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Hi
Which stl is it I want to make one for my oldest

Keith Douglas Ahlstrom https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4038181

Please please please tilt it. The very bottom of the base is uneven and my first attempt failed because of that

I made this for my mom, your's looks great! I wish I had thought of doing that thing with the eyes.

Thanks

Mika Gruszka thanks

William Tatum I used a white gel pen for the shines on the eyes. XD it's my go to for adding shinies and it turns out it works on craft paint

https://monocure3d.com.au/product....../resinaway-cleaner/

Use methylated spirits, just as good

Water washable is also great, switched about two months ago. Really glad I did. It costs a bit more but you save that on IPA.

Zachary Wicks what?

Ky Lane that's a bit more expensive than I can afford right now

Ethanol

Braad Harild what are you doing with the water though? That's the problem with that stuff

Denatured works a treat

Denatured alcohol works well and can be readily found

The left can (acetone works in a pinch but it’s much more aggressive so you need to be quick)

Methylated spirits?

Stefan Giudici I use a ultrasonic cleaner, once it get to murky I pour it into a cookie sheet to make it shallow and hit it with a UV light over night. Then pour the water into a empty resin container to do a larger evaporate/bank in the sun session in the summer. I am in Canada so I have to wait for a nice day.

Stefan Giudici switch it up with Vodka?! One for the print! One for me! ?

Methylated spirits or acetone work well, acetone is my fav but it's a bit more pricey than metho

Mika Gruszka Methanol, aka fuel line anti-freeze aka wood alcool.

Ky Lane No, Methylated spirits is Methanol. That's ethanol with a percentage of others (making is "denaturated" aka not safe for human consumption).

Mean Green

Mika Gruszka defiantly get some when you can, it lasts longer then IPA so works out to be better value i have found

Mika Gruszka Denatured alcohol (aka methylated spirits) is 95% ethanol and 5% methanol. You can find it at the hardware store and paint stores very easily and the price is usually very good.

water washable resins....stop using ipa...omg...

No you can't. Used as a cleaner so sold out everywhere. ?

Tried Aceton and ethanol, both works fine

A few resin produces have come out saying they aren't producing water washable resins as it is very irresponsible as a lot of people will just wash uncured resins into water ways. Will it cause harm? Dunno but why risk it. We've fucked up the planet enough

The MSDS on those say they're extremely toxic to aquatic life

Wow someone actually responsibly taking care of that. I'm impressed

Me Clean!!!

Mr*

Meths works fantastically well for cleaning resin!

Mean green is better

Regan Fairbanks Water washable is way easier to deal with and to dispose of responsibly imo. Won’t be going back to anything that requires chemical cleanup.

Francis X Benz I've seen good and bad about that. What resins have you is it with successfully?

Mika Gruszka I used dragon resin and wanhao resin. Have had nothing but good results

How much is in the sample size?

What resins do you use with mean green? I've heard good and bad about it

I'll have to look in the store some time soon

Mika Gruszka 500ml inthink.

Ok thanks. I'll keep that in mind for when I can afford it

Stefan Giudici how is it a problem, uv cure it, filter and reuse, eventually you can still let it evaporate or put in bottle and take it to disposal place. Best thing ever no more alcohol use, which is expensive, stinks and comes with it's own issues.

Just use liquid dishwash or degreaser

and on top of that ebay resin stores do not ship to europe anymore :/

this works just as good as IPA when your in a Jam

Denatured works fine

Has anyone tried ethanol to clean SLA prints yet?

I can change it for a used car (?

yes, can do its job. ipa is better tho.

Acetone is very good too

Daniel Kottmair if you can get pure ethanol 96% it does a very good job

This stuff works a treat!!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/....../ref=mp_s_a_1_4......

I got Ethanol 96% based which has worked wonders, have not seen any issues with it, and there is plenty of it., you can also make handsantizer with it if you need. WHO released an how-to

I am using mr clean

Stefan Giudici all the vodka is gone here, except top shelf, it’s be rough to dunk a print in kettle one.

Everclear? Or is that too strong?

Back on my filament printer, using up all the end rolls I had stashed cause they were to short for a full print.

