Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

You know, in the latest photon file validator, you can locate the island, click it in the preview and it gives you a zoomed in view, where you can left click to add pixels and right click to remove pixels....
If the auto fix it doesnt work I do it manually, and if you remove something that is supporting a higher layer, that layer will then show up with an error for you to correct.

You could try modifying the Motion Tuning in the factory defaults file and uploading that. Not tried it yet. https://github.com/....../firmware/factory-defaults.zip

Simon Wilson thank you! I’ll look into it, but it seems a bit advanced for me at this stage.

I need to test this myself at some point as it would allow using a thread with 1mm pitch instead of 2mm, which I'm sure would have only positive effects on the resolution, so if I finally get round to it I'll post in this group. It means you could simply have a file that you select and print to reconfigure for each type of resin depending on its expansion properties, for example.

Benjamin..SO ARE WE :)

legs are way too far apart. In order for that thing to move the two front and back legs would need to face directly forwards and backwards otherwise it would rip itself in quarters.

Chris D'Andrea true. I'm just blocking things out first :)

I like where this is going.

Also, you gave me a pretty good idea! Basically I'll combine the two back "legs" into a single, shorter, beefier leg / tank.

So, how do these ones work? The platform Prints every leyer at a time controlling the different exposures without moving the build plate?

Yes - just like the "old" firmware patch version, except this one is built into the running firmware! You get base + 8 seconds for each of the 8 objects. I had to hack together an STL based on the original photon files which are too large. I didn't want to scale so we could compare printer to printer.

You double it. It's displaying 2x each number there when printing the test card, so if 7 looks best it's because it was exposed for 14 seconds.

Stefan Giudici oh wow. So I need to use 14 seconds for my clear resin?

I didn't look at your test card, you need to use 2x whatever the best looking number is tho. Good clear resins aren't very fast. Fast clear resins yellow a lot more

Ok. I'll try 14 seconds and do some quick prints (by quick I mean a few hours. Lol)

I’ve never really found this test matches up with what I end up running for clear. Monocure clear runs beautifully at 9s for a .04 layer yet the exposure test told me 14s...I’d strongly recommend running a calibration model and see where your settings look best with that: here the 12s is already showing overexposed whereas the 9 is crisp and clear...and Anycubic yellows fast compared to the Monocure

Scott Pavlich can I have a link to this calibration model? I'm using Elgoo translucent

https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.com/....../MonoMatri......

Thank you

Mika Gruszka It takes under 45min to run at .04, chose an exposure (I only do like 3 bottom layers, just enough so it sticks) then keep dropping your exposure watching closely the features...you’ll know you gone too low it that bridge area above the word Monocure shows delamination like this one

So I should reprint this with lower exposure each time?

Mika Gruszka Yep. But the nice thing is once you’ve done it unless you change resins you don’t have to do it again. I’ve kinda learned where to start and only have to print 1 or 2. And the only thing you want to change is the regular exposure...unless what you are testing is bed adhesion

White absorbs ok so you can probably try 8 sec or so without losing detail to be safe. 5 might be a little soft on some features and you start losing them on the FEP

Ben Johnston I used 6 seconds in the clear resin at that height, and the details came out great. Would the white require longer curing than the clear?

You can more safely cook the white a bit longer because the light doesn't bleed through it like it does the clear resins.

LCD replacement. Used to be cheap...now not so. Amazon usually have them

Have you tried to check if the cable is loose/needs to be seated better?

Richard Humble thanks, I shall have a look.

Jayson Jacob Warren good point I haven't checked as I haven't moved the printer so didn't think that would be the cause of it. I shall double check anyway in case, thanks ?

i'm just going through the same thing - 3d jake have them instock and 4 day delivery for £55 - damn expensive in my view but seems to be the only option

Richard Webb I ordered this one which arrived this pm. I just need to watch a couple of videos now to figure out how to install.

thats different to the photon S screen it uses and LS055R1SX03 ( not SX04 ) the wire is different . not sure if anything else is different - but it will be interesting if it works. keep me informed please

just found the item and watched the video in the comments - BUGGER ! it comes with an adapter from v04 to v03 !.. please do let me know how it goes for you and I'll order one in as a spare !

So I’m curious, whats the likelihood that a screen cable would get detached if printer is not moved?

I mean to me based on the OPs statement that he’s had it for about a year, i would have instinctively said his screen was going bad. At a year old I’ve heard of people having to change screens after maybe 6 months.

Richard Webb uhm, I fiddled with the lcd screen on my photon s, I pried it to see if I can easily lift it out, it was quite hard and I couldn't manage it. I then decided to test the lcd again and oddly it seems to be fine, checked it a few times by using the exposure test and it's fine. Will try a print tomorrow and see. No idea why it is suddenly okay?!

I saw a number of posts saying that, and also that it started doing again after a short time. But fingers crossed for you. I found the easiest way to get the screen out was to push it up from the bottom, but there is a lot of dismantling to do that

Gary Slovinsky I double checked, I actually got the printer mid December 2019 so 3 months of heavy use. However my lcd screen appears to be okay at the moment, re-tested it after I tried to pry the screen off without success.

Patrick Harland if your screen appears fine now. Is it possible it was just a bad slice?? I’ve been known to get that on rare occasions with a FDM printer.

Wish I could give you advice on screen removal, I’m still on my original screen. I think I’ve heard it’s held in place w/double sided tape.

Mine has just arrived from 3djake. It is an 04 screen with the little adapter already attached !! Feel like ive been scammed !!!

Richard Webb and amazon have sold out of the one I bought heh

Yep. Did the fail print fall into the screen?

try unplug the power leave the machine off for 10 mins then power up again check screen. if fail check the cable connectors. try firmware update for the machine you have if its an old photon. then try the epax update. if you are using the photon-s or the new photon. then head to the website and update the firmware there.

Some resin leaked onto the screen and I scraped it off. It's a Photon S and has the latest official firmware on it. Do you think the EPax one would help?

nah epax is for the original classic its a dif mb

sounds like you pressed to hard to remove the resin. so yea screen might be dead. :(

Aye I really went for it with the plastic scraper :D

I use a combination of Chitubox "auto-supports" and then a thorough examination of islands and manually-placed supports. Then the Photon File Validator

I like prusa because I don't have time to muck about for an hour with each model.

I did have to beef up the default settings ever so slightly, and I always add a few supports manually in areas that I know will need it (usually leading edges), but I don't have the time or patience to place them all manually.
That being said, I think you do ultimately achieve better results placing them manually.

I do Prusa for auto-orientation and supports, then open in Chitubox and manually place supports where needed.

Do you do a z-lift of 0 in chitu then? It would be nice to have access to some heavy supports...

Prusa auto have worked perfectly for me IF, you also run the thing through photon validator and manually fix any islands

Yeah zero z-lift. I find that generally Prusa auto-supports do a good job at placing enough supports to handle the load of the model, so I just find any stray islands and put light supports where needed.

Omar Silva this is also what I do. Works great.

a healthy mix of auto with the file validator to get what auto missed is my approach. very few failures.