Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 建議

Which would you advise? Elegoo ABS Like on Photon S.

Seems something is also wrong with my bed level ...?

你會建議哪個? Elegoo腹肌像photon s.

看起來我的床水平也有點不對勁...?

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How do I prevent warping of straight edges? Any advice on getting flat surfaces to print properly? Would it need more supports?

我如何防止直邊的扭曲? 有甚麼建議讓平面孔正確列印? 它需要更多的支援嗎?

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So I am having trouble moving stl file from WinRAR to the slicer any suggestions? So I am having trouble moving stl file from WinRAR to the slicer any suggestions?

所以, 我無法將stl檔案從winrar移到剪刀有甚麼建議嗎?

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Hi! I'm looking for more suggestions on resins to print a Ball Jointed Doll with! It needs to be sturdy enough to withstand tension when strung together with elastic.

[NOTE: I plan on making a mold, but a client wants one that's 3D printed , rather than waiting for me to make a finalized one via silicone molds & casting resin]

These are the types I've used:
- Anycubic Green printed in wonderfully crisp detail, but it's very brittle and probably wont withstand being held by elastic for very long.
- Dragon Resin (White) I'm really liking since it's flexible!
- Dragon Resin (Grey) Its also flexible but my prints aren't coming out as nicely, which could be my own issues with temperature and exposure settings
- I'm thinking of buying Dragon Resin (Flesh tone) but also want to try other brands too!

But I'm looking for some more recommendations for relatively sturdy, but more flexible resin (not brittle like Anycubic) Ideally in Skin-tone/Flesh color!

Thanks for looking! <:

嗨! 我正在尋找更多關於樹脂的建議, 以印出一個球關節娃娃! 當與彈性纏住時, 它需要足夠堅固地承受緊張.

[注: 我計劃製作一個模具, 但客戶想要一個3 d列印的, 而不是等我通過矽膠和鑄造樹脂]

這些是我使用的類型:
- anycubic green列印的細節非常簡潔, 但它非常微小, 可能無法忍受被彈性控制很久.
-龍樹脂(白)我真的很喜歡, 因為它很靈活!
-龍樹脂(灰色)也很靈活, 但我的列印沒有那麼好, 這可能是我自己的溫度和曝光設定的問題
-我想買龍樹脂(肉色調), 但也想嘗試其他品牌!

但我正在尋找一些更多的建議, 以比較堅固的樹脂(不像anycubic)最好是面板色調/肉體顏色!

謝謝你的尋找! <:

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Guys!

Does anybody use PrusaSlicer for supports? I love the easily removable support it makes, but I'm not sure if it's OK to go with it. With Chitubox most of the supports left some damage to the surface even the small ones. I've tried PrintingPro's recommendation, though the support was not that easy to remove.

夥計們!

有人用prusaslicer來支援嗎? 我喜歡它提供的容易被移除的支援, 但我不確定是否同意. 有了chitubox, 大多數支援對表面造成了一些傷害, 即使是小的. 我嘗試了printingpro的建議, 雖然支援並不容易移除.

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My First Print will be a bit more challenging then i thought. I will try to Print a stamp with using Flex 100. Any recommendations ob how to Mix with Resin or pur Flex 100?

我的第一個列印會比我想的更富有挑戰性. 我將嘗試用flex 100. 列印印章, 有任何建議嗎?

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Hello all! I just got my Anycubic Photon printer last night. I'm 100% new to 3D printing (I'm primarily an artist that creates 3d models and illustration but I've always wanted to have my models printed physically.) I have TWO Questions, with images provided.

Firstly, I printed a tiny benchy as a test of the Printer.
The print went well for most of the model but towards the end, Benchy fell off the print bed for some reason. I found it floating in the resin vat.
Could this be due to a leveling issue, or perhaps an exposure duration issue? Or a mix of both? Any advice in identifying the issues when it comes to learning the mysterious process of printing as a newbie to all this?
I believe the settings in the file were as follows

Layer Thickness: 0.05
Exposure time: 10.5
Off Time: 1
Bottom Exposure Time: 80
Bottom Layers: 8

- - - -

Secondly,
I want to print the model I made of one of my characters. He's definitely more complex than a basic Benchy Boat, and I used the provided Slicer software to auto-generate supports. My question for this model would be:
1. Does it need supports added at the tip of the braid and sidebangs? Or will those (ideally) cure to the printer bed and form as it rises?
2. Would the settings shown in the image be adequate exposure and layer thickness time for this type of a model?