Agree with Simon Walker I use Elbow Grease

Just use degreaser

Mika Gruszka saraya tech

THIS! And those exact brands should be on shelves in your local Home Depot in the paint department. With the other paint thinners.
Bonus : They aren't medical so for the most part aren't being panic bought. I picked up a gallon of the denatured alcohol last week.

David Johnson doesn't have to be drinkable ethanol, most places have ethanol fuel for heaters, they add something to make it undrinkable so it's not for human consumption or taxed as drinkable alcohol

Katherine Hubis def not too strong, pure ethanol is a great cleaner and is recommended by a lot of printer and resin companies because it's slightly safer than ipa. Can't say I've ever used drinkable ethanol but heating ethanol is basically 99% ethanol so if anything everclear is likely less strong than that

Denachered alcohol works just as well

Acetone works great for me

I got a couple gallons a couple months ago. Part of me thought about donating it, but I only keep anhydrous on hand and without proper dilution it doesn't disinfect well and I don't trust anyone off the street to know/understand/believe that.

Regan Fairbanks my local Lowe’s has 10 cans of denatured alcohol on the shelf. And that’s as much as the shelf holds. IDK if they had more in the back. I only bought 1 can because it was pricey when compared to what I pay for IPA.

Ive got a big can of denatured alcohol. Dont know if thats in short supply too

I’ve only got my hands on some 70% IPA. So I do primary cleaning with Mean Green. Then I rinse with water, then a final real wash in the IPA.

Gotta have FDM backup

Kameron Michael Beal but but but... Money. XD

Check your local liquor store. Grain alcohol / everclear is 190 proof. 95% alcohol which is better then anything you can get at a drug store. About $20 for a big 1.5 to 2 liter bottle.

There are 6 quarts of it in my medicine cabinet :P

use water washable resin now!

You can often find it in makeup stores that specialize in costume and film makeup. Since those types of makeup palettes are often alchohol based, they keep jugs of 99%.

use acetone

use acetine carefully . cleans parts faster but can damage them if you leave unattend

Alex Alameda denatured alcohol is basically the same thing and a lot cheaper, no alcohol tax.

I've tried a few of the alternatives (Mean Green, Simple Green, etc.) and I do not like it at all. I too miss IPA. I'll try the acetone and DA and see how that goes. As for the water washable...I use some resin because of their physical properties and need that flexibility.

Ray Sears Denatured hasn't been cleaned out yet. I work at a hardware store and even though I locked myself inside a week before everything went nuts I did go there to grab my check Friday and they still had plenty. Don't know for how long as the resources to make it are probably going to IPA now so grab what you can when you see it.

same, slowing down with printing my self due to that and well I am now painting the hundreds of miniatures I have bought and the few I have printed

Acetone, works for me

You double it. It's displaying 2x each number there when printing the test card, so if 7 looks best it's because it was exposed for 14 seconds.

Stefan Giudici oh wow. So I need to use 14 seconds for my clear resin?

I didn't look at your test card, you need to use 2x whatever the best looking number is tho. Good clear resins aren't very fast. Fast clear resins yellow a lot more

Ok. I'll try 14 seconds and do some quick prints (by quick I mean a few hours. Lol)

I’ve never really found this test matches up with what I end up running for clear. Monocure clear runs beautifully at 9s for a .04 layer yet the exposure test told me 14s...I’d strongly recommend running a calibration model and see where your settings look best with that: here the 12s is already showing overexposed whereas the 9 is crisp and clear...and Anycubic yellows fast compared to the Monocure

Scott Pavlich can I have a link to this calibration model? I'm using Elgoo translucent

https://www.dl.dropboxusercontent.com/....../MonoMatri......

Thank you

Mika Gruszka It takes under 45min to run at .04, chose an exposure (I only do like 3 bottom layers, just enough so it sticks) then keep dropping your exposure watching closely the features...you’ll know you gone too low it that bridge area above the word Monocure shows delamination like this one

So I should reprint this with lower exposure each time?

Mika Gruszka Yep. But the nice thing is once you’ve done it unless you change resins you don’t have to do it again. I’ve kinda learned where to start and only have to print 1 or 2. And the only thing you want to change is the regular exposure...unless what you are testing is bed adhesion

Doooooooo ittttttt

I FEEL LIKE EVIL KENEVIL

Qui audet adipiscitur - SAS motto - who dares wins

“Don't fear failure. — Not failure, but low aim, is the crime. In great attempts it is glorious even to fail.” – Bruce Lee

Christopher Fugate that makes me feel more brave

The only thing that could make that cooler is if it's articulated. Please tell me it's articulated.

