Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ABS

Just had my first interaction with anycubic customer service. Problem resolved in 4 messages. Absolutely satisfied Amy !

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Last one before bed. Just printed out a test shock absorber for the tank suspension. I'm reasonably happy with it, but wondering if I can get a better spring rate, or if I should go looking for compatible springs. 80/20 Elegoo Gray- Siraya Tenacious for those wondering.

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Hey there, I’m looking for a tough resin that is available in Europe (Germany). Is there anything comparable to Siraya Blu, both in pricing and strength. I want to print some protection parts, that didn’t worked out well in ABS.

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Hey everybody!

Long post incoming, so TL;DR : What affects print precision/detail level and how to optimize for as close to pixel-perfect as possible?

I've recently gotten an Anycubic Photon S for printing minis and general learning.

Testprinting the resin test (only one part, sliced multiple times with different exposure times since I have the S, 0.02 layer height, from 2s to 8s expsoure, anycubic green) has resulted in underwhelming precision for me. neighboring features merge together heavily, with the least merging at 4s exposure, at merging below 0.3mm at the cost of features < 3px not printing/failing to print over multiple layers. If I want those to show up I have to go up to 8s at which point details merge at distances < 0.7mm. (non-free standing details blend together totally, so rivets and stuff need to be bigger than 1mm to even look like rivets and not just be bumps) small details are also (of course) not at all their width in px anymore but heavily smoothed and about 0.3mm wider in all directions.

I've also tried the same procedure with elegoo black (thinking it might be diffusion and black absorbs light right??) which performs even worse, only starting to show 1px detail at 12s.

I've inspected all the different testprints under a microscope, so It's not just that the material is hiding the detail. I also understand that I'm doing the equivalent of pixel-peeping by now, but it's more about principle and learning at this point^^

now to optimization:

as far as I can tell, the points I can optimize are: the resin, the timings, temperature, the layer height, the FEP thickness, -clarity and tension and leveling of the build platform.

I've read through as many resin suggestions as I could find and Phrozen ABS Like Grey seems to be a very good performer, as well as MiniQ LCD-5400s (post by Boon Kheng Tang showing it of a few weeks ago) the latter being much more expensive for me. Apart from that I've been hearing that a lot of people are happy with anycubic green, so I'm not quite sure how much of a factor this is.

my room temp is relatively low, about 18c. which is out of the sweet spot if I'm not mistaken. Is that much of an Issue?

timing test are very slow on the S right now, since we can't use the resin test that tests multiple timings at once yet.
What would need to be done to make that compatible with the photon S?

I tried a few prints with a layer height of 0.01mm, but got the same blended results. My thinking was that with reducing the layer curing time, I could theoretically reduce the amount of resin that cures through scattered light, but that seems to be the wrong Idea of how the process works. Do you guys generally get more detail with more cubic voxels? (eg 0.05mm layer height)

I've replaced the FEP that was shipped with the photon since it looked relatively scratched and cloudy to me already. Since I had no reference to what an actually bad film looks like, I replaced a perfectly good one and nothing changed... Does anybody have experience with thinner films? Maybe they diffuse the light less between LCD and resin? (also is that even an Issue?). The film is tensioned to 350khz.

build platform is as level as I can get it. also that should be a non-issue after the base sticks, right?

Sorry for this extremely long post. I'm hoping that you can help me understand how the process works in as much detail as possible, hopefully to write a comprehensive optimization and recommendation guide and get the best possible prints for detail out of the anycubic. The possibility is there, especially with antialiasing, for reealy nice prints with this machine, I just can't get it there without help...

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I really didn't want to bug the group so early in ownership, but I've read/search the group repeatedly, and can't find a solution. I've been trying to create replacement ceramic Christmas tree toppers. I've got the base supports fine. However, I can not get the bottom two tips to take hold.

When I tried ChiTuBox, adding supports (Even using the settings by the video that's recommended here frequently with the sphere attaching points), ChiTuBox leaves 4 layers of empty space between the top of the support and the arm. I moved up higher, making the point of the star almost to the bottom of the sphere. Still leaves 4 empty layers between the support and where the star point starts (Leaving a large crosssection by that point). The bottom is fine, so it seems like something like the fine point. ChiTuBox output throws Photon File Validator for an absolute fit as well, leaving MANY layers with rogue pixels going upwards.

I changed back to the Anycubic slicer, and did the same thing, except I just left defaults. I used a heavy support middle of the base of the star, then one for each of the points, adding some medium supports higher to help. Export, and Photon File Validator gives no errors. However, it never transitions from the point of the support to the star, even with the point of the star buried decently into the support.

I'm including photos of my last attempt. I forgot to take a picture of it with the supports on, but I circled the diagram where the star points end up starting.

50um layers, calibrated my resin, levelled my bed, cleaned all surfaces, levelled bed again (Even though never had a bed level issue), cleaned glass. Nothing seems to help.

Any help would be GREAT!

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I have been using Siraya blu for functional mechanical parts wondering if there is even better tough resin with more abs characteristics. Blu is fine but still little brittle and not good for high temperature

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Latest print with black model resin from # harzlabs , very nice results and details !

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Bunch of skulls printed at (approx) 1:6 scale as a commission. No failed prints (although the first attempt wasn’t right because of user error).

Not bad as the machine had been dormant for a couple of months and I just dismantled and rebuilt the build plate and vat to give it a thorough clean. Ameralabs resin.

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Absolutely fantastic until i dropped it and the base snapped off.
A small paintbrush and a little resin, 5 minutes in the curing chamber and it's as good as new.

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And the Bell 206 vertical stabilizer with beacon i designed mount printed.
The stabilizer printed with FDM/Prusa (easy shape aaand thin wall printing with control of the infill ftw) with the tiny beacon mount done with Photon with Ameralabs resin - love it, not just for fast print times but also for its dimensional accuracy and low shrinkage - virtually no filing needed to get those to parts to mesh together :)
Priming and painting tommorow but already looks better then the stock piece of crap done with fibre glass. Funny whole new one is lighter too!

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