am assuming that is the same thing)
But then it gives SEVERAL different numbers.
12
10,5
11
14
10
18
That there are differing numbers for the same resin is a bit confusing for a person trying to learn what all this is/means. But I am trying. I want to print the best models I can. So I want to learn what all this is.
I get that exposure time, fundamentally is how long each layer is exposed for. (Right?)
But how does that effect the model I am printing?
How do I know where to set it exactly?
Does it differ from model to model? (Like more or less detailed models?)
Thanks

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I've got two photons- one that has the anodized build plate bottom and one with a bare metal bottom. The anodized one works great and is older. The bare metal one starting getting scratched up pretty good from my metal spatula and now I am getting adhesion issues (it may be related to resin I am using, not sure yet). I heard Anycubic stopped anodizing the build plate bottoms for some reason- is there anywhere to get a replacement with the anodized bottom? Found one in a UK store but I am in the US and the price was almost $100 after shipping.

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I’m new to the group and new to 3D printing in general. I don’t have any specific hobbies where this may be helpful - but I have some ideas on things I would like to try.

I am running my first test print this morning. It’s sitting at 46% and seems to be working fine. However, things didn’t start off well.

I set everything up per the included instructions and 3D Print Farm’s leveling video. I put the resin in and hit print ... the build plate lowered into the vat and it started making a noise that I wouldn’t expect to be normal. It didn’t move up and down ... just stayed down making the noise. I don’t know how to explain it any other way than it made a sound like a push lawnmower motor would sound like. I know that sounds odd ... but that’s what it sounded like to me. I was concerned maybe the build plate was being pushed down against the FEP and the motor wasn’t stopping (again I did the leveling and z=0 process). I tried to record the sound but the fan was too loud to get a good audio clip. I stopped the print - turned off the machine - then turned back on and started the print again. It started right up and all seems to be working fine.

I know my description of the sound is odd ... but any input/ideas on maybe what happened? What I may have done wrong?

I still can’t see enough of the print to know if it’s coming out correct ... but it seems to be working fine.

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Can you guess what it is yet? And it's not a hot water bottle in the shape of an owl!

But like many it didn't come with any resin

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Hi, is it possible to color resing with acrylic paints? I read that Alcohol inks are ok, but I have a lot of acrylics at home (Vallejo, Tamiya). Will it destroy FEP or something? Thanks :)

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<--- Still a noob here, and I've searched the group for this question and found similar "is this normal" posts but not precisely.

Is it normal to have one good print then fail after fail (on the same model file) until you clean the FEP, the build build plate, filter the resin, and re-calibrate? Seems to me one should be able to do at least 4 or 5 prints before having to go through that process again.

The good thing is the repetition of that process is giving me lots of practice.

Thoughts? Thank you.

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Artel W make some great supplimental resin miniatures for the WH40k game. The level of detail and precision are comparable with the products GW produces.
They have a couple of lines that they no longer produce.
Today they are giving the master STL files away' for free. The models are already broken into parts for printing.

Enjoy.

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