No guts no glory

T.R. Griffith it is! That's part of the reason I'm so scared to print it! Lol. The stl is called gaboon viper skeleton on thingiverse

If you just heard someone squeal like a little girl, it wasn't me. Please post the results.

Hahaa I would be extremely surprised if it worked.

I feel like it will fail. The segments aren't really connected to each other so you would need to support them at many places

why not split it into multiple parts and just create connection points to it and glue it in with superglue? wouldn't that be safer?

I’d cut it up and print it in different parts

Do it! If you feel like you've got the resin settings dialed in, it would be pretty great if it ended up working in a single piece.

Do it...

Joseph Soneji it's articulated

Mike Vayakornvichit I don't know how to slice yet, but also it's articulated so I don't know if that would work out so well

Nicolas Tsagarides that's what I'm feeling

Lol alright

oh..... articulated.. that's a different monster....... Good luck.

Might be better cutting it into smaller chunks so it can lay flat on bed

Ben Cox I'm trying to figure out how to do a resin test right now. XD I just started printing without testing when I got my printer a month ago, but now I feel like I should probably know what I'm doing.

I’d bet my money you’ll be fine. I’ve printed some wild stuff with overhangs and pointy parts like that

Scott Pavlich but was it articulated? XD

Shawn Atlas probably, but is that the example Evil Kenevil set for us?

James Teagle

Looks good to me! Take a chance and let us know how it came out!

I don't want to be a spoiler, but you should add supports in the lower ribs

There's a lot of fail going to happen there.

Scale it up and print each piece seperate

Cut a piece from the part you're most concerned about and run it by itself as a test piece. I do it all the time for models that look like they need crazy amounts of support

Mika Gruszka Your exposure and clearances need to be dead on, but it can be done: with the exception of the wheels and the extension that slides into the main arm, this one is:the swivel base, the hinged main arm, and the basket, all are articulated joints printed together...and work

Right? XD

Andrea Mainas I did. There are supports on all the beginning islands, it's just hard to see on the image

Dustin Skye so much fail

Chris Cowman didn't you battle against this creature last night?

Colin Hansen Perras every single articulated piece?

Jesus Garcia that's a good idea

Jacob Hocken that looks exactly the same 0_0

Gaboon viper skeleton?

Hope is an S at least. A standard photon may not fail but end like a real wobble

These areas may be of concern. Also your supports look too thin and will likely break.

Split a smal part to.test and try use validator to see if some part need to be suported

Whatever it was, it wasn't strong enough for my barbarian :P

Mika Gruszka would be the best way for perfect results. There are other ways, but this would give you the best prints over all

Mika Gruszka don't necessarily have to scale it

Colin Hansen Perras that sounds very tedious

XD bahaha

Mika Gruszka it's a tedious model :-) honestly, it wouldn't be so bad.

Ok. I'll add some thicker supports.

Yeah scroll through your slices. There are some islands in there

Put in a few medium or even heavy supports in "bendy" spots, or the model *will* detach.. learned this the hard way..

You need somemesiums at least, also, try to spot lowwst point of each section and support it, like Bee pointed with red arrows.

I need to know the resulr

Marko Knezevic I did support every islands I could find, for sure. There are some mediums thrown in there in the chaos but I think I might add more

Mika Gruszka yeah , but once islands are sorted, overhangs must be done. So on each "rib" put one support at very end of it.

why don't you orient it more on its back so all the rips grow up?

also you can segment the head

It would be too small. That's as "on it's back" as it goes. It's completely articulated too so shrinking it more would ruin the articulation

Mika Gruszka ah, nuts. Well good luck!

Rupert Dunn

Well, you start by knowing how much it costs you.

John Aldred I'm brand new to printing and one of my friends wants to commission a print from me. That's why I made this post.

That doesn't change what I said.

Whatever the market demands. Recoup cost and add go from there. You can only charge what people are willing to pay.

Unpainted small baby Groot, $5. Painted, $35. Unpainted Mando helmet, $60. Painted $125. Just a couple examples.

