Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Just got my printer. Started it up following directions an the exposure area looks like this. Not an expert here but this doesn’t look right. What do you think?

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Chitubox version 1.6.2 is now out, hopefully it fixes some bugs people had with 1.6.1

Got the patch notes now:

V1.6.2

1. Added in the machine list

CREALITY LD-002R

Phrozen Shuffle Lite

Phrozen Shuffle 4K

Phrozen Sonic

Phrozen Transform

2. Added compatibility for 2K, 4K screen display

3. Added setting for offset of build area

4. Added separate export and reset function of resin parameters

5. Added Spanish manual

6. Optimized the function of editing support

7. Fixed compatibility with Intel (R) HD Graphics 3000 graphics cards

8. Fixed German translation

9. Fixed the bug that some graphics cards introduced in the previous version cannot display the model

10. Fixed the bug that data will be wrong after importing anti-aliasing cbddlp format

11. Fixed the bug that printing is still solid after hollowing out in svgx format

12. Fixed the bug that the plugin cannot be used to export files normally after double-clicking stl to open the software

13. Other

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Need some help again guys having issues.

Talking with anycubic but they are just referring me to the youtube videos they have.

I have check Z wobble and there is none machine is level. Z zero is really good

Print settings are

Layer height 0.03mm
Bottom layers 5 exposure 95sec
Standard exposure 10sec
Off time 3 sec
Lift retract 6mm

I'm having a real issue with the supports having this wobble In it and in turn of it being in my supports it is going through my print since i print on a twin axis angle. Any help would be amazing as I'm almost tempted to ask for a refund.

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Is there a slicer software that has better user interface than either Photon Workshop or Chitubox? I am a decades-long user of AutoCad (which I use to generate my STL files), but I cannot utilize either slicer program in the way I'd like. Perhaps AutoCAD has spoiled me (in terms of user interface), or handcuffed me.

I cannot change viewpoint to see supports (i.e., from the bottom). I cannot add supports where they are obviously necessary, and I cannot eliminate supports that appear unnecessary. There's a button for both (add and remove), but I have yet to execute either command successfully.

Lacking a local (US) source of support, I cannot make sense of the programs and I'd welcome recommendations for another, with a local call-in help desk, preferably. Or perhaps, just a call-in customer support number.

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Hi,

I have wird question. Anyone here have iphone X, XS or 11? I search about "alternative" glass replacement and this smartphones have almost exact dimmensions like photon's glass. They are narrower, but maybe glasses for them still can be glued as replacement. Based on LCD documentation and iphone's photos, they shout cover screen perfectly, but there will remain a gap in photon mounting point.

Anyone can check that?

I can buy original glass but... here they are overpriced as hell and delivery from china are 1 month minimum. I need replacement ASAP :P

And second question, how thick are photon's tempered glass?

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Okay guys, need some help dismantling the photon.
Without going to the little details, resin is spilled in the inside of the printer, it didn't get to the screen because the resin vat was still on top, so I cleaned it with a paper towel and alcohol (not excessive amount). But the cynicism in me told me that resin got to the interior parts, and I was right, now there's some resin on the side walls of where the electronic stuff is, some resin on some cords, but as far as I could see, nothing on the motherboard.
Now how should I go about cleaning it? Dismantling it? If so is there a tutorial somewhere where there's step by step direction to how to do it? Or does any cubic cover that kind of damage? I mean I tested if it turns on (yes if electronics get wet you usually want to wait until you know it's completely dry before you even try to turn it in) and it does turn on, the LCD seems to work fine, like nothing wrong with it but I definitely don't want to print anything until I cleaned the resin.

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Can you print a face from a photo. Getting my printer next week

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I've taken delivery of my epax x1 and here is the first mini I've printed off. Its from the titan forge Patreon,

Any criticism is welcome as I'm still very new, it looks slightly "flabby" in the detail which to me says maybe abit over exposed but I don't know. Using eegloo grey. Next time I'll note my settings to give more info.

Editing with chithubox.

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Modeling question. I'll be printing this on an Epax X1, as a miniature mod ad on for my Chaos Dreadnought.
I know we can print complex things as one piece. However breaking parts up for better and cleaner orientation, and support placement seems like something that make sense.

In the following image (the model is not complete as yet, still missing the monster mouth and damage pass) I want to break off the red pieces and print them separately from the main body. The barrels and sensor will have a recess to plug into, and the pipes will just be glued flush once cleaned.

Am I over thinking it? Trying to get a good print without support nightmares is my concern.

Thanks team.
Edited for clarity.

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I am unsure which path to take. I had to change the few film, and a new resin. I have ran two prints in, both same thing. There is a curved layer that sticks to the fep film, ripping the print off the build plate. I am trying to print the yoda ring. Setting are layer 0.02, 7 sec exposure, 8 bottom layers, 60 sec exposure on bottom layers. Is it the fep film causing the sticking, or my settings?

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