Sorry for all the noob questions. But I appreciate any input, as well as any helpful links and resources so I can do some reading on my own as well.
Thank you! :)

大家好! 我昨晚剛拿到了我的任何立方體光子印表機. 我對3 d列印是100 %的新手(我主要是一個製作3 d模型和插圖的藝術家, 但我一直想要把我的模特列印出來.)我有兩個問題, 提供了影象 "我想讓我們知道,

首先, 我列印了一個小小的基準作為印表機的測試.
大多數模型的印刷品都很好, 但最終, 基準因某種原因從印刷床上掉下來. 我發現它漂浮在樹脂增值稅.
這可能是因為一個平穩的問題, 還是曝光時間問題? 還是兩者混合? 當學習作為新手印刷的神秘過程時, 有甚麼建議來識別問題嗎?
我相信檔案中的設定如下

層厚度: 0.05
曝光時間: 10.5
休息時間: 1
底部曝光時間: 80
底層: 8

- - - -

第二,
我想列印我用我的一個角色製作的模型. 他絕對比基本的基準船複雜, 我使用了提供的切片軟體自動生成支援. 我對這個模型的問題是:
1., 它是否需要在braid and sidebang頂端新增支援嗎? 或者那些(理想)會治癒印表機床, 隨著印表機上升時形成?
2. 影象中顯示的設定對於這類模型來說是否足夠曝光和層厚度時間?

抱歉所有的新手問題. 但我感謝任何投入, 以及任何有用的連結和資源, 這樣我也可以自己閱讀.
謝謝! 你知道嗎?

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Hey Guys, so... i have a few questions i would like for the community to help me with. Sorry it will be a bit of a long post xD.

I got my Photon this week. Here's what i did (questions come after :p ).

- Checked everything was working properly working, turned on the printer, checked if the Z-Axis was moving, if the screen was ok, etc.

- Ditched the stock PSU and USB drive (tested the PSU and its outputing the correct voltage but i ditched it anyway), im using another one i had here with the exact same specs, USB drive im now using a Kingston one.

- Disconnected the "smelling" fan from the main board to avoid the fumes from getting out and stinking up the place. (Planing to upgrade the stock led cooling fan, suggestions???)

- Checked every screw to see if everything was properly tightened (the buildplate wasnt, it would move even after tightening the grub screw).

- Checked the FEP tension with a sound analyzer, it was below 300hz... tuned it to 345-355hz.

- Applied Kapton tape to the borders of the screen (to avoid a spill going into the machine in case that happens).

- Adjusted the buildplate to be completely flat against the screen, made sure that the plate was making even pressure on the paper on all sides (front, back, left and right). After that i leveled the printer and set the new Z=0 (didnt forget to hit Home first :p ).

- Finally i heated up the resin (room temp was 19C) and started the default print file that came with the printer (photos attached).

So, now some questions.

1 - The new yellow windows, how good are they at blocking UV? The printer is not on a direct sunlight enviroment, not even daylight for that matter, but the room does have okayish lighting (there is no light directly above the printer), i am safe to assume resin wont cure while inside? I know i can cover up the printer but im trying to understand if its really necessary.

2 - Do you guys filter the resin and clean the vat after every print? I saw some people mentioning it... but to be completely honest i've never done that with my other printer, well... my other printer doesnt have the leaking risk this one has... So... what do you guys do?

3 - Firmware... my printer came with version 4.2.3... I dont see that in Anycubic site, anyone has the changelog for this fw? Just curious.

4 - Recommendations for resin, im looking for high detail. Impact resistance is not really important right now (Anycubic resins, how do they stack up against the competition?)

5 - Which one is better for the screen to last more? Slow or fast resins?

And for now thats it! Thanks guys...one of the reasons i got the Photon was for this awesome community =)

嘿, 夥計們, 所以... 我有幾個問題想讓社羣幫我解決. 抱歉, 這將是一個漫長的帖子xd.

我這周得到了我的光子. 這就是我所做的(問題之後: p).

-檢查一切正常運作, 開啟印表機, 檢查z軸是否移動, 螢幕是否正常等等.

-丟棄了存貨psu和usb驅動器(測試psu及其輸出正確的電壓, 但我還是拋棄了它), 我在這裡使用了另一個, usb驅動器, usb驅動器現在使用金斯敦.