Just my personal examples from my area. Could vary depending on demand as well.

depending on the printer software it will tell you how much material you are using/cost of material.

then tack on a dollar per min for the time to print.

Mike Kimmel Logical approach ?

In the rare instances that I do so, I charge for my actual time... time in the slicer, time setting up, time taking off the build plate, time post processing... I charge 150% for my material cost. I've calculated the cost of my electric and charge 150 % of my printers maximum capacity for the time it runs. I charge for the depreciation of my printer (very subjective). It depends. Most often, the amount of physical time involved will be the largest chunk of the cost. And most people don't want to pay me $20/hr for my time so.... That's why it's rare that I do so.

You still need to know what it costs, because if what it costs you is more than the market is willing to pay, then it's not worth pursuing. :)

John Aldred oh for sure. I would never loose money. Just depends on what your time is worth if you are delivering something painted and finished as well.

First i would factor in how much resin you are going to use. Certain slicers do tell you the volume of the project. So if the project is say 250ml and a liter costs $60 US you need to be charging a min of $15 just to recoup resin costs. Now if the prin t fails and you have to reprint that will cut into your bottom line. So i would suggest you charge 4-5x whatever your resin costs are. That also take into consideration your time of managing the print. Hope that helps.

Some advice would be appreciated

Yup, there's a lot of variables to put into cost. :)

What are the sizes of what your printing in inches and are they hollow?

Well, how much material is used? How much is wasted? Slicer estimates aren't going to account for failed prints, or the extra resin that doesn't get put back in the bottle when you're done. There's the electricity costs (sure, not massive, but they add up), your time to prep the file and set it printing, and then clean up, cure, etc. when it's done.

Only you know your process. You have to figure out all the costs involved in making that print for somebody + your time. That's the bare minimum you need to make to break even. Then you figure out how much you actually want to be paid on top of that. :)

Chris Suess a dollar per minute for something that takes 7 hours would be pretty pricey. Maybe I should figure out an hourly "wage" for my printers hard work

sure figure out what works for you. maybe a dollar per ten minutes... whatever.

Marketer here (but not a seller of prints) - what you think it’s worth to them.

If it’s a mate etc I can see this being more complicated, but I think focusing on the cost of resin etc is a minefield.

Are they also paying a share into your investment in the printer? Etc

If you want to be paid what it’s worth, you need to think what they would pay for the item if it was commercial produced, work from there. If it’s too expensive, you can then negotiate or reject. Ask them what they were thinking the price would be.

With sculpting expertise, investment in the machine, your time, don’t sell yourself short.

Only way to really know what something is worth is to see what the response to the price is, so if going commercial - better to start higher than you think than lower.

I don't know how to tell how much material is used

Bartholomew Isard what slicer can tell me how much material is used?

you could also upload the piece to shapeways and see how much they charge and charge what you feel is good based on that.

Well, it'd be pretty easy to figure out a rough guide. Grab a 10cc syringe. Put it on a scale and zero it out. Fill it with 10cc of resin, what does it weigh?

Now you can work out what 1cc (1ml, same thing) of resin weighs.

Weigh the bottle of resin before you make a print, make a print, pour the excess back into the bottle, weigh it again. What's the weight difference? Now you know how many cc you've used for that print. Compare that to what your slicer estimated it would take.

Then you've got a rough value for creating more accurate estimates in the future.

Mika Gruszka Chitubox can. If you go into the Settings section just above the Slice button, it's in the Resin tab.

"I think focusing on the cost of resin etc is a minefield"

It;'s not focusing. It's standard business practice to calculate your COGs when making and selling a product. You need to know how much something costs you in order to ensure you're even making a profit. :)

Mika Gruszka how much time do u spend, how much is your time worth, how much resin did u use. Filling the vat to the line is abput 125ml

John Aldred well yeah, don’t go beneath cost price? But that’s a given right.

I meant more don’t start going “this cost me X, so X+30%” is not the way to go.

The biggest downside to this (Shapeways, MakeXYZ, PrintAThing, etc) is that those websites are being run from Print Farms and have access to many printers, the "best" software, etc. It's very hard for individuals to be competitive with them in terms of making real overhead. At least from a business perspective. If it's for a friend or a one-off or whatever, that's a bit different I think.

Oh yeah, absolutely. A flat markup is the dumbest way to price it. :)

Mike Kimmel market cost in Australia, u provide a 32mm file to print, cost $17-20 for local 3d printers to print, average resin about 6ml

I think you would be surprised. I recently did this for a client and Shapeways wanted 350 for the print... not counting shipping.

it would have been about a 24 hour print for me, and I pitched them 300.

You'd be surprised how many people running legit businesses don't even know what it costs 'em to do a job, though. I see it all the time in the photography industry. They're barely charging enough to cover their fuel to show up (because they're competing on price), working their asses off 7 days a week, and then wondering why they're making no money and pack in after 6 months. :)

Thanks. I appreciate your feedback.

no problem man

?

Thanks. That's really helpful, both of you! This is stuff I never would have thought of. I'm used to drawing so I only know how to sell my time. XD

Shawn O'Hara oh bless you, this is going to be so helpful.

Mika Gruszka Just wait... I'm doing what almost nobody else will, and that is to give you full access "behind the curtain" as it were. I'm typing it up in my other comment above. Below? Wherever it is.

Mika Gruszka hollow yes, 3 to 4 inches tall. Think I charged $45 for this.

Screw it. I don't really have a dog in this fight, but here is an example of something I would charge were I to sell it.

(Official Disclaimer: I am *NOT* selling this piece, as I am not a merchant for Artisan Guild, I am simply using it as an example and it's already in my slicer)

As you can see from this demon, it will take 8.5hrs to print, cost $.45 in resin using $50/L Siraya Blu. This will have taken me roughly an hour to support and run through photon validator to ensure I catch all the islands. So we already have one hour of my "hands on" time, and 8.5hrs on the printer. Let's see what else we have to work with.....

As you're making prints for yourself, just pay attention to the things you have to do while making them that cost you money. Nitrile gloves (or whatever you prefer to use) are a consumable that has a cost, too (minimal, but, again, all adds up). How of ten do you need to buy new scalpel/craft knife blades/side cutters because they get dull or break? Filters when pouring the excess resin back into the bottle, etc.

Plan for potential future costs, too, like an LCD replacement, or potentially a whole new machine if there's a disaster with yours and you have a bunch of orders waiting - or it's just gettin' old and you want to replace it with a newer/faster/larger/higher resolution model.

The larger multi part models, somewhere around $0.75 per hour plus material cost. This was on prints running close to 100 hours. If they don't like my prices, they can go buy their own printer, or find someone dumb enough to do it for next to nothing. $0.75 per hour is already low for custom work of any sort. Depending on the setup time, and any cleanup, it could be more.

I anxiously await your "behind the scenes" experienced information

Rory Kostman this is a pretty reasonable sounding rate. I just ran some costs with this formula and it comes out as still cheaper than GW minis! Which is what I am roughly aiming for

Depends on what car they drive..

Audi drivers pay the most... Not because their car's more expensive. Just because they're twats. ;)

I charge enough that I don’t resent it as having been a waste of my time, just slightly above the amount I think would be nice to have, while keeping it below what others are charging for similar things, adjusted for the quality I am able to produce.

So lets break this down. This is a copy of an invoice my customers would receive for the above print.

Selecting in the Printer, Filament/Resin, weight of the used resin as told to me by Chitubox in grams, total print time (surprisingly accurate), and how long it will take me to prep, slice, add supports, change resin (if necessary) transfer the file and start the print, take the print off the plate once done, clean the print, remove the supports, and cure the print, I have 74 minutes of my actual time.

As you can see at the top, I have a 150% markup for all my costs. The material, electric and consumables are ACTUAL costs of things I use per print. I literally took my electric bill, and calculated how much this would be. This is the ACTUAL cost of the resin I am using. The alcohol for cleaning the build plate and the print, plus the gloves, scrapers and other consumables... There's a cost to those.

The printer depreciation... that's a hard one to gauge, but I am basing that cost off of running this printer for 1500 total hours. I have no idea what the effective life of the printer is, but with all the people replacing screens, LCDs, etc, I think this is more than a fair cost.

Everything else... Preparation and Post-Processing is the cost for MY time. And I charge $13.20/hr, marked up 150% to give me $20/hr. Believe it or not, 20/hr is just over 40k a year, and in what I would consider a "tech" job, I think that is reasonable given the level of individual knowledge we have to obtain, and level of quality we have to put out. Why should I barely make ends meet for a job that doesn't pay? I know many who see this will disagree with my assessment, and I don't care. I'm not about to debate my choices. This is what I demand for my time, take it or leave it.