-從主板上斷開"聞"風扇, 以避免煙霧出來, 讓地方臭. (計劃升級庫存led冷卻風扇, 建議???)

-檢查了每個螺絲, 看一切是否都收緊了(建築板沒有, 甚至在收緊後也會移動).

-用音效分析儀檢查了fep緊張, 低於300 hz... 調到345-355 hz.

-將kapton磁帶應用到螢幕的邊界(以防發生洩漏到機器).

-調整構建板完全平坦, 以確保板塊對紙板對紙面(前, 背面, 左和右)施加壓力. 之後, 我平平了印表機, 設定了新的z =0 (沒有忘記先打家: p).

-最後我加熱樹脂(房間溫度為19 c), 並啓動了印表機的預設列印檔案(照片附後).

所以, 現在有一些問題.

1-新的黃色窗戶, 阻擋紫外線有多好? 印表機不在直接陽光環境上, 連白天也沒有, 但房間確實有okayish照明(印表機上方沒有光), 我可以安全地假設樹脂治癒嗎? 我知道我可以掩飾印表機, 但我試著理解是否真的有必要.

2-你們在每次列印後過濾樹脂並清理增值稅嗎? 我看到有些人提到它... 但老實說, 我從來沒有和我的另一個印表機做過, 好吧... 我的另一個印表機沒有洩漏風險... 那麼... 你們這些傢伙是甚麼? 做甚麼?

3-固件... 我的印表機有4.2.3. 版.. 我沒看到在任何立方體網站, 有人有這個fw的改裝? 只是好奇.

4-樹脂推薦, 我正在尋找詳細的細節. 現在抵御衝擊並不重要(任何立方體樹脂, 他們是如何堆積起來對抗競爭的?) 你知道嗎?

5-哪一個更好讓螢幕持續更多? 慢或快速樹脂?

現在就這樣! 謝謝大家... 我得到光子的原因之一是這個很棒的社羣=)

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EDIT: Thanks everyone! The Anycubic resin I typically get won't ship to Japan via Amazon.com , but the Nova3D resin will ship to my FPO address, with Prime Shipping too!
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I Just moved to Japan from the US. Anyone have any advice or recommendations on where/how to get resin for my printer? I'm still learning the methods/issues with ordering things here. Local recommendations would be great if you know where I can buy locally! Thanks in advance!

編輯: 謝謝大家! 我通常得到的任何立方體樹脂不會通過Amazon.com運往日本, 但nova3d樹脂將運到我的fpo地址, 同時也有主要運費!
------------------
我剛從美國搬到日本. 有人對我的印表機在哪裡/如何獲得樹脂有任何建議或建議? 我還在學習訂購東西的方法/問題. 如果你知道我在哪裡可以在當地購買, 當地推薦會很棒! 提前感謝!

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First print using bucktown. Wide variety of suggested print recipes, so I ended up just using a slice from my nova black: 8/60s, .04/10s/1s. Felt a bit too soft so upping it to 12s layers, which is doing fine so far on a current print.

Fumes are worse than anycubic and way worse than nova. Chemical, with an edge of rotting oranges. This is "clear" but it reads more as pale yellow. More flexible than the nova but also still brittle.

7 days from purchase to delivery was fine.

Ultimately, I would much rather continue using nova - but at half the cost, this will be my go to for big projects and was not, based on this first run, as hard to dial in as has been reported.

I do need to sort out storage, tho. The giant can is a pain for refilling the vat. Any suggestions from others to store bulk purchases and avoid spills?

第一個使用bucktown列印. 各種各樣的建議列印食譜, 所以我最後只用了來自我的新星黑色: 8/60 s的片段. 04/10 s / 1 s. 感覺有點太柔軟了, 把它提升到12 s層, 到目前為止在目前的列印上做得很好.

煙霧比任何立方體更糟, 而且比新星更糟. 化學, 有腐爛橘子的邊緣. 這是"清楚", 但它讀的是蒼白黃色. 比新星更靈活, 但仍然微弱.

從購買到送貨7天就好.

最終, 我寧願繼續使用nova -但花費一半的成本, 這將是我去大項目, 而且根據這次第一次運行, 並不像報道的那樣難以撥號.

我確實需要整理儲存, tho. 巨人罐頭是重新填充增值稅的痛苦. 其他人有建議儲存批量購買並避免溢位?

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