So, the suggested price is what the actual cost to make this one print, start to finish costs with me making $20/hr.

I will say that if this was a mass produced item for me to sell, I could easily do away with the preparation cost, as I would only have to do that the FIRST time, and any time after that the work is already done. (bringing the suggested price down to $15.73).

Again, I cannot compete with print farms, or people who have bulk discount rates for resin, better setups than I do, etc. I am one dude, with one printer. And I usually print stuff for my friends for free. I just ask they throw a roll of filament or a bottle of my favorite resin my way now and again. Funny that they're happy to spend 40 bucks on filament or resin, but don't want to pay the same cost strait up for the mini or whatever it is they want/need printed.

Mika Gruszka LOL "Experience." My information is to be taken with a whole shaker of salt and is worth at most, $.02.

I try to get $20-$25 per build plate run, depending on complexity. Gotten a decent little gig going with friends and family at that rate. This is mostly for a pile of copies of the same thing, so my time for making supports is baked into the $25. This is my figure for pre-existing 3d models. If I have to generate the model as well, then I throw an estimate of hours x $10/hr on top for the client as a line item design fee.

Mike Kimmel $45 for the print incl paint? That's a steal for how nice that paint job is.

Back when I started fdm printing people were simply amazed at what could be done. They were literally willing to give what ever. Most of the time I got offered 50-100$ for even the smallest print. Things a have changed a bit. The world is a lil more fa miliar with 3d printing. Most people know some one that has a printer. Resin printing is a bit more detailed. And has that wow factor. Functional parts require more expensive resins. So account for that. Detailed parts static model parts require more design time. Factor that. Factor in your knowledge of operating the equipment as well. Its hard to give exact numbers. Just dont short your self on time and material cost is number one. Have fun and wow them. Remember someday every home will have a printer that any one can just speak to and get exactly what they want.

I just sold 3 build plate amounts of prints for $120.

Mika Gruszka the slicer will give you an estimate of the amount needed for a successful print. I've not done much printing but I've been in manufacturing for a long time. Take your material cost ie: slicer estimate and triple it. That gives you room fo r error. Then you add the time estimate to your shop rate which is overhead + profit goal divided by working hours. That's how much you charge for machine time. Modeling time is where my knowledge breaks down. Programs in a machine shop are easy to do. Printers have an aspect of complexity that I haven't dealt with financially. It's all a part of the learning curve.

Add the cost of producing it, the ipa you waste, the globes you wear, and the electricity you can add the machine time as the use of the electric motor and the fep film change every...100 prints (just an example) and the most important thing, the utility you want to win.

John Aldred that's why I gave up my plan to be photographer. It's bullshit, that you don't need to compete with cheap guys. Yes you do. I consider my skills far better than fighting for clients with ridiculous pricing.

A litre bottle of resin costs about £35. In the slicer i tell it that its £300 per litre then use the suggested cost from the slicer

Richard Webb what slicer do you use?

Mika Gruszka chitubox and lychee

#1 rule is you always charge based on what it’s worth to the customer

Jarin Udom there should also be a second rule that says that you at least charge for the material cost and your time.

Check out CNC kitchen on YouTube. He has created a spreadsheet which will guide you in a realistic price. Breaks down all your costs and shows what you really should be charging.

My record is 8 build plates of 2.5 hours each for €500. That was nice.

No you don't, you're just targeting the wrong clients.

I have a friend who shoots weddings. He only takes on 16 clients a year. His prices *start* at £6,500. He doesn't compete on price.

I've never competed on price, either. My own clients aren't looking for the cheapest possible photographer. Their thought is "If they're that cheap, how good can they be?"

Is the guy looking to buy a Ferrari even considering a Fiat? :)

Your work is good (I checked it out). So, stop being a Ferrari charging Fiat prices. All it will attract is Fiat customers. Look for the clients who want to go fast and are willing to pay for it. :)

Andrew Rosenthal sometimes I think undersell, but as long as I’m not losing money and I’m having fun. ??‍♂️ painted up these guys for my wife’s coworker for $100. Printed this on my ender 3 before I had the photon.